Deer Valley Resort: Great Skiing; Great Service; Great Food

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Like many of its patrons, Deer Valley is extremely well-groomed. Source: Deer Valley

Deer Valley Resort is just easier. Easier to ski, easier to get to, easier to gear up for the day (free overnight ski and boot check). As a senior skier, I’m totally on board with that.

A few minutes drive or free bus from ski town Park City, UT, the base at Snow Park Lodge (7,200 feet) is the main starting point to these well-manicured slopes and to the reliable, friendly staff in their forest-green uniforms. Some will still carry your skis from the car.

Most of the skiing (snowboarders not allowed) rises above Bald Eagle Mountain (8,400 feet), putting you at Silver Lake Lodge. From here, you have access to skiing at Bald and Flagstaff Mountains with intermediate runs. Quincy Express offers short, fun intermediate trails off Northside Express like Sidewinder, Lost Boulder, and Lucky Star. Use the singles line to lap these more quickly. Veer skiers’ right on top of Bald and ski the double blues and blacks and iconic Stein’s Run overlooking the Jordanelle Reservoir off Sultan Lift.

It’s a feast: 2,000 acres of skiing over six peaks. All have a beginner or intermediate run from the top. When we were there early March, groomed runs numbered 62 out of 103, more than half.

Deer Valley Winterscape. Source: Deer Valley

Grooming status is posted on boards at the top of lifts. For the chutes and trees, do what my daughter and her boyfriend do, use a walkie-talkie. One goes first, and the other radios back, “Don’t come down here.”

After a splendid lunch at Empire Canyon Lodge (fish tacos with grilled Scottish salmon, Deer Valley turkey chili, seasonal salads, Mac and Cheese with raclette – the resort is well known for good dining — hop on Empire Express to Empire Peak (9,570 feet, highest elevation). Here you ski bumps or powder in the steep bowls. Most cruise the intermediate groomers. More options are one lift over at Lady Morgan Express.

Deer Valley is always fun… especially on a powder day. Source: Deer Valley

The mountain ops staff clear the glades for well-spaced tree skiing. This year they thinned out three new low-angle, easily accessible, glades, giving seniors a chance to ski the trees like they used to, no tree hugging. Ask a mountain host stationed at the trail map billboards for their locations.

Deer Valley was crowded on the weekend we were there (parking lot and access road full) and was close to restricting ticket sales. The 12 high-speed chairlifts keep people moving though.

Next season, it will only offer access (seven days) on the Ikon Base Plus Pass, not the Ikon Base Pass, presumably to help keep skier numbers down.

I met several older skiers on the lifts, transplants from the East, skiing on a DV senior season pass grateful, despite a recent price hike, they could freely choose the best conditions.

DV Stats

2,026 acres

Base elevation 6,570 feet; summit 9,570 feet

103 ski runs, 6 bowls, 21 chairlifts

Longest vertical, 1,380 feet off Little Baldy

Average annual snowfall: 300 inches

27 percent beginner, 41 percent intermediate, 32 percent expert terrain

Prices:

Full day senior pass, 65 and older: $134-$187 (to April 17, conditions permitting)

Season Pass (22/23 season) 65 and older: $1,995

Crested Butte

Skiing Crested Butte

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Source: Travel Crested Butte

The first thing one notices about the terrain at Crested Butte is the jagged, arrowhead shaped mountain peak thrusting into the sky. The base of the mountain is 9,820’, and lifts take you to a notch, several hundred feet below its 12,162’ summit.

There’s lots to like about skiing Crested Butte: beaucoup, well-groomed beginner, intermediate and expert trails spread over ~3,000 feet of vertical;  121 runs in all, 23% beginner, 57% intermediate and 20% expert.

The runs off the East River and Paradise Express lifts – hallelujah, they have footrests – are an intermediate’s dream with rolling terrain coupled with some interesting pitches. Or, if you prefer greens, you can yo-yo up and down Red Lady Express. In fact, all the lifts with the word Express in the name, have footrests!

If you like it steep, groomed, or ungroomed, ride Silver Queen Express and pick International or Keystone. Both were groomed when my brother and I were there a few weeks ago. They have challenging steep pitches and are gratifying to ski. If your knees can handle moguls, Joker, Crystal, or Twister await.

Source: Travel Crested Butte

If you’re more adventurous, take Paradise Express and ski to the North Face Lift which provides access to several steep tree runs. You’ll end on the intermediate Black Eagle Trail that will take you to the bottom of the East River Express. Be advised, some hiking may be required to ski the areas served by North Face.

Good news for senior skiers: on-hill lodge restrooms tend to be on the same level as the snow. At the base, they’re downstairs but serviced by elevator!!!

Accommodations are plenty. There are condos at the base of the area in what is known as Mount Crested Butte. Crested Butte is owned by Vail Resorts, and our Epic passes got us skiing and a 20% discount off the nightly rate at a condo 500 feet from the lift and discounts at some of the stores, bars, and restaurants.

According to my iPhone, the town of Crested Butte is 2.8 miles down the road, where you’ll find plenty of restaurants and stores. Gunnison is 27 miles to the south and has its own charm. If you stay in a condo and want to bring food, Gunnison’s City Market is well stocked and reasonably priced.

We reserved gear via Black Tie Ski Rentals. They bring the equipment right to your condo.

