Saas Fee, Switzerland: Season Closeout
Not as well-known as its neighbor, Zermatt, Saas Fee is a good bet for snow in April. Taking advantage of my granddaughter’s Spring vacation, we planned a week’s skiing on one of Europe’s largest glaciers. But make no mistake about it, there are no closeout bargains in Switzerland. A senior discount for the ski pass, is an unknown concept and food at the resort was expensive compared to other venues in the Alps.
But there are advantages to Switzerland. Getting off the plane in Geneva Airport, we hopped on the train to Visp and from there took the bus up to car free Saas Fee. On the way up we were treated to Heidi-like views of traditional Swiss mountain homes and alpine meadows. Arriving at the bus terminal at the entrance to Saas Fee, the owner of the apartment we booked, picked us up
with his electric cart and brought us and our luggage up to the apartment. Remnants of snow could be seen throughout the village, but there was plenty of snow on the mountain and we could ski all the way down to the village at 1,800 meters. Our apartment was advertised as “ski in – ski out,” and this was basically true, although this late in the season we did have to walk a bit as the snow in the village was disappearing on a daily basis.
The configuration of lifts in Saas Fee is unlike most other alpine ski resorts. Three cable cars, take skiers up to the mid-stations where you connect with a underground funicular, which goes all the way up to the top at 3,500 meters. There are only two chair lifts where you can ski the lift line. Most of the skiing is up on the glacier at this time of year and there are T–bars wherever you look. A caveat for senior folk:, access to the cable car lifts and the funicular involves climbing and/or descending stairs while carrying skis and poles. It’s doable, but requires a deep breath and a slow but steady pace.
The skiing at Saas Fee is huge. The off-piste possibilities are almost unlimited and all within the ski area itself. Nearly all the marked runs are classified as “red,” which means advanced intermediate skiers can ski basically everywhere. The skiing is not difficult and the alpine views are spectacular. The pistes were groomed on a daily basis and we enjoyed winter conditions above 2,900 meters, and spring conditions lower down. There are four mountain restaurants including a revolving restaurant at 3,500 with unforgettable views in all directions.
While we were there, we had the opportunity to watch the annual Allalin amateur ski race, which starts at the top and finishes in town. The race course is a downhill course with vertical drop of 1,700 meters. Hundreds of men and women compete; with the fastest young skiers completing the race in 4 minutes plus and the older racers in their 50’s and 60’s getting down in 10 – 12 minutes. On the day after the race, I skied the top half of the piste with my granddaughter, who was into her second week as a skier. The long gentle sloping course was great for both of us as we cruised, each at his/her own pace, from the top down to the restaurant at the mid-station.
We enjoyed the skiing that Switzerland has to offer; the Swiss alpine atmosphere, good skiing conditions even in mid-April, the convenience of the Swiss rail system, the friendly Swiss folks, and of course the fondue, but we closed out the season with no bargains.
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What a wonderful story of your family vacation! I find it rather distressing that you kvetch about your enjoyment per Swiss franc expended. Seems like you got excellent value for your money.
I loved reading your story. It brought back very happy memories when I worked in Sass Fee in 1972/73 and 1973/74. I worked in a hotel as a barmaid then in a restaurant as a waitress. Earned good money and tips, enough for me to travel to other parts of Europe during the summer months. Obviously Saas Fee has changed a lot since my days there, but I do remember how easy it was to get up to the ski slopes if I only had a couple of hours free. My first season there I skied every day for 5 months. The locals called me the crazy kangaroo (I’m Australian). It’s definitely made me think of returning. I’m 75 and still passionate about skiing. This year I spent 2 weeks in Japan and a week in the Dolomites. The Italian trip was simply the best skiing holiday ever. Perfectly groomed intermediate slopes and not crowded. Food on the mountain in the Refugios was wonderful.