Tag Archive for: Evelyn Kanter

How Aspen/ Snowmass/ Highlands is Coping with Covid

A Major US Destination Resort Implements Its Virus Plan. Here’s An Early Report Card.

Line up for the Silver Queen gondola at Aspen. Credit: Evelyn Kanter

The biggest challenge ski/snowboard resorts face this season just may be lunch.

Covid-19 restrictions limit lifts to 50 percent capacity, but indoor dining restrictions are even less.  That means many skiers will not be able to find a place to sit to eat, even if they are brown-bagging PBJ sandwiches.

My recent pre-holiday visit to Aspen/ Snowmass/ Highlands showed compliance to social distancing requirements often did not make sense.

Some water fountains were wrapped in plastic and not available.  At others, the fountain part was shut off but the bottle refill part was operational, and at others, both parts worked fine.  Bathrooms can be immediately adjacent to an entrance door, or require walking through the entire lodge.

“Quonset”-like hut provides a place to go “inside”. Credit: Evelyn Kanter

At Aspen, the large, modern and wonderful Sundeck lodge at the top of the Silver Queen Gondola has added a large Quonset hut for the overflow.  But even that can accommodate only about 30 people at a time.  50-ish in the lodge, 30 in the hut, another 50-ish at outdoor tables – that’s enough for a 10am hot chocolate break, but not for the lunch crowd. 

At Snowmass, Ullrhof also added a large Quonset-like hut, also for only 30 people at a time.  Luckily it has a large outdoor deck area, as does Elk Camp, which has not added a heated hut.   So we’re talking about 100-or-so lunchers at a time at either spot.  That’s just not adequate.

At Highlands, Merry-Go-Round at the top of the main Exhibition lift from the base doesn’t even have an additional hut, which means about 50-ish people at a time inside.

None of the outdoor areas had heaters when I visited in mid-December.  That’s okay for a sunny day, even a cloudy one, with temperatures in the 30s but not for a frosty zero-degree day.

The four-mountain resort has been moving visitors to online touchless ordering, which has accelerated this season.  But it also is spotty.

If you have an Ikon Pass and account, or have the patience to input your credit card information on the resort app, you can pre-order food for a specific time and for pick-up at a special window. The problem is when the restaurant is at its limited capacity, and a burly security guard prevents you from entering, even to pick up the food you ordered online and already paid for online.

Limited capacity inside the “Quonset” hut. Credit: Evelyn Kanter

At Aspen, that meant waiting on line at the take-out bar, while a clearly over-worked solo employee was taking new lunch orders, handing out electronic buzzers to alert when orders were ready, and mixing drinks including Bloody Marys and Margharitas.  Not the most efficient way to handle a line of hungry and thirsty skiers and riders. 

My group waited nearly 20 minutes for our orders, tying up limited tables and chairs.  Our soups, chilis and mac-and-cheese orders were all barely warm at pick-up, but nobody asked for a reheat, which might take another 20 minutes.

And when I traded the buzzer for my lukewarm food, the staffer simply staked it on a spindle, without sanitizing it.  Maybe the stack was sanitized after I went to my table with my food.  Maybe not.

By comparison, at Highlands, I was texted when my order—a grilled cheese sandwich with tomato and bacon—was ready, within five minutes of my requested pick-up time, and it was piping hot. It was the best mid-day meal I had at four lodges on three mountains (I did not ski Buttermilk, so I can’t tell you about lunch or lift lines).

Yes – spotty.  Maybe they’ll fix it during the season. Maybe not.  Maybe it’s better at other mountain resorts.  Maybe not.

From my brief experience, it’s clear that resorts need to expand grab-and-go sandwiches, snacks, bottled drinks and outdoor seating with heaters.  The option of making a meal out of a couple of granola bars, trail mix and chocolate squirreled away in our jacket pockets and consumed while going uphill is okay occasionally, but not as a steady diet.  We’ve all done it to avoid long lift lines.  Now we’ll do it because a chairlift or gondola is the only place we can find to sit down, until après, of course.

As for lift lines, the rule is you can go up with your friends or family, ride alone, or ride with a stranger from the singles line. 

On my pre-holiday trip, lift lines ranged from 20 minutes for the Aspen gondola to ski right into the quad or six-pack. That’s pretty much standard for a non-holiday weekday, when there are normally fewer skiers wrestling for seats.  It seemed to balance out—fewer skiers and riders overall because of the pandemic filling fewer available chairlift and gondola seats.

The primary job of lift attendants this season just may be to remind everybody to cover their mouths and faces. I’m one of those who lowers my neck gator on a nice day to ski with my nose and mouth exposed for easier breathing.  So every time I came into the lift line there was a new additional step of pulling up my neckie.

This season, my hotel requires reservations for the pool, hot tub and gym, to manage social distancing.  That was less an issue than the lack of housekeeping.  At my hotel, staff enters only before check-in, to change the sheets and sanitize everything.  If you request fresh towels or more coffee during your stay, housekeeping leaves a bundle outside your door.   

For me, the issue was this new policy was not mentioned when I made the reservation, no discount was offered for the reduction in service, not even the offer of a few “points” on my loyalty membership program with the hotel brand.  Over the years, several hotel chains have offered courtesy points if you opt to skip a linen change during your stay.   

You can be sure that before my next ski trip anywhere that I ask about the housekeeping policy—if it’s not on the website—and will negotiate for either a small discount or some loyalty membership points.  And so should you.