Gunnison is the nearest air-carrier served airport with direct flights from Dallas, Houston, and Denver. From the Dallas -Fort Worth Metroplex, Crested Butte is, weather permitting, about a 13-hour drive. From the  Denver area, it is 4 – 5 hours.

Would we go back? Oh yeah!!!

Four Bucket List New England Cross Country Ski Towns

XCSkiResorts.com recommends these classic New England towns and areas for a cross country  ski vacation:

Stowe, VT, is quintessential New England with its white steepled church and main street lined with stores.

Source: Trapp Family Lodge

  • It’s also the home of the Trapp Family Lodge of Sound of Music fame. Trapp Family Lodge has a 110 km trail network with 60 km of groomed and machine-tracked trails. Stowe has a full range of dining and shopping options. Other nearby XC resorts include Bolton Valley, Stowe Cross Country Center, and Edson Hill.

Woodstock, VT is another winter mecca with inns, restaurants, unique shops, and a national historical park.

  • The Woodstock Nordic Center operated by The Woodstock Inn & Resortoffers two trail systems right in town covering more than 45 km. The Mount Peg trails begin on the golf course at and climb to the summit overlooking the village below. On nearby Mt. Tom, the Center grooms more than 20 km of trails on old carriage roads in the midst of Vermont’s first tree farm and Marsh-Billings-Rockefeller National Historical Park.

The Mt. Washington Valley in the White Mountains of New Hampshire has some of the best cross-country skiing in the East.

  • “Enchanting” is the best word to describe Jackson, the paragon of New England towns and home to Jackson Ski Touring Foundation, a non-profit organization chartered to provide and maintain XC trails on more than 80 private properties and national forest. Country inns are scattered throughout the region. The base lodge is accessed through a scenic covered bridge.

Covered bridge at Jackson Ski Touring Center, New Hampshire Photo: Roger Lohr

  • Great Glen Outdoors at the base of Mount Washington is a magnificent setting with 45 kilometers of XC skiing, snowshoeing, and an ol’ fashioned tubing hill. Great Glen’s scenic trail system offers an enjoyable combination of well-protected spruce and fir-lined trails plus wide-open areas with breathtaking views of Mt. Washington and surrounding peaks. On the trails is the classic New England Glen House Hotel, with 68 rooms, a pub and restaurant. For even more adventure, enjoy a comfortable winter tour on the 9-passenger Mt. Washington SnowCoach, which transports guests to an unforgettable journey to a sub-Artic world on Mt. Washington.

Skiing at Bretton Woods, NH Photo: Roger Lohr

  • Bretton Woods Nordic Center is a thriving cross country ski center on the grounds of the Omni Mt. Washington Hotel. It. The grand Bretton Woods hotel has 100 km of XC ski laced throughout 1,700 acres of spectacular scenery. The Mountain Road, accessed via a lift at the Bretton Woods alpine ski area, offers spectacular vistas of Mt. Washington from a 7 km groomed trail down to Route 302.

Bethel, Maine is home to the Bethel Inn and Carter’s XC Ski Center, and Sunday River Resort’s alpine ski trails. The town settled in 1774, retains its small-town lifestyle.

Bethel Inn Resort , Bethel, ME

  • The XC ski trails, which meander through forest to a picturesque, covered bridge are canine friendly. Several inns along the trails are operated by the nonprofit Bethel Inland Woods and Trails organization. The Carter’s XC Ski Center has beautiful views of the Mahoosuc and Presidential mountain ranges. Alpine skiing, dogsledding trips, and snowmobile rentals are available nearby.

Many businesses in each of these New England ski towns organize special events on winter weekends and vacation weeks to encourage people to get out and enjoy the snow.

If you’re into XC skiing and keep a bucket list, Stowe and Woodstock, VT, the Mt. Washington Valley, and Bethel, Maine are classic New England destinations not to be missed.

SeniorsSkiing Guide: Holiday Valley

Are there powder days in Western New York? Can Pete Widger yodel?

 

Yes, to both. In fact, septuagenarian Widger, the voice of Holiday Valley’s Snow Phone, will lace his conditions report with his trademark vocals every powder day of the season.

Holiday Valley’s powder comes compliments of Lake Erie’s snow machine, the same lake-effect system that gives Buffalo its arctic reputation.

Holiday Valley, in Ellicottville, Cattaraugus County, averages about 180 inches of snow per season. In addition, the resort’s snowmaking staff is able to cover 95 percent of the resort’s terrain with its 611 snow guns.

Holiday Valley’s peak elevation is 2,250 feet, a rise of 750 feet from its 1,500-foot base elevation.

It boasts 60 trails, served by 13 lifts (including three high-speed quads) over 290 acres. Green trails make up 37 percent of those runs, blue, 25 percent, black, 37 percent and double-black, 2 percent.

For a good warmup, take the Mardi Gras lift for a slide down Candy Cane, a green trail, with options for a blue Crystal Bottom. Or start blue with Independence or even black with Yodeler or Champagne. North Wind upper and lower trails are also accessible from this lift as are a variety of other lift-and-trail combos.

On the facing hillside, Cindy’s Run, accessible by Cindy’s Quad, is a challenging blue. Cindy’s can lead to black options such as Foxfire, Wall Top and the double-black Wall.

It is easy to spend a day at Holiday Valley mixing your trail colors and lifts. Most every skier will find challenges and satisfaction.

