West Archives - SeniorsSkiing.com

Utah’s Best Kept Secret Slopes

April 6, 2023/26 Comments/in Other News, West/by Mike Roth

Powder Mtn

We all know there are many options to ski Utah – Snowbird, Alta, Brighton, Solitude, Park City, Snowbasin, Deer Valley. But none can hold a candle to Powder Mountain. Why is this, you might ask?

Powder mountain boasts the largest ski/snowboard area in North America, with 8,464 acres of groomed trails and un-groomed of pure skiing pleasure.

You are at an elevation of 7,500 feet to almost 9,000 feet at the top, and because of the high elevation the mountain produces over 500 inches of light fluffy powder annually. They do boast the greatest snow on earth with no snowmaking.

It’s easy to lose track of what you’re skiing since the area is so vast.

I was amazed that we had skied most of the day and noticed we had only skied 15 runs. Even though there are – literally – miles of downhill options, there are a few lifts. Most are older fixed grip chairs. The vertical ranges from a short 582 feet vertical at the Village lift to 1,609 vertical at Paradise lift, and an impressive 1,268 for the high-speed.

All the lifts service some very good long runs from beginner to expert (they are also open till 9pm on one lift, for night skiing on the Sundown chair).

On one day, I decided to ski only the Hidden Valley hi-speed lift. From 9am to 3pm, I skied 25 runs and 29,000 vertical feet. That was a max for me, and I wasn’t tired from it because I found the “zone”.

Limiting Guests

Something important to mention is that Powder Mountain limits the number of skiers to 1,500 season pass holders plus day-trippers. So, even on a busy weekend you can expect about 2,200 to 2,500 skiers on 8,500 acres. That’s 3.5 acres plus or minus for each skier.

It’s also important to note that Powder Mountain offers FREE skiing to anybody 75+, which makes it a popular destination for senior skiers and riders – and there are lots of us. The 70+ Ski Club includes a day at Powder Mountain in its annual Utah trip.

There is a reservation system, so if you don’t want to be blocked out and you are purchasing a daily ticket, do it ahead of time online. Also for 75+ senior skiers, who need to reserve online, not at the ticket window.

The limits on daily skiers and riders meant that it was few and far between that I was passed by another downhiller. As you look up a slope from any chair you might see a dozen people on any given slope.

So, safety wise, it was a delight. As a matter of fact, at least eight of about 50 who passed me on the entire week of skiing made announcements of “on your left” or “on your right”. When was the last time you heard that on a crowded slope? Utah, or anywhere else?

Powder Mountain is a throwback to skiing in the 60’s and 70’s, with a basic and unpretentious lodge, compared to some other resorts in the west.

Many of the skiers/riders here are diehards, with about 45% locals and the rest of 55% from out of town.

For the adventurous, there is also the opportunity to go Cat Skiing on a per ride basis. Next season – 2023/34 – Powder Mountain plans to provide full day cat skiing with the strong possibility of having an additional 20,000 acres beyond what they already have.

As the area expands, they are trying very hard to keep the current “down to earth” feel of the area. Everyone from lift attendants to mountain hosts, to all the staff, are very friendly and cheerful.

And chairlift conversations were equally friendly and cheerful, including tips on where to stay nearby, since there is no base area lodging. On one lift ride I was offered a prayer session!

Season Passes and Other Tips

Powder Mountain season passes are hard to come by. There’s a waiting list of about 6,000 people and currently 3,000 pass holders, do don’t hold your breath. I maintain mine, which I received five years ago, so I don’t have to worry about getting a reservation.

If you are going for a longer period, buy a five-pack early in the season, which can be used on a choice of days during the season.

The area’s goal is to provide the best snow conditions to serious skiers and riders, which it is able to do by limiting the number of downhillers on any day.

You will never see a long lift line here, as you might find at other areas on weekends, especially on a powder day. The longest lift line I encountered in a week here was just three minutes long on a weekend day when they had reached the max number of skiers for the day. Mostly, I just skied right up to the lift with just a one or two chair wait for the few people in front of me.

What a delight it is to ski Powder Mountain. I’m already planning my trip for next year………

Seeking the Snow in Tahoe

February 20, 2023/6 Comments/in Other News, West/by Mike Roth

View of Lake Tahoe (credit M. Roth)

After an early start to the ski season here in the East that I would describe as less than stellar, I went west, to Reno, Nevada to seek better conditions. My goal was the smaller ski areas within a short drive from Reno, not the larger and well-known ones on the side of Lake Tahoe in California.

Our the first day driving up the Mount Rose Highway, there were snowbanks as high as that 8’-0” high as we increased in elevation – a very encouraging sign of things to come.

The smaller ski areas in the Reno area are certainly not the magnitude of Heavenly or Kirkwood, Northstar or Palisades Tahoe. But since you can ski just one trail at a time, and these areas have the elevation to have and keep snow and they are much bigger than one would expect, they stack up well compared to an eastern“small area”.

Mount Rose Ski area, which you can see the slides from Reno, is the largest of the three areas we visited, with 2,000 feet of elevation and starting at 8,250 ft. Beautiful views of the Reno Valley, of course continual blue bird skies, without a cloud in site. There was plenty of snow on the mountain and the trails were groomed perfectly.

The surfaces at times were very much like Eastern skiing from groomed corduroy and as the day progressed some hard packed showed up. Now if the temperature was above 32 degrees, all that hard pack snow would have been soft packed powder because there was a very deep base below of 200-300 inches of snow.

In fact, one of the skiers with us, who was from California, commented that us easterners must love these conditions (which although he didn’t come out directly saying it, I don’t think he liked the surface). For me, wherever I can get on the snow, I am happy with the surface, unless of course it is boilerplate and to be honest , I have not encountered that in a very long time. Ski areas have made great advances in snow making and grooming to provide a good skiing surface most of the time.

Diamond Peak, just 27 miles from Reno, also the way to Lake Tahoe, offers great views of the lake as you ski down that you must stop and take a photo. This area is smaller than Mount Rose with the base at 6,700 feet and topping out at 8,540, with 1,500 feet of vertical and an average annual snowfall 300 plus inches.

There are 28 trails marked and plenty of glades, with 655 acres of skiing. Great terrain to ski. Don’t forget to checkout their senior pass rates ($225 for years 70-79, Free 80+, and no blackout dates).

The third area, which was the smallest but not the least important, was Sky Tavern, a strange name for a ski area but with a history that ages way back into the late 50’s. The area probably has the most meaning for skiing and promotion of skiing with the youth of the Reno Valley. This area is the oldest and largest non-profit ski and snowboard learning area.

Owned by the City of Reno, this ski area is devoted to teaching and training the city’s youth who want to learn to ski as well as aspire to skiing as a high school / college / olympic goals. The area staff is devoted) to this project. Founder Marcie Herz established the program in 1948, and her remaining family is still involved with the area.

This area’s learning and training staff can be compared with programs at Stratton Mountain School and other eastern ski schools and high school programs which don’t spend pots of money to train their children to become aspiring ski athletes.

Sky Tavern has 7,583 feet of base and 8,238 at the top, with about 800 feet in elevation, so they receive plenty of snow due to the high base elevation. On the weekends you can expect lots of training and families participating in this unique venue. They train in ski racing, terrain parks, aerials, and the park is striving to be a year-round training facility.

While staying in Reno, there are plenty of venues with a reasonable nightly cost as compared to staying on a mountain. We stayed at Circus Circus Hotel and Casino which gets you plenty to eat and play after skiing.

Rentals were also as easy as 1, 2, 3, at the base of the Mount Rose Highway, at Blue Zone Sports. The ski’s we rented were excellent and the staff were more than accommodating. You can get all your skiing gear at a one-stop rental/purchase shop.

I certainly recommend skiing these areas in lieu of the big boys on the other side of the highway.

What’s New for the 2022/2023 Season – Idaho Edition

November 9, 2022/7 Comments/in Other News, West/by Evelyn Kanter

With the La Niña weather pattern developing thousands of miles away in the Pacific Ocean for the third consecutive winter, the Northwest should expect a cold, wet winter with heavy mountain snow. That means another great ski and snowboard season in Idaho.

It’s not just the snow – for the first time in history, SKI Magazine named three Ski Idaho destinations to its list of the top 30 ski resorts in the West, and two have been nominated as part of USA Today’s “10Best”list.

So here’s all that’s new this season in Idaho, by region.

Northern Idaho

Lookout Pass Ski & Recreation Area – In northern Idaho, near the historic town of Wallace and straddling the Idaho-Montana border and the Mountain and Pacific time zones, this multi-use area opens highly anticipated Eagle Peak Expansion this winter, with a new fixed-grip quad. It adds 500 acres of new terrain, nearly doubles the resort’s footprint to 1,023 skiable acres and adds 14 named runs, raising its total to 52 trails. With a summit elevation of 6,150 feet, Eagle Peak offers 1,650 feet of total vertical — 500 feet more than the original Lookout Pass summit. The new chair stretches just under a mile at 5,640 feet and can move at least 1,500 people uphill per hour.

Eagle Peak will deliver more and drier snow than Lookout’s already snowy reputation thanks to the 500 feet in elevation gain. Lookout Pass also regraded its Success beginner learning terrain to offer a more consistent pitch ideal for learning to ski and snowboard. It upgraded its trail cameras to streaming video, and also improvements to the main lodge, rentals and additional parking.

Schweitzer – near Sandpoint, Idaho’s northernmost ski resort, skiers and riders will enjoy better access to the tree skiing and long groomers in The Outback Bowl thanks to 14 new chairs on the six-pack Stella. This will boost total uphill capacity on the lift by 25 percent, allowing it to carry 600 additional riders per hour. The resort also has expanded its children’s center — a fully licensed childcare facility serving guests ages 4 months to 6 years old – with age-appropriate indoor and outdoor programming.

Schweitzer also opens its new spa, Cambium, in the village in a new building adjacent to Selkirk Lodge. The 3,600-square-foot retreat includes a relaxation with outstanding mountain views. Schweitzer’s boutique, 31-room hotel, Humbird, which opened in February, will officially reach completion with the new 12-person rooftop hot tub. Construction continues on Schweitzer’s new $22 million employee-housing project in Ponderay, with 84 apartments and a full-service daycare facility for employees with young children.

Silver Mountain Resort – South of the Border terrain is now within the borders, with the destination expanding its boundaries to include the popular pow stash. Off Chair 2 to left of Skyway Ridge just past Sunrise, SOB is naturally gladed, holds tremendous powder, and now boasts a new marked trail graded to get skiers and boarders back to the lift. The resort, in the historic North Idaho mining town of Kellogg, also opens the new Jackass Snack Shack at Midway Chair 4. It is on the original site of the ski lodge back when the mountain was named Jackass Ski Bowl in honor of Bill the $12 Million Burro, who accidentally assisted in founding the Bunker Hill Mine underneath Silver Mountain. The structure will have a restroom.