We skiers and riders always adapt—to the weather, to conditions, to the speed and expertise of those in our group—and adapting to the new reality of Covid-19 rules is no different.

EDITOR NOTE – Pritkin County, where Aspen/ Snowmass/ Highland/ Buttermilk is located, now requires a recent negative Coronavirus test for out-of-state visitors.  Details here on the Pritkin County website

Reminders are everywhere. Credit: Evelyn Kanter

SeniorsSkiing Guide: Jackson Hole—Not For Experts Only

There also are dozens of trails and cirques for the rest of us mere mortals.

Now, that’s a blue cruiser at JH looking delicious. Credit: Jackson Hole

I’ve been skiing here since I was locked into that famous and frustrating  “intermediate plateau” and took a chance on defying Jackson’s reputation for experts only.  Besides, the town sounded like fun, with wooden sidewalks and real cowboys coming into town from the ranches that ring the resort. 

If you’ve never skied trees, this is the place to learn.  The short bursts of glades under the Sweetwater Gondola or Casper chairlift are ideal, because you if you get into trouble, you can bail out to one of the blue or green groomers alongside, or just wave or shout up to a lift rider if your trouble is serious. 

When you get better, head into Moran Woods, in between the Casper or Teton lifts.

I always plan my day to be at the lodge at the bottom of the Casper quad for that mid-morning pit stop, and sometimes for lunch, since it’s always less crowded than the other mid-mountain lodges and restaurants.

The Teton is one of Jackson’s newer lifts, and accesses a network of blue and green cruisers that you can take back non-stop to the base area, down some 3,000 of the resort’s massive 4,129 vertical. The Kemmerer trail off the top is named for Jay Kemmerer, who bought the resort in 1992 and credited with turning it into a world-class destination. 

It’s a fast groomer that links to the Werner cruiser.  That one is named for Buddy Werner, an internationally renowned ski racer and member of the US Olympic ski team, who died trying to outrace an avalanche in the Swiss Alps in 1964. You could do laps here all day. I have.

Werner was the choice of the resort’s original owner to be the first ski school director.  That went instead to Pepi Steigler, who won a gold medal in slalom and a bronze in giant slalom in the 1964 Olympics.  It was the same Olympics in which Jimmy Heuga and Billy Kidd became the first Americans to medal in the slalom, a couple of deep breaths behind Steigler, who ran the Jackson Hole Ski School for more than 40 years before retiring.

But I digress.

Of course, you must take the famous Jackson Hole Tram to the top, and pick your way down Rendezvous Bowl to the groomed trails below. Be sure to do it on a sunny day, unless you want to hear my near-horror story about skiing it in socked in weather.  Jackson Hole often is subject to inversions, when it is bright and sunny at the bottom and socked in up top.  If the tram isn’t busy in the middle of the day, that’s the reason. 

My favorite spot on the mountain is Laramie Bowl, off the Thunder quad. It’s really more a funnel than a bowl, with VW-sized bumps on the right and “regular” bumps on either side of a bail-out groomer.

Jackson Hole is also a great destination for multi-generation winter vacations with the grandkids. The really young ones get to ride to their own dedicated teaching slope in a wagon powered by a snowmobile.  The kids love it, and we grandparents love taking photos of it.

Where you stay in Jackson Hole depends on whether you prefer base area convenience or downtown shopping and restaurants.

JH has prioritized improving the intermediate ski and snowboard experience to give guests a variety of terrain. Here’s a blue blue. Credit: Jackson Hole

Convenience is the Teton Village base area, with hotels, condos and restaurants in all price ranges and amenity levels. Best, I think, are the Four Seasons with heated walkways for no-slip snow-free access, and the Alpenhof, with a true European vibe, one of the first hotels to open when the resort opened in 1965.

Apres ski in the Village centers around the Mangy Moose, named for the dusty taxidermy moose for which it is named. 

Downtown, the premiere place to stay is the Wort Hotel, one of the members of the Historic Hotels of America group, known for its rustic charm and attentive service.

The Blue Lion is known for its elk filets.  Another top dining choice is the Snake River Grill, whose menu identifies the local ranchers and farmers who supplied the lamb, pork or artisanal cheese.

Apres ski downtown means The Cowboy, which features live music and country western dancing in season. This is where I learned to two-step at free Thursday night lessons.  Just keep walking past the saddle-shaped bar stools in the front to the tables dance floor in the back.  The burgers are pretty good here, too.

Locals and any visitors in the know head for The Stagecoach in nearby Wilson, at the base of the Teton Pass, on Sunday nights.  A five-piece band has played here for more than 40 years, including a few of the originals still wielding a banjo or guitar.  Be forewarned that the repertoire is usually sprinkled with a few ditties that could make a sailor blush.

Take an afternoon off the slopes to visit the National Elk Refuge just outside town, where thousands of these majestic creatures spend the winter.  If you time it correctly, you can also visit the National Museum of Wildlife Art on the other side of the road, with its impressive collection of landscape paintings and Remington sculptures.

Jackson Hole is a member of both Ikon Pass and Mountain Collective, neither of which provide discounts for seniors.  If the only place you intend to ski or ride this season is Jackson Hole, the best deal for the 2020/21 season is the Plus Pass, which offers 25 days of lift access for $505.

Click here for Jackson Hole Trail Map

Click here for Jackson Hole Web Cams