Comfy lodge at the bottom. Trails for all abilities at HV. Credit: Craig Melvin

The resort’s beginnings can be traced to the late 1930s when enterprising enthusiasts built a tow from an old truck and built a little warming hut. The operation has moved from slope to slope in the Ellicottville area. The current lodge site was established in the 1960s and the resort has grown from there.

The club atmosphere of those days has endured, said Jane Eshbaugh, director of marketing at Holiday Valley, “Especially in this part of the country, skiing is very social, we see many senior groups skiing together or having coffee or dining.”

“We have so many generations at Holiday Valley. We really market to families, but that includes parents, grandparents and great-grand parents,” Eshbaugh said.

One perk for senior pass holders is the ability to add a grandchild at an additional family rate.  At Holiday Valley, loyalty pays. Skiers 65 to 69 can receive 5 percent of a Classic Pass. But if a senior skier has purchased a Season Pass or Ultimate Pass for the past five years, the discount goes to 25 percent. For those 70-plus, the initial discount is 10 percent and 50 percent for those with pass purchases the past five years.

Holiday Valley gets regular snow dumps from lake-effect storms. Nice coating on trees. Credit: Craig Scott

Holiday Valley’s employment rolls are well-populated with seniors. From office and maintenance to on-slope duties such as Ski Patrol, Ski School Instructors and Safety Patrollers.

Because Holiday Valley lies close to Canada (about an hour from the Canadian border), there are often as many Ontario plates in the parking lot as those from New York. The resort features, Canadian Friendship Week, during which lift tickets and rentals are at par with Canadian cash. It’s hard to ride the lifts on a busy day that week without meeting fellow skiers from, say, Toronto or Niagara Falls.

Lift lines, however, are rather rare at Holiday Valley. The lifts are efficient and only on the busiest days are there people waiting to ride.

Holiday Valley offers a number of lodging and dining options, and nearby Ellicottville is a friendly and hip little Eastern ski town.

The nearest large airport is Buffalo International, about 60 minutes away. Cleveland, Pittsburgh and Rochester are about two to three hours away by car.

CLICK HERE FOR HOLIDAY VALLEY TRAIL MAP

CLICK HERE FOR HOLIDAY VALLEY WEBSITE

 

SeniorsSkiing Guide: Historic Dartmouth SkiWay

Big Mountain Fun And Small Mountain Friendly With History All Around.

Corduroy in the morning. Dartmouth Skiway has a mix of twisty narrow and open groomers. Credit: TheSnowWay.com

Dartmouth Skiway in Lyme Center, NH was founded in 1956. After six decades the ski area has recently hired only the fourth director in its history. Mark Adamczyk who was the director of outdoor adventure at the Winter Park Resort in Colorado will replace Doug Holler, who is retiring at the end of this season after 19 years on the job.

The Skiway rock guards the entrance to the big, green lodge. That’s Dartmouth green, BTW. Credit: Roger Lohe

The Skiway as it is known locally is family-friendly and reasonably priced with 20-30 runs of terrain that will serve first timers or challenge skiers and riders of all ages and abilities. One-on-one teaching for beginners through advanced skiing is a tradition at the ski area that includes two mountains, a clean, comfortable lodge, a rental shop, and a food court. Visit the area and you’ll see not only kids learning to ski in a beginner area and older skiers doing snowplow turns on the trails, but also ski racers from Dartmouth College training and clacking through the gates.

The Holt’s Ledge side of the resort has a double chair while there is a quad chair and a conveyer lift on the Winslow side. The McLane Family Lodge is open and airy with plenty of space. The large wooden tables and benches and stone fireplace give the lodge a rustic appeal of skiing in the old days. You’ll see after-school groups at the Skiway during the week, but even on weekends the slopes are uncrowded and the lift lines minimal. Dartmouth Skiway has more than 100 skiable acres including tight off-piste trails and glades for advanced patrons, 968 foot vertical drop, and 16,000 square foot lodge.

Watching the races at the Holt’s Ledge, circa 1960. Credit: Dartmouth.edu

This area is quite historical in the world of skiing and ski racing. More than 100 national and Olympic champions have trained at Dartmouth Skiway. The Dartmouth Skiing Wall of Fame on the first floor of the lodge reveals a Who’s Who of ski legends.

Calling the lift ticket prices at Dartmouth Skiway reasonable is an understatement. Adult midweek lift passes are $33 (weekend $58) and half day prices available for morning or afternoon are available for only $28. Prices are lower for teens and children while senior skiers pay only $27 a day or $22 for a half day, and super seniors age 80 and over ski or ride for free! There are low priced season leases for equipment and packages to learn skiing or riding (with private lessons). The beginner area is $14 all day, and there is a Skiway Special on Monday and Tuesday for $23 during non-holiday periods.

From a personal view, the Skiway was about 15 minutes from my home in Hanover, and much of my family ski lore occurred there. Each day of the week there was a different town after-school ski program. I ran the Ford Sayre snowboard program for a number of years there, hiring Hanover High School kids (including my son and daughter) to teach and chaperone hundreds of younger kids in small groups. On a recent visit to the Skiway following a full day snowstorm, I was greeted by the woman at the ticket window stating, “Some things never change, it’s no surprise seeing you here on a powder day.” Riding on and off trail with my kids at Dartmouth Skiway is a deep-rooted part of my family history and on-snow soul.