North Central Idaho

The three destinations encircling the Camas Prairie — Bald Mountain Ski Area near Pierce, Cottonwood Butte Ski Area near Cottonwood, and Snowhaven Ski & Tubing Area near Grangeville — have not announced any upgrades for the 2022-23 ski season beyond usual maintenance and upkeep. They offer throwback experiences where it’s all about snow riding, family, and happy vibes with adult lift tickets costing only $20.

Central Idaho

Renowned for its glade skiing, Lost Trail Ski Area on the Idaho-Montana border between Salmon and Missoula has thinned more than 80 acres of its intermediate and expert tree-skiing terrain served by Chair 2 and Chair 4. It also completed micro grooming on its beginner and intermediate runs to help ensure an early opening.

Three miles west of Hailey, Rotarun Ski Area heads into its 74th ski season with key infrastructure improvements including new snowmaking that supports early and late-season programming. It also celebrates winter sports and mountain-town culture with free public skiing under the lights on Wednesday evenings.

For the third consecutive year, SKI Magazine named Sun Valley Resort — the birthplace of the chairlift and American’s first destination resort — the top ski resort in North America in its 2022 Annual Resort Guide. Sun Valley ranked no. 1 in the West for overall satisfaction, lifts, dining, apres and nightlife, family-friendly, and local flavor.

The resort is also a leader in sustainability, with the Bald Mountain Stewardship Project to improve forest health, reduce fuels and associated fire risk, and preserve the recreational experience on and around Bald Mountain. As a result, the resort will open up 79 acres of new gladed terrain in the Warm Springs area in advance of two new lifts being constructed this summer — including a six-pack chair — slated to open next season. Sun Valley also hosts the Alpine Skiing National Championships for the 2022-23 and 2023-24 seasons.

Southwest Idaho

Bogus Basin Mountain Recreation Area – Near Boise, Idaho’s capital city, installed additional chairs on the Morning Star and Superior Express lifts, which will increase uphill capacity on those lifts by 30 percent. There also are two new trails — Independence and Blackbird – with 11 acres of additional terrain. Blue and black runs, respectively, the new trails return riders from the backside of the mountain to the frontside. The nonprofit ski area also expanded night-skiing terrain by 15 acres, lighting the Sunbeam and Superior runs off the Superior Express lift, bringing the number of lit trails to 21.

Several beginner runs and cat tracks have been widened and improved, including Buttercup Cat Track, Shamrock, Sleepy Holly, and Sunshine has been regraded to improve learning progression. New and extended snowshoe trails have doubled the distance of mapped snowshoe trails, and Bogus Basin will offer regularly guided and special-themed snowshoe tours. It is also introducing RFID ticketing technology for hands-free access to lifts. It also paved the main parking lot and added 50 new paved parking spots.

Brundage Mountain Resort – Between McCall and New Meadows, the resort added a 2,800-square-foot ski and bike patrol first-aid facility. This is the final season for nostalgia-minded visitors to ride the Centennial Triple Chair, a fixed-grip lift installed in 1990. A new Doppelmayr CTEC high-speed detachable quad will debut in its place next winter, cutting ride time from 14 minutes to 6 minutes and offering two high-speed quads on the front side of the mountain. The resort also purchased and transformed a historic building in New Meadows into its newest employee-housing facility.

Just outside McCall, the Little Ski Hill has lit a third trail, Race Run, and added more lights to the base area and lodge face. The Payette Lakes Ski Club will finish lighting the ski area’s terrain park next summer. Only the top quarter of the terrain park is currently lit.

The après ski scene at Tamarack Resort near Donnelly gets a boost with the opening of Seven Devils Tap House. Located next to The Village’s grand staircase, the 5,000-square-foot restaurant and bar is large enough for more than 300 guests with indoor seating, a mezzanine for more intimate dining, and covered and uncovered outdoor seating overlooking the snow front and West Mountain.

Save time and money by pre-purchasing day tickets with 24-hour advance online purchase — only $55 for midweek and $75 weekend tickets — and through Tamarack’s expanded system of ticket-pickup kiosks and automated ticket-scanning lift gates. New features include RFID-enabled snow-front ski check and heated seasonal lockers along with paid seasonal access to prime ski-in, ski-out parking via RFID gates. SOUTHERN IDAHO

Although Magic Mountain Ski Resort near Kimberly has not announced any major upgrades for skiers and snowboarders this winter, it is promoting a new Kosmik Tubing experience on Friday and Saturday evenings. Private group bookings are available on those evenings and other nights, and weekday afternoon group tubing will be available on a limited basis by reservation only. The mountain’s Saturday and Sunday daylight tubing will continue as normal.

Pomerelle Mountain Resort near Albion has upgraded grooming with new PistenBully 400 Park Pro groomers. The rental shop sports a new fleet of ski and snowboard gear from Rossignol and Burton, respectively.

New adventures and an improved on-mountain experience will greet guests at Soldier Mountain, near Fairfield. The tubing hill which opened last winter returns, plus key runs at the top of Chair 2 have been cleared of brush, which will allow the snow to stick better and enable the resort to open trails earlier and keep them open longer. In addition, Soldier Mountain deployed three SNAPD action cameras — one at the top of the magic carpet, one as skiers and riders unload Chair 1, and a third near the top of Chair 2 with a picturesque mountain backdrop.

The camera systems are designed to work like those at amusement parks that automatically capture guests as they pass by. They leverage RFID technology to identify guests and allows them to access their pictures online or via a smartphone app. SNAPD day passes at Solder Mountain will cost $10 and a SNAPD season pass will run $25. Soldier Mountain is already booking seats on the snowcat for its renowned backcountry experiences

Eastern Idaho

Grand Targhee Resort — which lies four miles across the border in “Wydaho”, across the Teton Pass from Jackson Hole, and affiliates with Ski Idaho because the only way to reach it is through Driggs, Idaho debuts the brand-new Colter Lift on Peaked Mountain. The new lift can transport up to 2,000 people per hour, gain 1,815 vertical feet in just over 5 minutes, and provide 30 percent more skiing and riding with the addition of the new terrain on Peaked Mountain. These 600 acres used to be accessible only via snowcat bootpacking when the gates were open. Now, skiers and riders can access varying types of terrain, including awesome tree skiing and steep pitches.

This is the first major terrain expansion at Grand Targhee since 2001, when it opened the Sacajawea lift. Grand Targhee also has renovated the slopeside Teewinot Lodge, and is introducing RFID ticketing technology to allow guests to access lifts hands-free via smart gates.

Kelly Canyon Ski Resort near Ririe as added new snowmaking and upgraded its trail lighting system. The new owners also have upgraded the lodge and transformed its cafeteria into the Half Cab Grill with an expanded menu.

Pebble Creek Ski Area, near Inkom has replaced the haul rope on the Skyline Lift and gave the rental shop a facelift.

Noteworthy Milestones

Amid all these improvements, Ski Idaho, which counts 19 ski areas among its member destinations, is celebrating its 40th anniversary, Bogus Basin is turning 80, Soldier Mountain is turning 75, and Silver Mountain is turning 55 this season.

Multi-Resort Passes

Sun Valley has joined Schweitzer as partners with the IKON Pass.

The Indy Pass has a new, seventh Ski Idaho member with Kelly Canyon joining Brundage, Lost Trail, Pomerelle, Silver Mountain, Soldier Mountain, and Tamarack.

Grand Targhee and Sun Valley are members of the Mountain Collective.

Lost Trail joins Bogus Basin and Silver Mountain as partners in the Powder Alliance.

Sun Valley offers a Sun & Snow Pass with Snowbasin in Huntsville, Utah, that allows up to three days at each resort.

About Ski Idaho

Founded in 1982, the Idaho Ski Areas Association, a.k.a. Ski Idaho, is a nonprofit association funded in part by the Idaho Travel Council via the state’s 2 percent lodging tax paid by travelers and collected by hotel, motel, private campground, and vacation rentals owners.

Boasting 29,000 feet of vertical spanning more than 21,000 acres, Idaho is home to America’s first destination ski resort, the birthplace of the chairlift, and often considered the soul of skiing. Its 19 family friendly alpine ski areas offer trails and backcountry for skiers and snowboarders of all ages and skill levels, breathtaking views, hundreds of inches of fresh powder, affordable passes, and short lift lines. Many Ski Idaho destinations open for the summer season, as well, to provide lift-served mountain biking, scenic chairlift rides, hiking and trail running, disc golf, horseback riding, and more.

Visit skiidaho.us for more details.

What’s your favorite destination in Idaho? We love your comments

What’s New for the 2022/23 Season – Western Edition

October 13, 2022/19 Comments/in Destinations, Home Top Box 3, West/by Evelyn Kanter

Photo Credit: Praxis Skis

As always, resorts were busy over the summer replacing lifts and improving or adding terrain.

Here’s a quick rundown to whet your appetite of what’s new and noteworthy in several states West of the Mississippi.

In alphabetical order, by state –

California

Palisades Tahoe – For a second season under its new name, there’s a brand new Base-to-Base gondola. It connects the two valleys and makes the former Squaw Valley and Alpine Meadows resorts one of the largest in North America, with 6,000 acres of terrain.

The new gondola is 2.4 miles long and traverses just over 3,100 vertical feet. The ride takes approximately 16 minutes, including a brief stop at the new KT-22 mid-station.

Also, the Red Dog chair lift, which starts at the base of Palisades Tahoe, has been relocated to offer convenient direct access from the parking lot, and is now a high-speed detachable six-person chair.

Northstar – This venerable resort celebrates its 50th anniversary this season with the new Comstock Express lift, a high-speed six-person chair that increases capacity by 50%.

Mt. Rose Ski Tahoe – A favorite of locals, Mt. Rose redirected its Lakeview chair lift so it now goes all the way to the top, with expansive views of Lake Tahoe along the way.

Colorado

Arapahoe Basin – The old fixed-grip three-seater Lenawee Lift, which dated from 2001, has been replaced with a high-speed six-pack. This will alleviate one of the last remaining pinch points on what most of us call – simply – A-Basin.

Buttermilk – Known as the beginners and family area of the four mountains of Aspen (Aspen, Aspen Highlands, Snowmass and Buttermilk), this under-rated area gets a sparkling new base area with services including a guest lounge and lockers.

Eldora – This locals fav celebrates its 60^th season this season, with upgrades including a $7 Million parking expansion with room for nearly 800 additional spaces. Eldora also has increased snowmaking and its rental fleet.

Steamboat – Also celebrating its 60^th season, “The Boat” is almost done with its $200 Million multi-year transformation of the base area. New for this season is a beginner area, called Greenhorn Ranch, serviced by the new Wild Blue Gondola, a new beginner lift and two new carpets.

Telluride Ski Resort – The new high-speed detachable quad for Chair 9 cuts the lift time in half, from 15 minutes to 7, and services 2,000 vertical feet of terrain.

Winter Park – The resort is opening what’s called “previously unutilized terrain” in The Cirque Territory. The new terrain is called “Jelly Roll” for its steep pitch and ability to hold powder for days after a storm. Winter Park also is planning to open more terrain in the Chutes area on Mary Jane.