Dartmouth Skiway is 15 minutes from I-91 Exit 14. For more information  click here. 603-795-2143.

For a Dartmouth Skiway trail map, click here.

For Dartmouth Skiway web cam, click here.

Skiway has a museum in the lodge reflecting 60+ years of history. Credit: Roger Lohr.

SeniorsSkiing Guide: Ragged Mountain

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Ragged Has All The Features Seniors Love: Great Trails, Low Crowds, Modest Prices.

Ragged Mtn, Danbury, NH, has two peaks. Credit: Ragged Mtn.

Located less than two hours from Boston, Ragged Mountain in Danbury, NH offers skiers and boarders a wide variety of terrain from a perfect learning area for beginners to some challenging glades for the expert. It’s truly a family mountain as all trails lead back to the quintessential New England base area.

Ragged’s beginner terrain is ideal for learning. There are two carpet lifts serving very gentle terrain that provides a slope that will not threaten or frighten new skiers. From there they can progress to the Barnyard Triple serving a slope perfect for working on turns and building confidence. The whole beginner area is located off to the side of the main mountain, keeping it separate from the better, faster skiers coming off the summit.

Magic Carpet ride for beginners. Credit: Ragged Mtn.

Two high speed lifts serve the area’s two main peaks. A detachable, high speed six passenger chair, New Hampshire’s only sixpack, whisks skiers and riders to the summit of Ragged Mountain in about five minutes. A detachable quad takes about the same amount of time to reach the Spear Mountain summit. From the Ragged peak a variety of trails from easy green to black diamond wind their down. Skiers and riders are able to navigate from the summit to base on all green or all blue trails or a combination of the two. There are some shorter black diamonds on the upper mountain and a couple of top to bottom ones as well. Several steep glades connect Ragged summit to the trails on Spear. Spear Mountain has three main trails down with one called Cardigan being the easiest and longest way down. Flying Yankee is sometimes closed for racing but when open is a nice intermediate cruiser. Showboat, under the lift, is a steeper pitch and is great for what its name implies. There are half a dozen black glades on Spear, open only with natural snow but great fun when the cover is good. There are three terrain parks, including a small introductory one in the Barnyard learning area.

The area first opened in 1965 and being an older mountain, the trails are interesting and varied, from wide and open to narrow and twisting. Their grooming crew does an excellent job. Even in a challenging winter like this one all open trails have been in great shape.

The Learning Center offers the unique Bebe Wood Free Learn-to-Ski or Ride Program for beginners of all ages to be introduced to snow sports without risk to their wallet. This program – it really is free! – offers three two-hour lessons, with rental equipment and a lower mountain lift ticket for no charge. Following graduation from the program students can purchase discounted equipment and seasons passes. It’s named after long time Ragged employee Bebe Wood who worked there until she was in her nineties.

The attractive and well thought out base area is easy to navigate. There you’ll find the Elmwood Lodge, the Meetinghouse Lodge and the Guest Services building all designed with skiers in mind. The Elmwood Lodge, with its attached Red Barn, houses three restaurants. Birches features table service and an upscale menu of classic American cuisine and lovely mountain views of Ragged’s slopes. If you’re there to watch one of the races held on the Main Street trail and don’t want to stand outside, this is the spot to be. The Stone Hearth Bar, located in the Red Barn, serves up lunches and snacks as well as thirst quenching adult beverages including some new and delightful beers brewed at the Flying Goose in nearby New London. Check out the newest one—Rags to Riches. A huge stone fireplace and weekend entertainment complete the picture here. The Harvest Café is great for a quick lunch or snack with soups, sandwiches, items from the grill and more. There’s plenty of table space in the lodge and the bar’s stone fireplace extends to two floors and provides a cheerful spot to warm up.

The Meetinghouse Lodge houses the Learning Center, the rental shop and more gathering space for changing and picnic lunches.

Although a little off the beaten path, Ragged is accessible either via Interstate 89 or 93 followed by a 20- to 30-minute drive on lightly traveled secondary roads. While not the largest of mountains, its 1250’ of vertical, short lift lines and uncrowded trails reward skiers and riders with plenty of time on the hill in a relaxed atmosphere. It is well worth the trip!

Tickets And Passes

Lift Tickets: Seniors (65+-79) $62 Weekend/Holiday, $52 Midweek,  $51 Four Hour Weekend/Holiday, $45 Four-Hour Midweek, 80+ Free

Season Passes: From $349-519, All ages. Purchase of a season pass provides access to four additional resorts: Jay Peak, Pats Peak, Ski Butternut, Whaleback

Click Here For Ragged Mountain Trail Map

Click Here For Ragged Mountain Web Cam

There’s the base lodge down there. Credit: Ragged Mtn.

 

 

SeniorsSkiing Guide: Windham—A Gem In The Catskills

A Mid-Week Senior Program Includes Clinics, Group Lunch, Yoga, Plus.

Windham is 2 1/2 hours from NYC and has something for everyone.

Driving from New Hampshire through Vermont to Windham Mountain in the Catskills of New York on a recent weekend I felt some trepidation as to what I would find. There had been rain, lots of it, and temperatures reaching 60 degrees over the course of the weekend. Arriving at the mountain on Monday mornin,g it was not looking promising – lots of bare ground and brown spots. But everyone in our group was game to try it out so we booted up and headed for the lift.

And what a pleasant surprise was in store for us! There had been a small window of snowmaking temperatures Sunday night,, and the mountain crew made full use of it. While it didn’t allow any new trails to be opened, it did a wonderful job of patching and spot resurfacing. The groomers smoothed out the surfaces, and, though only a small percentage of the trails were open, those skied very nicely on softish, granular sugar snow.

Snowmaking is robust and widespread at Windham.

Windham is a sizable mountain with a 1600’ vertical. To me, it feels like a much bigger mountain. There are 54 trails, ranging in length from 300 to over 12,000 feet, serviced by a total of 11 lifts including a high speed six pack and two high speed quads. Snowmaking covers 97 percent of its trails and slopes.  Much of that is fully automated, making it very responsive to changing weather conditions. There were several trails open off the Westside Six, the six-pack going to the West Peak summit, and the Wonderama Express Quad.  We found enough good skiing to keep us entertained over the course of a day and a half. An Express Quad took us up to East Peak where we found a couple of good runs including Wanderer, a long, easy cruiser that sweeps along the ridge at the edge of the resort and eventually winds its way to the base. All were in agreement that the mountain ops crew did a fantastic job in recovering from the “R” event prior to our arrival.

The modern, airy base lodge houses a spacious cafeteria on the ground floor and a table service restaurant with an upscale menu upstairs. Also on the upper level is a private club with its own food service and lounge areas.

The resort has spent more than $12 million in the last two years to elevate the guest experience, and it is quite apparent from snowmaking to grooming to base area and resort amenities.

Midweek Program Just For Seniors

Windham boasts an active 50+ Midweek program which runs for eight Tuesdays from early January to early March. There’s an optional yoga program at the beginning of each day followed by on snow clinics with the instructors then a group lunch. During lunch, there are presentations on snowmaking, product reviews, what’s happening at Windham, and various other topics of general interest. The program currently has more than 70 participants who come from New York City and its environs as well as the local area. The Midweek program costs $250, pass not included.

You can ski the big race courses on the simulator. Credit: Joan Wallen

The Adaptive Sports Foundation has partnered with the mountain to bring in the Ski and Ride Simulator which provides real skiing and riding in virtual reality. Used by the race teams for training, it is also available to the public for a fee. Skiers and riders of all ages can test themselves on virtual race courses from around the globe simulating real World Cup and Olympic courses. From grandparents to grandkids, it can an enjoyable challenging to all. A portion of the proceeds help support the Adaptive Sports Foundation.

The Alpine Spa, kids snowmobiling, snow tubing and ice skating will keep everyone – kids to parents to grandparents – busy when not on the slopes.

While we didn’t get to ski all of Windham, what we experienced was great and certainly whetted the appetite making us eager to return when the mountain is fully operational to explore what is truly big mountain skiing just 2 ½ hours from New York City.

Tickets And Passes

Day tickets for 65-74 are $76; 75+ is $70. Windham also offers a four-hour Flex Ticket good for any four consecutive hours. 65-74, $52; 75+, $35.

Season Passes, 65-74, $659; 75+, $229. A Sunday-Friday mid-week pass is $549 for all ages.

Click here for Windham Mountain Web Cam.

Click here for Windham Mountain Trail Map

The base area is the hub of activity with lifts radiating out.

 

 

SeniorsSkiing Guide: Snowshoe Mountain

The Longest White Winters South of the Mason-Dixon Line.

Start at the top at Snowshoe Mountain Resort, WV, Credit: Snowshoe Mountain

Most ski resorts have their hotels and restaurants in a valley. Some resorts have hotels at the bottom of the slope and some restaurants at the top. But Snowshoe Mountain Ski resort has everything at the top of the hill. People call it “an upside-down ski resort”. Imagine a cherry on top of the mountain cake, decorated by snow and a picturesque lake. While Snowshoe is located less than a five-hour ride from the Washington, D.C. metro area, it is indeed as “wild and wonderful” as the rest of West Virginia.

The elevation of the resort is 4,848 ft, the second-highest point in the state. That is quite high by Mid-Atlantic standards. The location and the weather combined with modern snowmaking equipment gives Snowshoe a reason to guarantee “more open terrain than any other resort in the region.”

The resorts looks compact, cute, and cozy. The restaurants, bars, and stores are located in the pedestrian area. By the way, tap water here is clean and tastes better than many types of bottled water. The layout of the condos and hotels is designed to protect you and your car from snow and wind.

The resort has three ski areas: Snowshoe Basin, Western Territory, and Silver Creek. The majority of the slopes are senior skier friendly. One local Ski Patroller has noted that certain guests who have limited experience on small Southern hills, challenge each other on the black slopes of Snowshoe. The black slopes are not as wild as in the Rockies, but are still challenging for the beginners and enjoyable for experienced skiers.

According to one of the Slope Safety Volunteers, more than half of the resort volunteers are retirees residing here. One day I noticed a snowboarder with a big stick and decided that it was just another selfie maniac. Later I got a chance to talk to this 60+ year old ski and snowboard veteran. He uses a monopod (photography tool) to maneuver on flat areas and around the ski lifts. He skied for decades, but recently decided to switch to snowboarding because of joint pain. He found that his knees felt better on a snowboard than on skis.