Amtrak Ski Train – The popular train between Denver and Winter Park returns for the season, weekends only, with fares as low as $29 each way. The official name is Winter Park Express. Reservations often get booked out, so plan ahead.

Idaho and Montana

Lookout Pass – This area, which spans two states (Idaho and Montana) and two time zones, opens its Eagle Peak Expansion this season, nearly doubling the resort’s skiable terrain. Lookout Pass which is, Idaho’s oldest continuously operating ski area, consistently gets in excess of 400 inches of snow per year, making it a secret stash for consistent powder.

Big Sky Resort – More than 350 new complimentary parking spots have been added across the resort, including one priority area for carpools. Big Sky is a member of both the Ikon Pass and Mountain Collective – these passholders need to make reservations this season to use their days.

Wyoming

Jackson Hole – After 28 years of service, the fixed-grip four-seat Thunder lift has been replaced by a new high-speed quad. It’s twice as fast as the lift it replaces, cutting ride time from 7 minutes to under 4. The new Thunder lift still accesses some of Jackson’s top runs, including Laramie Bowl, Thunder Bumps and the Grand.

Grand Targhee – On the other side of the Teton Pass from Jackson Hole, this resort debuts the new Colter Lift on Peaked Mountain this season. It can transport up to 2,000 people per hour, gaining 1,815 vertical feet in just over 5 minutes. It also accesses 30 percent more skiing and riding to what was formerly hike-in.

It is the first major terrain expansion at Grand Targhee since the Sacajawea lift opened in 2001. The resort usually gets more than 500 inches of snowfall each winter.

So where are you going this season? As always, we welcome your comments.

What’s New This Ski/Snowboard Season – Utah Edition

October 13, 2022/2 Comments/in Destinations, Other News, West/by Evelyn Kanter

Photo Credit: Ski Utah

So many resorts, most of them within 45 minutes of the Salt Lake City airport. And so many new lifts, trams, on-mountain dining, and more, this season.

Here’s a short swing around what’s new and notable on the snow in Utah, in alphabetical order, since that’s the only fair way:

Alta Ski Area – The Sunnyside fixed-grip triple has been replaced with a high-speed six-pack, speeding access from the Albion base area. Also new this season is that parking reservations are now required for Fridays, in addition to Saturdays, Sundays and holidays. Alta has improved some of the Sleepy Hollow terrain off the Supreme Lift area.

Cherry Peak Resort – Introducing one of Utah’s newest ski resorts, near Logan. The family-owned resort features three triple chairlifts and 400 acres of family-friendly terrain. There are 29 runs, a terrain park, tubing, night skiing and ice skating.

Deer Valley – The Burns Express is a new chairlift connecting the Snow Park base area to Little Baldy, offering Ski School access to more beginner teaching terrain and an additional option for skiers to navigate out of the main arrival area. Also, surface lifts and beginner terrain in the Wide West area have been improved.

The Snow Park Village base area has been upgraded with new transit arrival facilities including new food and beverage options. A new high-end seafood and steak restaurant, Cast & Cut, opens in Snow Park Lodge, featuring seafood towers, grass-fed beef and more.

Nordic Valley – There are new glade runs on the Nordic Express area, plus a new Yurt lounge, and the former Ski Patrol room has been transformed into a beer bar, appropriately called The Aid Room.

Park City Mountain – There’s a new outdoor patio at Red Tail Grill, near the Orange Bubble Express and Red Pine Gondola. The resort also has invested in employee housing, with a 441-bed development at Canyons Village.

Snowbasin – The big news is the switch from the Epic Pass to both the Ikon Pass and Mountain Collective Pass this season.

Snowbird – The big news here is two brand new large, super-modern Tram cabins – one red, one blue – which will whisk guests to 11,000 feet. The trams offer spectacular floor-to-ceiling windows and additional see-through viewing panels in the floor, for a true feeling of flying.

After snow season, prepare yourself to experience – drumroll please – a rooftop balcony, first of its kind in the United States. Hang out – and hang on – riding outside for 360-degree views. Starting summer 2023.

Solitude Mountain – The resort opens its first terrain park, adding features to the North Star and Main Street runs. The Yurt has been revamped to be open during the day for lunch. In the evening, it transitions to an exclusive five-course dining experience reachable by a moonlit snowshoe tour.

Sundance Mountain Resort – There’s a new fixed-grip quad south of Jake’s lift this season. The 14-minute ride opens 40 acres of new terrain. In addition, the resort, founded by film icon Robert Redford, is expanding operations with 15 acres of groomed terrain, 10+ new runs, and 36 new acres of skiable terrain.

Woodward Park City – Open just a few seasons, the area already has redesigned its layout to increase it’s terrain park features by 20%. It is also one of the few ski/snowboard resorts anywhere with a parkour zone.

Find more information on any or all of these resorts on www.skiutah.com.

Where will you be skiing in Utah this season?

“Come Ski With Me”: A New Don Burch Video

March 31, 2022/2 Comments/in Other News, West/by Don Burch

Don Burch recently returned from his first ski trip to Colorado in almost 50 years. He titled this video summary of his time at Beaver Creek, Copper, Keystone, Breckenridge and Vail, “Come Ski With Me.” It’s another fine example of Don’s refreshing new genre of ski video: brief, graphically interesting, and easy to watch.

Deer Valley Resort: Great Skiing; Great Service; Great Food

March 17, 2022/7 Comments/in Destinations, Home Top Box 3, Resort Reviews, West/by Tamsin Venn

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Like many of its patrons, Deer Valley is extremely well-groomed. Source: Deer Valley

Deer Valley Resort is just easier. Easier to ski, easier to get to, easier to gear up for the day (free overnight ski and boot check). As a senior skier, I’m totally on board with that.

A few minutes drive or free bus from ski town Park City, UT, the base at Snow Park Lodge (7,200 feet) is the main starting point to these well-manicured slopes and to the reliable, friendly staff in their forest-green uniforms. Some will still carry your skis from the car.

Most of the skiing (snowboarders not allowed) rises above Bald Eagle Mountain (8,400 feet), putting you at Silver Lake Lodge. From here, you have access to skiing at Bald and Flagstaff Mountains with intermediate runs. Quincy Express offers short, fun intermediate trails off Northside Express like Sidewinder, Lost Boulder, and Lucky Star. Use the singles line to lap these more quickly. Veer skiers’ right on top of Bald and ski the double blues and blacks and iconic Stein’s Run overlooking the Jordanelle Reservoir off Sultan Lift.

It’s a feast: 2,000 acres of skiing over six peaks. All have a beginner or intermediate run from the top. When we were there early March, groomed runs numbered 62 out of 103, more than half.

Deer Valley Winterscape. Source: Deer Valley

Grooming status is posted on boards at the top of lifts. For the chutes and trees, do what my daughter and her boyfriend do, use a walkie-talkie. One goes first, and the other radios back, “Don’t come down here.”

After a splendid lunch at Empire Canyon Lodge (fish tacos with grilled Scottish salmon, Deer Valley turkey chili, seasonal salads, Mac and Cheese with raclette – the resort is well known for good dining — hop on Empire Express to Empire Peak (9,570 feet, highest elevation). Here you ski bumps or powder in the steep bowls. Most cruise the intermediate groomers. More options are one lift over at Lady Morgan Express.

Deer Valley is always fun… especially on a powder day. Source: Deer Valley

The mountain ops staff clear the glades for well-spaced tree skiing. This year they thinned out three new low-angle, easily accessible, glades, giving seniors a chance to ski the trees like they used to, no tree hugging. Ask a mountain host stationed at the trail map billboards for their locations.

Deer Valley was crowded on the weekend we were there (parking lot and access road full) and was close to restricting ticket sales. The 12 high-speed chairlifts keep people moving though.

Next season, it will only offer access (seven days) on the Ikon Base Plus Pass, not the Ikon Base Pass, presumably to help keep skier numbers down.

I met several older skiers on the lifts, transplants from the East, skiing on a DV senior season pass grateful, despite a recent price hike, they could freely choose the best conditions.

DV Stats

2,026 acres

Base elevation 6,570 feet; summit 9,570 feet

103 ski runs, 6 bowls, 21 chairlifts

Longest vertical, 1,380 feet off Little Baldy

Average annual snowfall: 300 inches

27 percent beginner, 41 percent intermediate, 32 percent expert terrain

Prices:

Full day senior pass, 65 and older: $134-$187 (to April 17, conditions permitting)

Season Pass (22/23 season) 65 and older: $1,995

Skiing Crested Butte

March 3, 2022/2 Comments/in Destinations, Home Top Box 4, Resort Reviews, West/by Marc Liebman

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Source: Travel Crested Butte

The first thing one notices about the terrain at Crested Butte is the jagged, arrowhead shaped mountain peak thrusting into the sky. The base of the mountain is 9,820’, and lifts take you to a notch, several hundred feet below its 12,162’ summit.

There’s lots to like about skiing Crested Butte: beaucoup, well-groomed beginner, intermediate and expert trails spread over ~3,000 feet of vertical; 121 runs in all, 23% beginner, 57% intermediate and 20% expert.

The runs off the East River and Paradise Express lifts – hallelujah, they have footrests – are an intermediate’s dream with rolling terrain coupled with some interesting pitches. Or, if you prefer greens, you can yo-yo up and down Red Lady Express. In fact, all the lifts with the word Express in the name, have footrests!

If you like it steep, groomed, or ungroomed, ride Silver Queen Express and pick International or Keystone. Both were groomed when my brother and I were there a few weeks ago. They have challenging steep pitches and are gratifying to ski. If your knees can handle moguls, Joker, Crystal, or Twister await.

Source: Travel Crested Butte

If you’re more adventurous, take Paradise Express and ski to the North Face Lift which provides access to several steep tree runs. You’ll end on the intermediate Black Eagle Trail that will take you to the bottom of the East River Express. Be advised, some hiking may be required to ski the areas served by North Face.

Good news for senior skiers: on-hill lodge restrooms tend to be on the same level as the snow. At the base, they’re downstairs but serviced by elevator!!!

Accommodations are plenty. There are condos at the base of the area in what is known as Mount Crested Butte. Crested Butte is owned by Vail Resorts, and our Epic passes got us skiing and a 20% discount off the nightly rate at a condo 500 feet from the lift and discounts at some of the stores, bars, and restaurants.

According to my iPhone, the town of Crested Butte is 2.8 miles down the road, where you’ll find plenty of restaurants and stores. Gunnison is 27 miles to the south and has its own charm. If you stay in a condo and want to bring food, Gunnison’s City Market is well stocked and reasonably priced.

We reserved gear via Black Tie Ski Rentals. They bring the equipment right to your condo.

Gunnison is the nearest air-carrier served airport with direct flights from Dallas, Houston, and Denver. From the Dallas -Fort Worth Metroplex, Crested Butte is, weather permitting, about a 13-hour drive. From the Denver area, it is 4 – 5 hours.

Would we go back? Oh yeah!!!

Latigo Ranch: High-Country Nordic

December 2, 2021/1 Comment/in Destinations, Home Top Box 4, Make More Tracks, West/by Jonathan Wiesel

Sometimes life exceeds expectation. That’s what I’ve found with winter ranches in the Rockies.