In case you need a break from skiing, go visit The Green Bank Science Center, which is only 20 min away. The resort is active in summertime. Besides riding on bicycles, the guests enjoy golfing, boating, and hiking.

Useful facts:

Snowshoe offers an 800 ft vertical drop, 60 trails, 13 lifts, 250 acres of slopes, and 180 inches of natural snow annually.

An adult daily pass is $79 on a weekday and $109 on a weekend, and for people over 75 years old, it is $39 on any day of the season. A seasonal pass for those older than 70 costs $499 in 2019-2020. The resort is part of the IKON ski pass system.

For a Snowshoe Mountain Trail Map, click here.

For live web cams, click here.

SeniorsSkiing Guide: Mammoth Update

Spring Skiing Paradise

First run of the morning from top of Lift 5. Credit: Marc Liebman

Editor Note: As of April 12, even more snow has fallen on the Sierra Nevada since this report was written.

Mammoth is known for its late closings, generally after Memorial Day, but this year, closing is scheduled for July 4th!  On April 1st, the snow depth at the top of the 11,059 ft. mountain was a 230 inches, about 20 feet. At the McCoy Station, it drops to 195 ft. and at the base, it’s 160 ft.  Temperature at the top is in the high teens and at the base, in the low 20s.  It will feel warmer due to the bright sun, but the high may not reach 30 so bring your suntan lotion because you’ll need it.

Conditions vary from packed powder to packed powder.  There’s a few slightly slushy (on April 2nd) spots near the base, places where there is lots of sun, the conditions make it soft, but for 95% of the trails, the conditions are near perfect.  And, by the way, it still snows a lot in April.

Every night, trails are groomed and black diamond runs have a smooth path through the moguls.  Frozen granular exists in a few places, bare spots are non-existent, and it will be weeks before they appear.

So here’s what lots of snow does for you.  Off Lifts 9 and 25, there are glades.  In February, there’s 15 to 20 feet between the trees.  Now, with 200+ inches on the ground, there’s 50 feet between the trees because you’re skiing among the treetops.  It makes glade skiing a joy.

Mammoth is a mecca for snowboarders.  It has eight, count’em eight, terrain parks for boarders.

For seniors, 40% of the runs are listed as intermediate (all of which are groomed daily) and 35% expert.  Better yet, on every level of the Canyon, Main, Eagle Lodges, and the McCoy Station, there are bathrooms on every level so there’s no stairs to climb.  At the Canyon, Main and Eagle, there are also many banks of lockers.  When you enter Canyon Lodge, you are greeted by an escalator that takes you up a floor, walk another 20 feet to a second escalator and then its about 100 feet to where you put your skis on to pick up Canyon Express (Lift 17).

Parking is limited at all of the base areas that offer vehicle access.  My recommendation is take a hotel shuttle or local bus that drops you off at the lodge of your choice so you don’t have to walk to/from your parked car.

Mammoth was purchased by Alterra Corporation (Aspen Ski Corporation and a private equity firm called KSL Partners) in 2017 and is in the midst of a $100 million upgrade.  Buy your tickets in advance because they are really pricey if you walk up to the window.  Grandkids under 12 ski free.

Lifts open at the base at 8:30 a.m.  Two are six-seaters, 11 are high-speed quads, five are triples and three are old-fashioned doubles.  The Village Gondola takes skiers from Mammoth Village opens first and takes skiers to the Canyon Lodge complex.  Stay off Lift 25 that is high on the upgrade list.  It is a slow triple with no safety bar or footrest.

Ski during the week because on weekends, Southern Californians flock to Mammoth.  Lift lines ebb and flow and most, except for the mid-station, were less than five minutes when I was there in late March, early April.  You’ll have to ski the area to figure out what lifts you like based on the terrain you like skiing.  I gravitated to Lift 5 (High Five Express), Lift 10 (Gold Rush Express), where there’s a healthy mix of thigh burners and cruising runs and Lift 9 (Cloud Nine) for access to the glades.

Click here for Mammoth Mountain Trail Map

Click here for Mammoth Mountain Webcam

Looking up from Lift 5. Credit: Marc Liebman

SeniorsSkiing Guide: Sunapee Goes Epic

Seniors Can Still Get A Mid-Week Pass At A Big Discount Before April 14.

Skier falling into slush cup

It’s that time of the year. Sunapee celebrates spring with a splash. Credit: Sunapee

Sunapee in New Hampshire went Epic this past winter, joining Stowe and Okemo, Vt., as Vail Resort’s three footholds in the East.

Sunapee draws many locals from neighboring towns plus a hefty day crowd from the Boston area. Parking lots fill up early on weekends. Midweek warriors descend on discounted Wicked Wednesdays. Many get there early, lap the Sunapee Express Quad, and leave by lunch.

Skiers disperse to two base lodges—the older, funkier Spruce Lodge (no stairs to reach it) with wood cubbies stuffed with lunch coolers, and the roomier Sunapee Lodge at the Sunapee Express Quad. A shuttle truck precludes schlepping from one to the other, connected by The Beach—a popular spring picnic spot.

Sunapee got jolted out of state-strapped limbo when the Mueller family took over operations in 1998 and worked the same wonders here as they had at nearby Okemo. Robust snowmaking (97 percent) and grooming make Sunapee a reliable area even when snow in the woods is sparse.