In summer, hundreds of dude ranches draw thousands of visitors. They’re crazy-diverse: homespun and elegant; private and heavily peopled; mostly self-service or with staff at your call. You’ll find Spartan working ranches as well as places with canapés and kidney-shaped swimming pools.

The few ranches open in winter are outstanding – magnificent settings and staff, excellent facilities and food, and snow so delicate it drifts through the air like cold smoke. They’re run for cross-country skiers, snowshoers, and, increasingly, fat bikers by people who love the season and their profession.

Wecome to Latigo Ranch

A prime example is Latigo Ranch, near the town of Kremmling in north-central Colorado’s Gore Range. It’s owned and managed by Lisa and Randy George and their kids.

Latigo used to run cattle, sheep, and “dudes” before it totally converted to guest ranching in 1987. Once you turn off Highway 134, you start climbing, trading sage for pine, spruce, and aspen, interspersed with vast meadows. It feels like the top of the world.

Latigo can cater to pretty much any culinary taste, be it red meat, vegetarian, kosher, low carb, or low fat. Breakfast is my favorite meal. I have fond memories of buttermilk pancakes imprinted with the ranch brand, complemented by genuine maple syrup.

Latigo comfortably handles 22 guests, but you’ll seldom find that number except during holidays. Cabins are ski-in/ski-out, nestled in pines above the lodge with wood-burning stoves. This is a ski ranch, not a resort (no phones or TVs in the rooms).

50km of groomed trails lace through Latigo

Latigo grooms 50 kilometers of trail for track, skating, and fatbiking.

This is gorgeous, rugged country, with some of the most enjoyable skiing and diverse trails I’ve ever experienced. For example, the descent on Arena Run can be like silk in fresh snow; lightning in the spring.

High up on windswept Jumper Flats, you’ll find a broad panoramic view. You can tear down The Luge at sunset, when you may be greeted with a spectacular play of colors over the Indian Peaks Wilderness – 70 miles of mountain and valley snowscape.

If you’re altitude-sensitive, book a longer stay and take it easy for at least the first day. (Latigo’s trails range from around 8,600’ to 9,400’ above sea level.)

It’s a wonderful thing to ski back to the ranch on a crisp afternoon, saunter over to the Social Center, and finish the day with a sybaritic Jacuzzi soak!

When You Go

Latigo is 150 miles from Denver International Airport. In addition to trails, you can go sledding, tubing, and snowshoeing. Skis, snowshoes, and pulks can be rented at the ranch, but you’ll need to bring your own fat bike.

Adult rate for winter 2021-’22 is $225/day and covers lodging, meals, trails, and “100 % free views.” The season begins just before Christmas and runs into early March. Interested in learning more? Call 970-724-9008; email Randy@LatigoRanch.com, or visit www.latigoranch.com.

Yellowstone’s Winter Magic

October 11, 2021/1 Comment/in Home Top Box 2, Make More Tracks, West/by Jonathan Wiesel

SOURCE: YELLOWSTONE EXPEDITIONS

In 1991, while guiding a small group in Yellowstone National Park, I tried to describe walking outside as the sun rose one February morning near Old Faithful:

“Morning light pours over the hills, reflecting off the frost in a blinding cloud of diamonds. Elk and bison shake snow off their backs, stirring after a long night’s chill. Duck and geese stretch and preen. Billows of geyser steam hover and settle, creating dense, lacy patterns on bowed pine branches. Yellowstone tastes of winter magic.”

Summer and Winter

To me, Yellowstone isn’t a great treat in summer. Yes, the combination of animal and geothermal activity is unique – but this year there were close to three million visitors, June to August. That’s too many vehicles and frowning faces jammed along narrow roads.

Winter is totally different. First, there’s almost no traffic (no bears either, although they may peep out of their dens in January). The only road that’s kept plowed runs east from Mammoth in the northwest to Cooke City, where it dead ends. All other roads are snow-covered and accessible by snowmobile, snowcoach (enclosed and heated tracked vehicles), or on skis or snowshoes.

Yellowstone’s winter is created for superlatives. No other place in the world has such an inspiring combination of wildlife and wild geology. It’s rich in history; has spectacular mountain scenery; and the park’s 2.2 million acres are yours without crowds or pollution.

Getting There

Yellowstone is located in the northwest corner of Wyoming, with little extensions north into Montana and west into Idaho.

To enter the park, you can travel north from Jackson Hole; west from Cody, Wyoming; or east from West Yellowstone, Montana. My favorite (fourth) route is east from Bozeman to Livingston; south through the Paradise Valley; pass through the sleepy town of Gardiner; and drive up to Mammoth Hot Springs, where you can overnight at the venerable Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel, with elk grazing outside the ground floor windows.

Using Mammoth as a base, you can drive toward Cooke City, with a lot of photos stops for wildlife in the Lamar Valley, and then backtrack.

Heading South

From Mammoth you can get to Old Faithful by snowcoach or snowmobile, sight-seeing, skiing, and snowshoeing along the way. Norris Geyser Basin and the jaw-dropping Canyon of the Yellowstone River, with ice-laden and thunderous falls, are natural stops.

The center of the park is a volcanic crater, 40 miles across, with the world’s greatest concentration of geothermal features: geysers and fumaroles, mud pots and hot pools. One of my favorite Yellowstone memories is a morning ski on a snow-covered wooden boardwalk, watching a bison standing above a steam vent, basking in the warm air billowing around his belly.

Snowpack around Mammoth can be thin, but Old Faithful has reliable conditions and all kinds of good trails. You’re guaranteed to see lots of elk and bison, maybe coyotes, possibly wolves.

SOURCE: YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK LODGES

In winter, bison are relatively indifferent to humans, since they’re intent on scarce forage and surviving sometimes bitter cold, but it’s not something to count on. I’ve skied within feet of a bison, on a narrow trail with a cliff to one side and sheer drop on the other. We came around a corner and there they were. We carefully didn’t make eye contact with the cows and calves that plodded toward us, and I could hear muttered prayers from the other skiers (my teeth were chattering too hard to enunciate).

Of all the times I’ve visited Old Faithful, the most indelible and endearing memory isn’t a glorious streamside tour, two feet of light fresh snow, or being mock-charged by a bull elk. It’s the smiles on three kids’ faces as one cold morning they dropped tablets of food coloring in glasses of hot water, ran outside the Snow Lodge, and threw them in the air! It was a cold morning, and the droplets turned into rainbows of frozen mist – blue, red, green – that slowly drifted in the breeze and disappeared. So a half-dozen of us adults did the same thing.

Now, that’s magic.

Resources

The Mammoth Hotel and the Old Faithful Snow Lodge provide Yellowstone’s only winter accommodations and dining other than yurt village/guide service Yellowstone Expeditions (https://yellowstoneexpeditions.com/). They typically open for the season mid-December 20^th through early March.

You can book accommodations by contacting Yellowstone National Park Lodges (https://www.yellowstonenationalparklodges.com/). For a snowcoach tour, I’d recommend Yellowstone Alpen Guides in West Yellowstone (https://seeyellowstone.com/), especially if you want skiing or snowshoeing.

Top To Bottom: Park City Last Day 2021

April 13, 2021/4 Comments/in West/by seniorsskiing

Three Costumed Spring Skiing Characters Put A Cap On The Season.

Fun run down to the Tombstone lift at Park City on closing day. Enjoy the silly fun.

Our Vicarious Vacation series winds up in Park City, UT, on April 12 this year, the last day of the season. Our three characters head down from Cloud Dine to the Tombstone Lift on the “canyon side.”

We’ve never skied Park City, but this run follows trails which look remarkably like classic New England. Kind of narrow, through trees, past condos. Heading under numerous overpasses is a bit unique. Credit goes to RV Dummy for this video and the merry band of spring celebrants.

This wraps this season’s Vicarious Vacations. We hope you enjoyed taking top to bottom runs on some wonderful resorts, some of which may be totally new to you. Now you know.

Top To Bottom: Telluride

April 8, 2021/5 Comments/in West/by seniorsskiing

Here’s A View Of A Quad-Busting Run At A High-Altitude Colorado Classic.

Telluride has trails for everyone from beginners to expert. And it is certainly less crowded than the resort that starts with V.

Our Vicarious Vacation series heads west to the major destination resort with a Victorian mining town heritage and lots of mountain to ski. At 8,750, the town sits at the base of mountains that range to 11,000 feet, making some of the highest, longest ski runs in North America.

This video was produced in 2019 with some helpful annotations pointing out lift names, mountain ranges, and…Jerry, whoever he is. In any case, the twinky music ends in a couple of minutes, thankfully, and you can just listen to skis hissing through the snow all the way to the bottom. Credit goes to RealEstateTelluride. Click image below. Have fun.

Make More Tracks: “When All Else Fails, We Still Have Trails”

March 22, 2021/0 Comments/in Make More Tracks, West/by Pat McCloskey

A Network Of Trails Run By Community Foundation Offers Multi-Use Recreational Activities.

Pat rides tubby tires, taking a break from skis. Round Valley, UT, has 25 km of trails for XC, biking, hiking. Summer activities include trail running, horse riding, mountain biking in the Park City area. Credit: Pat McCloskey

The motto above is the moniker of one of the most interesting trail systems I have seen to date. Round Valley, near Park City, UT, is a paradise for cross country skiers, fat bikers, hikers, and dog walkers. The well groomed trails encourage multi- use and 25 kilometres is groomed for traditional cross country skiing and freestyle XC over 700 acres of preserve.

This preserve was once slated for development until some of the townspeople thought better and put together a foundation to encourage an alternate use for the land. Click here to read about the Mountain Trails Foundation. They were successful, and today, it is a very popular place for recreation. Well marked, and used for many pursuits, it shows how forward thinkers can offer an alternative to the rabid development of available land for housing or commercial pursuits. Especially in a town where recreation is king.

Not only are the trails well marked and groomed, but there is a sense of pride that you can feel there with all the activity. Some of the different things that I noticed was the general health and shape of the people who regularly use the system. At altitude, it is impressive to see older people skating up a steep hill on freestyle XC skis. With a big smile on their face they greeted us as they hammered up the hill to the summit which has a breathtaking view of the surrounding Wasatch Mountains. You could see fat bikers off in the distance climbing on miles of trails and the traditional cross country skiers making good use out of the track setting. Gliding along they smiled and said hello as their dogs followed in hot pursuit.

Lots of dogs play with their humans along the way. Credit: Pat McCloskey

Speaking of dogs, I was amazed at how many of them were along with the hikers, skiers, and riders . At no time did they interfere with activity and they seemed to know to get to the side when going downhill so as not to impede the progress of their owners. All off leash, they seemed to have a sense of how to move with the flow of traffic and at no time did they seem like a menace to anyone on the trails. Even the dogs are welcomed to get into shape and never avoid a hill for fitness. But their sense of the trail layout and the difficulty of some trails and the gentle grade of others showed me that man’s best friends are more aware than I thought.

I always say when I venture west how impressed I am with the fitness of people out there. Even “older” folks seem to be in great shape and don’t let their advancing age hinder their pursuit for outdoor activities and the great visuals of the Wasatch. I suppose if you have over 300 days of sunshine, world class skiing, water sports, and multi use trail systems like Round Valley, you really have no excuse not to take advantage of the great outdoors. They have a great life out there.

For more information on a really well thought out recreation area, check out Mountain Trails and see for yourself how active people can make a difference to better their lives and other lives as well.

Dawn at Round Vally from the grooming team. Credit: Mountain Trails

Make More Tracks: Favorite Nordic Centers In Colorado

March 15, 2021/0 Comments/in Make More Tracks, West/by seniorsskiing

Small Ranch Resorts And Large Scale Nordic Centers Span The State.

[Editor Note: This article by Pete Wilson first appeared in The Nordic Approach.]

In this state of mile-high life, opportunities to elevate your outdoor activities abound. Taking a page from the book of their Alpine resort neighbors, these cross-country ski areas center their offerings around the spectacular peaks of the southern Rockies—though in a slightly different way than downhill does it. Rolling and widely varied terrain lets Nordic skiers, fat-bikers and snowshoers work their way up and around some of the countries most magnificent slopes, giving them access to exclusive vistas, and breathtaking drops on the way back down. A combination of small ranch-resorts and larger scale Nordic Centers, the ski venues surveyed here span the breadth of Colorado’s natural bounty and the various adventures it has in store. For explorers of every age and inclination, if you’re Colo-ready, Colorado awaits!

ASPEN SNOWMASS NORDIC CENTER

Recognizing that Nordic skiing is something so incredible that everyone should have access to it, the volunteer board which oversees Aspen Snowmass works hard to maintain it as one of the largest free trail networks in the country. This awesome array of routes connects three towns—Aspen, Snowmass, and Basalt—and their respective trail networks into one massive adventure waiting to be had. Start from any of the towns, or from either of the two Nordic centers (yes, two!), and perhaps go check out the view from Buttermilk Ski Area, or continue on the trail for lunch in Aspen village, or simply cruise to your heart’s content. Plan your outing here!

GOLD RUN NORDIC CENTER

As its name suggests, this Breckenridge destination really is a gold mine for fun-seeking families. The skiing is excellent—30 km of beautifully groomed trails for both skate and classic skiing. Beyond that though, this nugget of a Nordic center boasts 15 km of dedicated snowshoe trails, a full fleet of fat bikes for rental, sleigh rides and more! Learn more about all of Gold Run’s golden opportunities, along with its punch pass system and ticket deals here!

KEYSTONE NORDIC CENTER

Just outside of Frisco, this humble Nordic Center promises memorable experiences for the whole family. For the seasoned skier, Keystone’s nine miles of trails combined with the adjoining White River State Park’s 35 miles offer thrillingly hilly fun. For dedicated snowshoers, the Perimeter Snowshoe Trail gives a wholly different perspective of area, taking you deep into the Keystone backcountry. And for the littler ones, a safe-yet-stimulating tubing hill is just a short walk from the lodge, where kids can do loops sledding down and hiking up for days. For the grown-ups, be sure to wind up back at the Nordic Center bar for some après-ski sips after your outing. Read about all of Keystone’s excellent amenities here!

VISTA VERDE GUEST RANCH

A smaller trail system of predominantly meadowy and gently hilly terrain, Vista Verde is geared towards getting their guests out on snow for their first times. And for this purpose, the place is perfect. A dedicated staff of Nordic pros will outfit Ranch guests with well-fitting, complementary equipment, and then give careful instruction, gentle advice or guided ski tours as you require. Trails loop across sprawling fields, over babbling brooks, through the aspen stands, and all the way back to the Ranch—where, it might go without saying, excellent lodging and fine-dining fare are to be readily found. Learn more, and book your trip, here!

HOWELSEN HILL

Owned and operated by the city of Steamboat Springs, Howelsen Hill is renowned as America’s oldest operating ski area—and though its most famous for its Alpine creds, this little mountain has some serious Nordic terrain. With 21 km of widely varying trails, ranging from flats to fairly intense climbs and drops, Howelsen’s adds a bevy of possible activities to your next Steamboat trip. Learn more here!

BRECKENRIDGE NORDIC CENTER

Just a few minutes’ drive from downtown Breckenridge, this family-oriented Nordic center has been granting visitors access to thousands of acres of the area’s most picturesque terrain for almost half a century. Not only do 30 km of well-cared-for trails wind their way up to above 10,000 feet elevation, stopping at two hand-hewn “destination huts,” but the Center offers group tours of the same terrain from the warm comfort of glass-enclosed snowcats. After you’ve made it up to the continental divide and had a little break in one of the warming huts, be sure to circle back to the Lodge for happy hour and a hearty bowl of soup! Learn more about this unique Breckenridge destination here.

FRISCO NORDIC CENTER

Conveniently located just outside downtown Frisco, this high-altitude Nordic Center has something for every skier. Work your way up to the summit’s panoramic views of the Breckenridge region, or tootle around with the kids on the flatter, but no less fun, beginner’s loop. Plus, for even more kid-friendly activities, just down the road is the Frisco tubing hill and beginner’s ski hill. With 27 km of crisply groomed trails though, there’s more than enough adventure on the Center’s spacious land. Learn more here!

CRESTED BUTTE NORDIC CENTER

A gem of Colorado Nordic skiing, the Crested Butte Nordic Center’s super-convenient downtown location lets users hop on the trails without any driving—just walk from your home, hotel, or VRBO! In minutes you can be geared up and out on over 50 km of world class terrain. While skiing in Crested Butte, be sure to stop in at the trailside Magic Mountain Yurt for a chef-chosen dinner menu. The mile route to the yurt is lit by solar lights, so you can easily ski or snowshoe out for an exquisite and absolutely memorable meal. See why some call Crested Butte the Nordic Capital of Colorado here!

DEVIL’S THUMB RANCH

Ranked the #1 Cross-Country Ski Resort in the country for two years running by USA Today, this luxury Ranch’s Nordic terrain is a sight to behold. With 120 km of expertly maintained trails winding their way through the foothills of the continental divide, there is something to wow skiers of every skill level. The resort’s in-house outfitter, Zach’s Mercantile, offers a full range of skate and classic Nordic equipment for rental or purchase. Plus, a team of world-class Nordic instructors stand ready to give visitors and guests all the instruction you need to have the best possible ski experience. Check out this wondrous Colorado destination here!

SNOW MOUNTAIN RANCH

Tucked well up in the Rockies, a ways West of Denver, Snow Mountain Ranch cares for over 5,000 acres of pristine Colorado ski terrain. At 9,000 feet in elevation, it’s not called Snow Mountain for nothing—averaging around 200 inches per winter, which bring dependably fantastic conditions to all of the Ranch’s 120 km of trails. If you’re not too busy exploring the endless ski adventures, be sure to check out the tubing hill and the ice rink—and to grab a yummy bite at the Skinny Ski Café! Whatever you decide to do, you can’t go wrong in this unique winter wonderland. Learn more here.

LATIGO RANCH

Continuing the proud Colorado tradition of guest Ranches with excellent cross-country ski terrain, Latigo Ranch has centered their winter programming on their stellar backcountry and Nordic terrain. And with 50 km of beautiful trails, meticulously groomed for both skate and classic, plus another 200 square miles of deep powder perfectly suited for backcountry skiing, its easy to see why. Luckily for us, these wonderful trails are open to the public. If you do go for a day trip, consider booking a lunch or dinner reservation at Latigo’s elegant-Western restaurant. You can find more information about this secluded ski destination here!

TELLURIDE NORDIC ASSOCIATION

Bringing together the impeccable ski terrain of six different areas, the Telluride Nordic Association (TNA) maintains and gives users free (though donations are encouraged) access miles upon miles of gorgeous cross country trails. Ranging from the dog-friendly hills of Priest Lake to the classic-skiing-only River Trail, perfect for the Nordic tourer, TNA has something for everyone. Their Nordic Center in downtown Telluride also offers top of the line rental equipment, tuning services, and lessons. You can even ask about multiday rentals, to keep you going during your whole stay in Telluride! Learn more here.

ELDORA NORDIC CENTER

Branching off to the left of Eldora Mountain’s alpine trails, the Nordic Center’s 40 km of wide, well-groomed thoroughfares show off all that the mountain has to offer, albeit from a different perspective than the chairlift-accessed terrain. Winding through old-growth forests, alpine meadows and alongside big-mountain viewpoints, these trails are sure to get your blood pumping and your senses stimulated. With the added amenities of Eldora’s on-mountain restaurant, bar and smoke shack, you can easily make any outing on these excellent trails extra memorable. Plan your adventure here!

TENNESSEE PASS NORDIC CENTER

A dedicated Nordic ski hub, Tennessee Pass takes a classic Alpine ski lodge approach to cross country. 30 km of trails extend out from a central building furnished with all the Nordic and Nordic-related equipment you could want available for rental and purchase, a bar and restaurant, and a spacious sunny deck on which to relax. The trails themselves are excellently maintained and vary in difficulty from beginner flats to expert climbs. Just to add to the magic of this place, Tennessee Pass has a collection of off-the-grid sleeping yurts available for group or individual rental.

ASHCROFT SKI TOURING

A bit of an oddity in the ski world, Ashcroft Ski Touring is a ski center that doubles as the Pine Creek Cookhouse restaurant. At Ashcroft, you can peruse the 35 kilometers of stunning Aspen wilderness by day, and by night peruse the mouthwatering entrees that the locally-sourced, chef-driven restaurant has to offer. In addition to the Cookhouse, this wondrous trail network also makes stops at three different warming huts along its gorgeous loops. Be sure to check out their especially awesome all-inclusive tours—which cover trail fees, rentals and a delicious meal. Learn more about this wonderful aberration here!

Top To Bottom: Vail

March 9, 2021/15 Comments/in West/by seniorsskiing

Take A Vicarious Vacation On A Beautiful Blue Run.

A ticket-free run for our readers down the front side of Vail all the way to the bottom. Credit: Glenn Robbins

Here’s a long (15 minute) run down the front side of Vail on a really nice blue. For those who haven’t been there, seeing wide, groomed slopes at Vail may be different from the mental model you’ve had of what it’s like at the fabled resort. This is not the Back Bowls, but still very nice and, for those of us on the lesser side of the risk scale, most do-able.

Curious, we notice the skier Glenn Robbins, isn’t using his ski straps. (See 1:44 and following.) Is this a thing?

How Is It At Park City And Deer Valley?

March 2, 2021/6 Comments/in West/by Pat McCloskey

Visitors To These Destination Resorts Send First Hand Report.

[Editor Note: This article first appeared in The Chronicles of McCloskey, March 1, 2021.]

How is the skiing experience in different areas around the country you might ask? We all have heard about the long lines in Colorado and Tahoe and even locally the lines have been robust. I am thinking that the Pandemic has encouraged people to get outside and also the snowy, cold winter around the Easrt has brought about a renewed enthusiasm for skiing. It has also been a good winter around the country. My friends have reported huge snows in the Pacific Northwest and some longer lines in several other western areas.