Off the South Peak learning area is where the Muellers secured rights to build the West Bowl Expansion, and Vail may or may not follow through. Locals are happy about more trails but skeptical of condos and some dead set against disturbing the old growth forest here.

As a mid-sized area, Sunapee has 66 trails that are varied and full of character. For scenery, ski down the Skyway overlooking a snow-covered Lake Sunapee for one of the best views in New England. Follow the woods down the ungroomed Williamson Trail, or skip through the trees in Sunrise Glades. Get an adrenaline kick down Blast Off and bounce off the moguls on Upper Flying Goose. The terrain park attracts a group of kids who grew up there together. Epic or not, Sunapee will always be Sunapee.

The Muellers’ parting gift to skiers was a high-speed quad commandeered from Okemo in the Sun Bowl. Previously one had to think twice before shooting down here knowing one was facing a slow ride back up, especially in a blizzard.

Although many people ski here for the convenience, less than two hours from Boston, the area truly is a place to stay awhile. Long a summer haven with its many lakes, the Sunapee area has a happy sense of continuity. Skiing segues into swimming and sailing. The ski area has zip lining, mountain biking, adventure course, and summer camps. The satellites tend to stick around—Bob Skinner’s ski shop at the Rotary, Bubba’s Bar & Grille in Newbury, Peter Christian’s Tavern, New London Inn, Dexter’s Inn, Colby-Sawyer College, familiar spots all.

Ticket buyers this year buy an EpicDay pass, a direct-to-lift card that they can reload on line. Until mid-April closing, a day ticket cost counts in the purchase of next year’s Epic Pass.

Epic Local Pass for $699 (19 plus) accesses 30 resorts and is unrestricted at Mt. Sunapee and Okemo. Epic Pass for $939 (ages 13 up) has access to 65 resorts including Europe and Japan. Buy at the Epic Pass site.

For its loyal seniors, Sunapee still offers a midweek pass. Seniors (65-69) is $429 and Super Senior (70 plus) is $279, if bought before April 14. Those prices increased slightly but now include ten discount buddy and six ski-with-a-friend passes. Call or stop at Guest Services (603) 763-3576.

Click here for Sunapee Webcams

Click here for Sunapee Trail Map

 

A less-than two-hour drive from Metro Boston, Sunapee has beautiful blues, views, and lots to choose. Credit: Sunapee

SeniorsSkiing Guide: June Is A Pleasant Surprise

In The Shadow Of Mammoth, June Mt. Features Dramatic Views.

June Mt has the views, plenty of groomed blues, and lots to choose. Credit: June Mt.

One of the most beautiful drives in ski country is from Carson City, NV down Rt 395 to Mammoth Lakes, CA.  Passing Mono Lake and making your way through the passes that are open in the winter yields some of the most breathtaking views in the country. 

As we made our way down 395 this year, we called an audible to swing on to the June Lake Loop on Highway 158 through June Lake to the June Mountain Ski Resort owned by Mammoth Mountain.

We had never skied June before, and stopping there gave me my 110th different area on my list. Providing  wide open, groomed  intermediate terrain with some nice glade skiing due to ample snow fall this season in the Sierras, it was a delightful pause to our tour of Tahoe ski areas, finishing at Mammoth Mountain.  Not every day needs to be a hammer fest with maximum vertical feet quests and skiing the tough chutes and cornice drops that are typical with our hard charging senior group.  The day at June was a welcome break to ski some delightfully groomed runs with low angle glade skiing mixed in.  

June has a seven lifts, 41 trails, and about half are rated advanced, the other half blues and greens. The resort boasts 70 percent sunny days during the season. Rainbow Summit is at 10,ooo feet and views are spectacular. From there, you can run down Silverado, June’s longest run (two miles), to the mid-mountain chalet.

June has a mid-mountain “base” chalet as well as a base at the base. Credit: June Mt.

Perhaps the most visible benefit of  the visit to June was the incredible scenery.  Sitting at the enclosed deck for lunch, we were treated to vistas that reminded me of the great views of the Alps.  The sharpness of the clear day vistas were enhanced by what seemed to be a close up and personal look at the most dramatic mountain peaks  in the Sierras.  As beautiful as the Minarets are from the top of Mammoth, the vistas from the top of June rivaled their big brother.  Although there are no senior lift ticket discounts per se, the schedule of ticket rates are similar to Mammoth with a base price of 119.00 per day at June versus the 182.00 tab at Mammoth.  If you order on line, you can receive up to 20% off for one day tickets and as much as 40% off for visits and purchases of 5 days or more. June and Mammoth are also on the Ikon Pass. 

The town of June Lake is a little sleepy in the winter with the exception of the June Lake Brewing Company on main drag of Crawford Ave. Exceptional IPAs and other selections that are a staple for the outdoor set in the June Lake area. During the week, you basically have the place to yourself with no lift lines and quiet, scenic relaxing runs.  We always make the Mammoth Lakes area a staple on our visits to the Sierras and the detour to June Mountain should not be missed by any skier venturing down 395. 

Click here for June Mt. trail map.

Click here for June Mt. webcam.

June Lake provides a view as well as plenty of summer activities. Credit: June Mt.

SeniorsSkiing Guide: Solitude

New England Trails With Western Snow.

Solitude management loves seniors as reflected in ticket prices and lodge access.