Last week my wife and I ventured to Utah at the invitation of some very good friends who live there. They have been careful with social distancing and so have we, so our only unknown was the airport and plane. We were careful but the airports were reasonable and allowed for distancing. Even the planes were sanitized, and we were fortunate to not have anyone in the middle seat. We wore our masks, sanitized the seats and tray tables and also our headrests. All was well and we made our way to ski at Deer Valley, our first stop.

One of the first things we noticed was that Deer Valley was not really that crowded despite what we had heard about neighboring Park City Resort. They limit the lift tickets and since I had an IKON Pass, I was able to ski without a reservation and my wife was able to get a buddy pass at the ticket window each day without issue. In typical Deer Valley protocol, the slopes were impeccably groomed much to my wife’s delight, and the sun shone brightly every day, even though there were cold temperatures . I noticed that the indoor dining was restricted and a reservation system was in place for all the ski lodges. You could get “Grab and Go” meals either by ordering on the Deer Valley App or ordering at the window. Eating outside was encouraged. But there was very little indoor warming encouraged.

In the lift lines, signage was plentiful regarding social distancing and all Deer Valley employees were on alert to instruct anyone who had their face masks down to pull them up. Even on the exit ramps on the chairlifts, there were signs to use your mask when unloading. Instructors had masks on when teaching, and all of the employees had masks for every function in the area.

Main Street in Park City was still pretty crowded and even though there were protocols for social distancing, the amount of people made it so that we did not shop or eat on Main Street. We dined with our friends in their beautiful home and did take out one night.

So, even though there are consistent similarities in Covid protocol in all ski areas this season, the West is doing a good job with the amount of locals skiing and also visitors who now are a little more comfortable traveling. Like the McCloskeys. The atmosphere seems a bit subdued out there as the apres and dining scene are affected by restrictions. You could actually feel it when walking around. Something was definitely different. All bets were off at the No Name Saloon as it seemed to be a haven for the ” cabin fever” crowd. We stayed away for now. I will see what Mammoth Mountain is doing at the end of this month, but if I have the experience that we had in Deer Valley, I will be comfortable and again grateful to be skiing. Thanks for reading.

Aspen Top To Bottom

February 22, 2021/6 Comments/in West/by seniorsskiing

Take A Virtual Vacation And A Long Run On Us.

All the way down. Thanks James Beatty.

Ok, so no Aspen for you this year. But here’s a video of a run from the top of Aspen Mountain all the way to the bottom. Sounds like scratchy snow, and, come to think of it, where is everyone?

Last season, SkiCo topped 1.5 million visits to Aspen Mountain and Aspen Highlights. This year, visitors are going to need a negative COVID test within 72 hours of arriving or quarantine for 10 days. Not surprisingly, arrivals at the tiny Aspen airport are down 50 percent, and occupancy data from the Aspen Chamber Resort Association reflects the drop in visitors. In December, occupancy rates at lodges were down 34 percent from the year prior in Aspen, and 16 percent in Snowmass.

Result: You can enjoy a vicarious run without much people-traffic. And your quads don’t have to suffer!

Thanks to Jack Beatty for posting his Feb. 5, 2021 run for all on Youtube.

An Odyssey Between US And Canada

February 1, 2021/1 Comment/in West/by Dave Chambers

Our Traveling Australian Skier Recalls Characters, Odd Places, And Skiing In The US/Canadian West.

[Please consider supporting SeniorsSkiing.com with a donation. We appreciate your help. Click here.]

Beautiful downtown Curlew, WA, a ghost town stop on the way to BC.

Have you been to Curlew, WA? We try several routes in an attempt to exit the USA, having already skied at Schweitzer Ski Resort. When I say skied, I use the term advisedly. Due to lack of snow, most of the ski hill is closed. But now we are still in the wild vacant Northwest back woods.. The landscape is quite depleted of signs. You wouldn’t think it would be that difficult to get back into Canada. I mean, the border, is 5,000 miles long.

The Curlew Saloon on Main Street

While pursuing a route, we chance upon the town of Curlew. I say town, it was once a town now a ghost town more than any ghost could conceive. I walked casually, quietly, through the door of the Curlew Saloon. I notice the licensee, silver hair, beau-fount style, piled high on her head, like Dolly Parton but raggedy eyed. A patron, her worn body reflecting all of her ninety years affected by smoke and booze. She eyed me, a stranger, with a leery eye. A stranger is noticed here.

Curlew Saloon is a taxidermist’s showcase. Credit: Dave Chambers

Ahead of me, launching out of the ceiling, a Cougar, within its snarly jaws, sharp and yellowed teeth. Further in a delicate patterned rattlesnake skin now devoid of its body is flattened against the weathered timber wall. The scene is old, faded and dreary. Several skulls and horns decorate. No one really engages with a stranger here. Two of three other occupants whisper in the quiet space. One a city slicker wants to move to a quieter town. Maybe he could move to this old gold mining town, its heyday long now a memory. I say g’day to the cowboy in the big hat. With an efficiency of movement, a vacant stare, he leans forward and barely nods a response.

The short wide Main Street looks like a western set in an old Hollywood back lot. The rear of which is littered with the ruins and detritus of the last century. Old cars, a fire truck still equipped with ladders on the side sits on flat tires adding more junk to the back streets. Part of the scene is the General Store in Curlew near the hotel on the main street. It fits in to this worn landscape, dilapidated and tired. The owner here also of advanced age sells items almost equal to her age. Brand new cassettes all covered in dust lie waiting for purchase. Century old posters decorate the splintered paintwork. It’s now a forgotten town Curlew, with history slowly seeping out of the old grey wooden buildings, like sand through an hourglass.

We leave Curlew, head north, and exit America. Apex, Penticton, BC is a ski town inside the Canadian border in the Okanagan region. On this occasion, we find the border guards are Canadian. Almost like magic, the landscape changes to fields and hills laden with snow.

Apex resort, a hidden gem in British Columbia

Our disposition is much improved with a few new snowflakes drifting in the occasional sunshine. Here at Apex where the vertical is surprisingly anything but the average height for a Canadian Resort, we learned, that Apex is still two hundred feet higher than Whistler.

We are greeted in the morning by wafting light snow drifting down between the large fir trees. Lovely. Our mountain host, Dale, likes Aussies, he says. Doesn’t everybody. Took us on a tour and regaled us with stories of his son and daughter and a guy named Fred Smith, an Aussie, rich, says Dale, but lives in an old camper van near the resort for the season.

Somewhat of a legend is Fred. He took his chainsaw to the firs in a steep gully here at Apex and cut his own tree glade. The management of the mountain, when they found out, were not pleased but eventually consented and included it within the ski boundary. Over our only two days at Apex we have three mountain hosts. Russill with an I, Dale with an A and Fred with an E. Dale is a character and is referred to by the local skiers as the Apex CEO.

Cruising all day down blacks that are really blue runs, we had a great time with Dale. The next day we had Fred with an E and in the afternoon Russill with an I.

Don’t tell anybody but Apex is a secret waiting to explode. Russill with an I, seemed quite excited when Ray and I suggested a shoot down the back runs over at Wildside. Double Blacks and Impossible Blacks abound. There almost seems no way down. Russill with an I said he couldn’t ski down there. He is an excellent skier in my estimation. And now Whistler beckons but the snow reports are quite ordinary. We are not surprised at this a strange season indeed. But off we go.

Apex Resort is several hundred feet higher than Whistler.

How Aspen/ Snowmass/ Highlands is Coping with Covid

January 3, 2021/4 Comments/in West/by Evelyn Kanter

A Major US Destination Resort Implements Its Virus Plan. Here’s An Early Report Card.

Line up for the Silver Queen gondola at Aspen. Credit: Evelyn Kanter

The biggest challenge ski/snowboard resorts face this season just may be lunch.

Covid-19 restrictions limit lifts to 50 percent capacity, but indoor dining restrictions are even less. That means many skiers will not be able to find a place to sit to eat, even if they are brown-bagging PBJ sandwiches.

My recent pre-holiday visit to Aspen/ Snowmass/ Highlands showed compliance to social distancing requirements often did not make sense.

Some water fountains were wrapped in plastic and not available. At others, the fountain part was shut off but the bottle refill part was operational, and at others, both parts worked fine. Bathrooms can be immediately adjacent to an entrance door, or require walking through the entire lodge.

“Quonset”-like hut provides a place to go “inside”. Credit: Evelyn Kanter

At Aspen, the large, modern and wonderful Sundeck lodge at the top of the Silver Queen Gondola has added a large Quonset hut for the overflow. But even that can accommodate only about 30 people at a time. 50-ish in the lodge, 30 in the hut, another 50-ish at outdoor tables – that’s enough for a 10am hot chocolate break, but not for the lunch crowd.

At Snowmass, Ullrhof also added a large Quonset-like hut, also for only 30 people at a time. Luckily it has a large outdoor deck area, as does Elk Camp, which has not added a heated hut. So we’re talking about 100-or-so lunchers at a time at either spot. That’s just not adequate.

At Highlands, Merry-Go-Round at the top of the main Exhibition lift from the base doesn’t even have an additional hut, which means about 50-ish people at a time inside.

None of the outdoor areas had heaters when I visited in mid-December. That’s okay for a sunny day, even a cloudy one, with temperatures in the 30s but not for a frosty zero-degree day.

The four-mountain resort has been moving visitors to online touchless ordering, which has accelerated this season. But it also is spotty.

If you have an Ikon Pass and account, or have the patience to input your credit card information on the resort app, you can pre-order food for a specific time and for pick-up at a special window. The problem is when the restaurant is at its limited capacity, and a burly security guard prevents you from entering, even to pick up the food you ordered online and already paid for online.

Limited capacity inside the “Quonset” hut. Credit: Evelyn Kanter

At Aspen, that meant waiting on line at the take-out bar, while a clearly over-worked solo employee was taking new lunch orders, handing out electronic buzzers to alert when orders were ready, and mixing drinks including Bloody Marys and Margharitas. Not the most efficient way to handle a line of hungry and thirsty skiers and riders.

My group waited nearly 20 minutes for our orders, tying up limited tables and chairs. Our soups, chilis and mac-and-cheese orders were all barely warm at pick-up, but nobody asked for a reheat, which might take another 20 minutes.

And when I traded the buzzer for my lukewarm food, the staffer simply staked it on a spindle, without sanitizing it. Maybe the stack was sanitized after I went to my table with my food. Maybe not.

By comparison, at Highlands, I was texted when my order—a grilled cheese sandwich with tomato and bacon—was ready, within five minutes of my requested pick-up time, and it was piping hot. It was the best mid-day meal I had at four lodges on three mountains (I did not ski Buttermilk, so I can’t tell you about lunch or lift lines).

Yes – spotty. Maybe they’ll fix it during the season. Maybe not. Maybe it’s better at other mountain resorts. Maybe not.

From my brief experience, it’s clear that resorts need to expand grab-and-go sandwiches, snacks, bottled drinks and outdoor seating with heaters. The option of making a meal out of a couple of granola bars, trail mix and chocolate squirreled away in our jacket pockets and consumed while going uphill is okay occasionally, but not as a steady diet. We’ve all done it to avoid long lift lines. Now we’ll do it because a chairlift or gondola is the only place we can find to sit down, until après, of course.

As for lift lines, the rule is you can go up with your friends or family, ride alone, or ride with a stranger from the singles line.

On my pre-holiday trip, lift lines ranged from 20 minutes for the Aspen gondola to ski right into the quad or six-pack. That’s pretty much standard for a non-holiday weekday, when there are normally fewer skiers wrestling for seats. It seemed to balance out—fewer skiers and riders overall because of the pandemic filling fewer available chairlift and gondola seats.

The primary job of lift attendants this season just may be to remind everybody to cover their mouths and faces. I’m one of those who lowers my neck gator on a nice day to ski with my nose and mouth exposed for easier breathing. So every time I came into the lift line there was a new additional step of pulling up my neckie.

This season, my hotel requires reservations for the pool, hot tub and gym, to manage social distancing. That was less an issue than the lack of housekeeping. At my hotel, staff enters only before check-in, to change the sheets and sanitize everything. If you request fresh towels or more coffee during your stay, housekeeping leaves a bundle outside your door.

For me, the issue was this new policy was not mentioned when I made the reservation, no discount was offered for the reduction in service, not even the offer of a few “points” on my loyalty membership program with the hotel brand. Over the years, several hotel chains have offered courtesy points if you opt to skip a linen change during your stay.

You can be sure that before my next ski trip anywhere that I ask about the housekeeping policy—if it’s not on the website—and will negotiate for either a small discount or some loyalty membership points. And so should you.

We skiers and riders always adapt—to the weather, to conditions, to the speed and expertise of those in our group—and adapting to the new reality of Covid-19 rules is no different.

EDITOR NOTE – Pritkin County, where Aspen/ Snowmass/ Highland/ Buttermilk is located, now requires a recent negative Coronavirus test for out-of-state visitors. Details here on the Pritkin County website

Reminders are everywhere. Credit: Evelyn Kanter

Early Turns At Wolf Creek

December 1, 2020/3 Comments/in West/by seniorsskiing

A Report From The First North American Ski Area To Open.

Wolf Creek, CO, opening weekend end of October. “Fall conditions”. Credit: John Farley

After the big snowstorm that dropped two feet of snow at Wolf Creek from Sunday, October 25 through Tuesday morning, October 27, Colorado’s Wolf Creek became the first ski area in the United States to open on Wednesday, October 28.

I skipped the first day to avoid the likely first-day crowd and to preserve social distancing, but did ski both Thursday and Friday.

Because of COVID, during what they are calling the “pre-season,” it is really all about skiing and nothing else at Wolf Creek. There is literally nothing open except the lifts, the ski runs, and the restrooms. No lodge, ski rentals, lessons, food service, or ski shops. Just skiing.

Since I knew that on the first days I would be in shape for nothing like a full day of skiing, I decided both days to head up around mid-day in hopes of getting a close parking spot where some early bird left. Since I would have to get into my boots at the car with no lodge open and then hike up to the lifts in my boots, it seemed to make sense to get as close a place as possible. (Note – at Wolf Creek it is a bit of an uphill hike from the parking lots to the lifts, particularly since the lift with the lowest loading area is not running yet.) My strategy worked out nicely as I got good close spots both days, though I was still huffing and puffing by the time I got up to the closest lift to the lots. Of course, with Wolf Creek’s base elevation of around 10,300 feet above sea level, it is easy to huff and puff.

But once I got to the lifts, it was well worth it. It was a beautiful day with good fall skiing conditions both days. (Note: fall skiing conditions are about the same as spring conditions, except that it is fall instead of spring.) About 40 percent of the terrain was open, including two chairlifts serving a variety of top-to-bottom runs.

On Thursday I had a chance meeting on the slopes with Girard, the new president of the Gray Wolf Ski Club, a 900-member club for over-50 skiers based in the areas around Wolf Creek. I told him it was about the third time I had spoken to any fellow member of the club in person since the pandemic started. Very strange times we live in. Girard and his wife Becky, who was elsewhere on the hill and I did not see, lived about 15 miles from us in southern Illinois, but we never met until we all retired to Pagosa Springs. I always tell them that is their fault, because for some reason they never belonged to the St. Louis Ski Club, of which I was a member for 30-plus years and am a past president.

Regarding COVID-19 protocols, in addition to the aforementioned limitation in amenities, masks are required for everyone in the parking lots, the base area, and getting on and off the lifts. However, it is OK to pull them down when actually skiing. Wolf Creek does plan to open additional amenities such as rentals, lessons, food and beverage service, etc., but the date for this has not been determined. However, the ski area itself is now open daily for the season.

You might wonder how far some people are willing to travel to ski the first and only ski area open in the United States. Apparently pretty far. On the two days I skied, I saw cars parked near mine from Tennessee, Arkansas, North Carolina, and Ohio.

Over last weekend, I had a Facebook messaging discussion with another Gray Wolf member who went up early Friday and encountered icy conditions as a result of the melt-freeze cycle and limited early season grooming. That was when I realized my strategy of going up mid-day had another benefit. By the time I got there the sun had softened up the snow and the conditions were much better than earlier. This was likely more true on Friday than on Thursday, due to the warm sunny weather that began Thursday and has continued since. Although the conditions were very good by the time I got up there, it was evident that the snow will not hold up for too long unless we get another storm, as rocks and bare spots were starting to appear here and there and the afternoon temperatures were warm. Fortunately, there appears to be another big storm coming this weekend, with the possibility of two to three feet of new snow in the San Juans. And the trend to colder temperatures and the switchover from daylight to standard time should both help to reduce any further tendency for icy conditions in the morning when the ski area opens.

[Late-Breaking Update: As of end of November, Wolf Creek is now offering private (five people) ski and snowboard lessons, reservations required. Also, Wolf Creek has now received a cumulative total of 91 inches of snow and has 98 percent of the terrain open with all lifts operating.]

Utah Preview: What You Can Expect

November 30, 2020/0 Comments/in West/by Tamsin Venn

Key Take-Away: Know Before You Go.

You can reserve for seven days between Dec. 8 and April 4 at Park City.
Credit: Park City

In these uncertain times, one thing is sure: Utah powder. As of this writing (mid-November), several Utah resorts had bases of two feet or more. Here are some updates of what you will see at Utah ski areas this winter.

In Little Cottonwood Canyon, Alta is limiting the number of parking spaces, on a first-come, first-served basis, no reservations. By contrast, Snowbird requires parking reservations, made online. In both canyons, buses have limited capacity to 20 vs. the usual 60 meaning longer waits at the stops, but UTA, the free, public bus service, plans to run nine buses it had planned to retire.

At Alta if the resort is full, you can ski if you took the bus or are staying there. Only the lodge bars are open and for guests only; check with Snow Pine Lodge. In Big Cottonwood Canyon, Solitude has pay-for-parking, and Brighton is limiting skiers based on parking. At Brighton, IKON pass holders will have to make a reservation.

Snowbasin near Ogden will essentially turn inside out. It has a ticketing yurt for faster pass pick up; rented several executive bathrooms to be placed throughout the resort; built three slopeside “food trucks”—cheese fries and burgers anyone? It has built a trail to ski right to the parking lot vs. riding the shuttle. Bus users will have a baggage check next to the stop. Parents and kids can duck in and out of a yurt village mid-mountain to warm up. You can ride the gondola alone.

Dreamcatcher at The Canyons. Plenty of snow already for the new season.

Park City has developed a reservation system for every day of the season. Starting Nov. 6 you can reserve up to seven days for the core Dec. 8-April 4 season. Up to Dec. 7 the mountain is reserved for Epic pass holders only. All tickets will be sold online. Apres-ski? Head to downtown Park City.

Booting up in the car? Powder Mountain Resort skiers are used to it. The main lodge now has sit-down dining with reservations only. The Powder Keg is closed, but still has take-out for beer and ramen. There will be “pop up specials” at various areas so you can grab food and eat it on the lift.

Keeping employees safe is a huge issue. Brian Head Resort has a team in place to temperature-check employees and do follow-up care. Workers go straight to their stations so they minimize mingling with visitors. They will receive additional training to help them triage guests’ concerns and direct them to the right resource.

Deer Valley notes it has always limited visitation based on restaurant seats not mountain capacity and will continue to follow those limits, noting that its vast acreage can accommodate many skiers. It will provide a mobile app to let you know where they can feed you immediately and where the lift lines are not.

The general idea is that ski areas will do everything they can to stay open and may have phased-in closings for indoor spaces. It could be that an area has to close for two weeks, then reopen.

The main message as you’ve heard all along is this: Know before you go.

For updates, click here.

Summit At Snoqualmie COVID Rules: Expect This At Your Local Area

November 12, 2020/2 Comments/in West/by seniorsskiing

Here’s An Example Of What You Can Expect When You Make Your First Visit To Your Favorite Local Resort.

This comes from The Summit at Snosqualmie. The video below introduces the program. Thanks to SeniorsSkiing.com correspondent Yvette Cardozo for passing it along.

SEASON PASS SALES PAUSED Season Pass sales are currently paused. When season pass sales resume, quantities and types will be limited. Prior to resuming sales we will provide an update with more information. Thank you for your patience.

SeniorsSkiing Guide: Jackson Hole—Not For Experts Only

July 25, 2020/4 Comments/in West/by Evelyn Kanter

There also are dozens of trails and cirques for the rest of us mere mortals.

Now, that’s a blue cruiser at JH looking delicious. Credit: Jackson Hole

I’ve been skiing here since I was locked into that famous and frustrating “intermediate plateau” and took a chance on defying Jackson’s reputation for experts only. Besides, the town sounded like fun, with wooden sidewalks and real cowboys coming into town from the ranches that ring the resort.

If you’ve never skied trees, this is the place to learn. The short bursts of glades under the Sweetwater Gondola or Casper chairlift are ideal, because you if you get into trouble, you can bail out to one of the blue or green groomers alongside, or just wave or shout up to a lift rider if your trouble is serious.

When you get better, head into Moran Woods, in between the Casper or Teton lifts.

I always plan my day to be at the lodge at the bottom of the Casper quad for that mid-morning pit stop, and sometimes for lunch, since it’s always less crowded than the other mid-mountain lodges and restaurants.

The Teton is one of Jackson’s newer lifts, and accesses a network of blue and green cruisers that you can take back non-stop to the base area, down some 3,000 of the resort’s massive 4,129 vertical. The Kemmerer trail off the top is named for Jay Kemmerer, who bought the resort in 1992 and credited with turning it into a world-class destination.

It’s a fast groomer that links to the Werner cruiser. That one is named for Buddy Werner, an internationally renowned ski racer and member of the US Olympic ski team, who died trying to outrace an avalanche in the Swiss Alps in 1964. You could do laps here all day. I have.

Werner was the choice of the resort’s original owner to be the first ski school director. That went instead to Pepi Steigler, who won a gold medal in slalom and a bronze in giant slalom in the 1964 Olympics. It was the same Olympics in which Jimmy Heuga and Billy Kidd became the first Americans to medal in the slalom, a couple of deep breaths behind Steigler, who ran the Jackson Hole Ski School for more than 40 years before retiring.

But I digress.

Of course, you must take the famous Jackson Hole Tram to the top, and pick your way down Rendezvous Bowl to the groomed trails below. Be sure to do it on a sunny day, unless you want to hear my near-horror story about skiing it in socked in weather. Jackson Hole often is subject to inversions, when it is bright and sunny at the bottom and socked in up top. If the tram isn’t busy in the middle of the day, that’s the reason.

My favorite spot on the mountain is Laramie Bowl, off the Thunder quad. It’s really more a funnel than a bowl, with VW-sized bumps on the right and “regular” bumps on either side of a bail-out groomer.

Jackson Hole is also a great destination for multi-generation winter vacations with the grandkids. The really young ones get to ride to their own dedicated teaching slope in a wagon powered by a snowmobile. The kids love it, and we grandparents love taking photos of it.

Where you stay in Jackson Hole depends on whether you prefer base area convenience or downtown shopping and restaurants.

JH has prioritized improving the intermediate ski and snowboard experience to give guests a variety of terrain. Here’s a blue blue. Credit: Jackson Hole

Convenience is the Teton Village base area, with hotels, condos and restaurants in all price ranges and amenity levels. Best, I think, are the Four Seasons with heated walkways for no-slip snow-free access, and the Alpenhof, with a true European vibe, one of the first hotels to open when the resort opened in 1965.

Apres ski in the Village centers around the Mangy Moose, named for the dusty taxidermy moose for which it is named.

Downtown, the premiere place to stay is the Wort Hotel, one of the members of the Historic Hotels of America group, known for its rustic charm and attentive service.

The Blue Lion is known for its elk filets. Another top dining choice is the Snake River Grill, whose menu identifies the local ranchers and farmers who supplied the lamb, pork or artisanal cheese.

Apres ski downtown means The Cowboy, which features live music and country western dancing in season. This is where I learned to two-step at free Thursday night lessons. Just keep walking past the saddle-shaped bar stools in the front to the tables dance floor in the back. The burgers are pretty good here, too.

Locals and any visitors in the know head for The Stagecoach in nearby Wilson, at the base of the Teton Pass, on Sunday nights. A five-piece band has played here for more than 40 years, including a few of the originals still wielding a banjo or guitar. Be forewarned that the repertoire is usually sprinkled with a few ditties that could make a sailor blush.

Take an afternoon off the slopes to visit the National Elk Refuge just outside town, where thousands of these majestic creatures spend the winter. If you time it correctly, you can also visit the National Museum of Wildlife Art on the other side of the road, with its impressive collection of landscape paintings and Remington sculptures.

Jackson Hole is a member of both Ikon Pass and Mountain Collective, neither of which provide discounts for seniors. If the only place you intend to ski or ride this season is Jackson Hole, the best deal for the 2020/21 season is the Plus Pass, which offers 25 days of lift access for $505.

Click here for Jackson Hole Trail Map

Click here for Jackson Hole Web Cams

Buying A Season Pass In The Covid Year

May 21, 2020/8 Comments/in West/by Harriet Wallis

[Editor Note: This article first appeared in the Cottonwood Heights Journal on May 18, 2020. The situation unfolding in Utah is similar to what is happening in other regions of North America.]

Wish the rules for buying a season pass were as clear as the skies over Alta. Credit: Harriet Wallis

A Season Pass Is A Complicated Decision.

Gone are the days of one deadline, one price. This year, season passes are a jigsaw puzzle.

It’s complicated by multi-mountain season passes, narrow canyon road congestion, and the now the virus. Each resort has its own spin on passes. You almost need a PhD and a crystal ball to figure out what’s right for you.

A Roundup Of What To Look For.

Deadlines for the best price. Deadlines are all over the place. Some deadlines are as early as this month (May) while others have been extended. And some resorts haven’t specified a deadline.

Discounts because of virus-shortened season. Some resorts are offering discounts on their 2020-21 passes. But the formula for discount varies from resort to resort. Some resorts have other options, too.

Budget plans. Some resorts let you buy your pass now and pay for it in installments.

Change-your-mind assurance. Some resorts let you buy a pass now and change your mind later if you decide you don’t want to ski next season. Options include pushing your pass forward into the 2021-22 season. Those change-your-mind deadlines vary all over the place.

Blackout dates / no blackouts. Yep, that varies too.

One resort, adult season pass. The plain vanilla, “adult pass at one resort, ski any day you want” has gone into tailspin. Some resorts have replaced it with family deals, midweek only deals, and pack of ticket deals.

Highlights Of Resorts In The Region.

Powder Mountain. A season pass includes supplemental injury insurance should you crash and break a bone. A season pass for seniors 75+ is $40.

Snowbasin. If you had a pass last year, you can choose a 20% discount or partial refund on a 2020-21 pass. Or you can donate the amount to one of several charities.

Brighton. It has the clearest explanation of how the Assurance “what-if-I decide-not-to-ski” plan works. While details vary from resort to resort, Brighton’s Q ad A page gives the best point-by-point explanation so you can absorb it.

Deer Valley. It has the best side-by-side comparison chart for comparing a Deer Valley season pass with an Ikon pass. It eliminates the mumbo-jumbo. A Deer Valley pass comes with multiple benefits.

Snowbird. Snowbird prices passes for 9 different age ranges and occupations. It also offers valet and preferred parking passes.

Solitude. If you had a pass last year, you’re eligible for discounted season pass for car parking this year. And this year you can register two cars on your parking pass — but you can use the pass for only one car at a time. Solitude also offers a mid-week only adult pass.

Park City Mountain. The Epic pass lets you ski Park City plus a gazillion other mountains around the world. But to take advantage of all that, you can’t possibly be working full time. For some, not working might be a reality this winter.

IMPORTANT: Two resorts haven’t posted prices yet.

Alta is taking a wait-and-see approach. Rather than rushing to grab skiers’ money, it’s being cautious because of the virus. Alta told skiers it will let them know about passes when it has a better look down the road.

Sundance has not posted prices.

Senior Small Group Ski Week With Lodging Right On Uncrowded Powder Mountain

March 19, 2020/7 Comments/in West/by Harriet Wallis

Plan Now For Next Winter

Seniors participating in Life Elevated Utah having fun and acting silly for the camera. Credit: Harriet Wallis

Gary and Sandy Nielsen have run Road Scholar programs in Utah for about 20 years. They’re experts at planning and organizing week-long programs including Hopi pottery, dinosaurs and rock hounding in summer—and the very popular senior ski program in winter.

But several years ago as the demand for more senior ski weeks kept growing, Gary and Sandy responded with an idea of their own. They created new, small group ski weeks especially for seniors, and they base the programs at Powder Mountain. It’s ski weeks with all the trimmings.

Gary and Sandy cookin’ up Eggs Benedict for breakfast. Credit: Harriet Wallis

Gary invited me to experience the program. As I entered the little lodge’s great room, the first thing I saw was an inviting table with every beverage a tired skier could want: refreshing lemon water, coffee, tea, cocoa, a selection of wine with nice glasses, and plenty of cold beer in the fridge. Such enormous hospitality! As the skiers came in, they chose a beverage and settled into the sofas to retell the day’s adventures. And that was just the beginning.

When it came time for dinner, we gathered around a beautifully set table and enjoyed huge portions of roast salmon, fresh asparagus, baked potatoes, and a crisp tossed salad. There are seconds! Then came dessert: steaming homemade peach cobbler topped with vanilla ice cream. Gary and Sandy love to cook. Every meal was just as spectacular.

“When Gary and Sandy run a program, I know it’s going to be good,” said Henry, a repeat skier.

About The Programs

Gary explained how the ski weeks work. “Powder Mountain is known as ‘Utah’s Best Kept Secret’ and through our nonprofit organization called Life Elevated Utah,” we have been running week-long ski programs for older skiers between the ages of 60-90+ for the past few years.

“We stay right at the base of the mountain in a comfortable 1980s style lodge. This is a true ski-in, a ski-out experience in which our older skiers simply love. We only have five hotel rooms, each with a private bathroom. The rooms have great views of the slopes looking out from each room’s patio doors.

“Our programs are six days of skiing Monday-Saturday with programs beginning and ending each Sunday. We provide transportation to/from SLC Airport, cover seven nights lodging, prepare three delicious meals a day for our small ski groups in our kitchen in the lodge. We help set up ski lessons, mountain tours, and many other ski amenities,” he said.

“I know they really care about me,” said Kathy, a repeat skier. They make sure every detail is just right. This program has just the right number of people, but not too many. I used to do all the ski trip planning when my family was young, but this is so much better. They take care of everything.”

Life’s Lessons Achieved

Gary was one of five children, and it was a family rule that when you turned eight years old you learned how to cook dinners for the family. The cooking lessons stuck, and along the way he developed a specialty catering business. “Chef” is in his soul.

Travel planning has also been in his soul since he was young, and he’s skilled at it. He has degrees in Recreation Management, specializing in travel and tours, and a degree in Business Management. It all fits together.

Looking To Next Season

This really is a best kept secret. Gary and Sandy don’t have a website. So, to get information for next year’s Powder Mountain senior ski weeks, email gary@lifeelevatedutah.org

Seniors like to ski with seniors, but finding a program is as difficult as looking for a Yeti. Interestingly, Road Scholar has eliminated all western downhill ski programs for 2021. Just one ski eastern Road Scholar program continues.

Small group of seniors on big Powder Mountain: 8,400 acres with 154 trails. Credit: Harriet Wallis

Your Support Helps!

Deer Valley Resort is just easier. Easier to ski, easier to get to, easier to gear up for the day (free overnight ski and boot check). As a senior skier, I’m totally on board with that.

Your Support Helps!

The first thing one notices about the terrain at Crested Butte is the jagged, arrowhead shaped mountain peak thrusting into the sky. The base of the mountain is 9,820’, and lifts take you to a notch, several hundred feet below its 12,162’ summit.

Sometimes life exceeds expectation. That’s what I’ve found with winter ranches in the Rockies.

In 1991, while guiding a small group in Yellowstone National Park, I tried to describe walking outside as the sun rose one February morning near Old Faithful:

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Take A Virtual Vacation And A Long Run On Us.

Our Traveling Australian Skier Recalls Characters, Odd Places, And Skiing In The US/Canadian West.

A Major US Destination Resort Implements Its Virus Plan. Here’s An Early Report Card.

A Report From The First North American Ski Area To Open.

Here’s An Example Of What You Can Expect When You Make Your First Visit To Your Favorite Local Resort.

There also are dozens of trails and cirques for the rest of us mere mortals.

A Season Pass Is A Complicated Decision.

Plan Now For Next Winter

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