I love skiing Solitude Mountain Resort for its wide range of trails for all levels and ages of skiers ranging from wide-open trails to steep, narrow trails that remind me of skiing Stowe, Mad River Glen, and Sugarbush. All the parking is right out front of the Moonbeam Lodge or Solitude Village.

Management loves senior skiers, and it starts with when you arrive. Mid-week senior lift tickets are $75 and much cheaper if you buy on-line.

Solitude opened in 1957 and is roughly 30 miles up Big Cottonwood Canyon from the heart of Salt Lake City. Like many ski areas, it has had its share of ownership changes. Deer Valley bought it in 2014 and in 2017, Deer Valley and Solitude were acquired by Alterra Mountain Company. Alterra owns 14 resorts including Aspen/Snowmass, Mammoth, Tremblant, Snowshoe, Steamboat, Stratton, and Squaw Valley.

Nice blue groomers as well as steep glades. Credit: Solitude

Mother Nature dumps 500 inches of snow on its 79 named runs on 1,200 skiable acres. The top is 10,488 feet and the base is 7,994 which give one 2,494 vertical feet accessible by 10 lifts. It is easy to find your way around the mountain, and you never have to climb or walk between lifts. Forty percent of the terrain is intermediate and 50 percent is rated for experts. There are two base areas—Solitude Village and Moonbeam—and, if you are a day skier, park at Moonbeam so you can walk up about twenty-five easy steps or take an elevator in the lodge.

From the Moonbeam lift, you can yo-yo off on beginner and intermediate trails or ski to Eagle Express. It opens up glades that take you to the Powderhorn lift. Or, you can ski Inspiration, Rumble, Grumble, Stumble, Serenity, and Challenger and enjoy the steep rolling contours that both challenge and keep you smiling all the way down. I’ve skied all of them in knee-deep powder and frozen granular. No matter the conditions, after each run down you want to hurry up for more.

If you like steep slopes through the trees, take Summit Express to the top. It gives you access to the far side of Honeycomb Canyon as well as a long, wonderful combination of intermediate runs called Dynamite and Mine. Or, you can traverse along the ridge and ski Parachute (you may think you need one, but you don’t) and Milk Run (i’ts not).

On the mountain, the Roundhouse has a restaurant and bathrooms on entry level and upstairs. accessed by elevator. No stairs! The same for the Moonbeam base area. The menu at both Roundhouse and Moonbeam is typical ski area fare, reasonably priced (for a ski area) and tasty (trust me, I’m picky). There are restaurants in the small Solitude Village along with condos to rent.

So let me repeat what I said in the beginning, I love Solitude. Every time I ski in the Salt Lake area, I spend at least two or three days there.

Click Here For Solitude Trail Map

Click Here For Solitude Webcam

Author Marc Liebman makes Solitude a regular stop when in Utah. Credit: Solitude

SeniorsSkiing Guide: Wolf Creek—The Snowiest Surprise

This Resort Has All The Characteristics Senior Skiers Love.

Skiing off the top of Wolf Creek, with Alberta Peak in the distance. Credit: Samual Bricker courtesy of Wolf Creek Ski Area.

It was a powder day at Colorado’s snowiest resort when we pulled in.

Where were the crowds? Not here, they were in places like Aspen, Vail, and Winter Park.

“There are maybe 500 people here,” said our shuttle driver. “Have fun!”

The unassuming base area at Wolf Creek Ski Area is a throwback, with no developed village. Credit: Samual Bricker courtesy of Wolf Creek Ski Area.

Wolf Creek Ski Area is a delightful throwback situated on the Continental Divide in the southern part of the state. And if you’re shocked at the price of skiing in Colorado’s glitzy mountain enclaves, you’ll be pleasantly surprised at how they hold the affordability line at Wolf Creek.

“We’re not out to squeeze every last dime out of our customers,” said Rosanne Haidorfer-Pitcher, vice president of marketing and sales at the resort.

Walk-up ticket prices are $72 for adults, and just $43 for seniors 65-79. If you’re 80, congratulations, your ticket is free.

The skiing is phenomenal, especially if you can hit Wolf Creek on a powder day, which is often. Rocky Mountain storms drop more snow here than anywhere else in Colorado—430 inches a year.

Tree-Skiing Paradise

A skier gets ready to drop in off of Knife Ridge, a short hike into double-diamond powder terrain. Credit: John Nelson

Wolf Creek has a vast array of tree-skiing runs scattered over its 1,600 acres. Topping out at 11,900 feet, its 10 lifts serve a long ridge line that is steep at the top, but rolls into intermediate pitches for most of the area. All in all, 55 percent of the mountain is rated as beginner and intermediate.

If you’re an advanced skier, hiking along the ridge line will deliver you into double-diamond alpine drops. Some of the best are off the Alberta Lift, where a 10-minute climb puts skiers into rare territory of steep untracked lines.

You’ll find great powder elsewhere at Wolf Creek, particularly in the resort’s vast maze of tree-skiing. During my visit in February, I skied powder all day.

Transportation, Where To Stay

Wolf Creek has no on-mountain village. It’s an unassuming collection of old-school lodges, with accommodations 23 miles to the west in Pagosa Springs and 18 miles east in South Fork. If you don’t want to drive, shuttle service is offered by Wilderness Journeys in Pagosa Springs.

Pagosa Springs offers the biggest variety of lodging and restaurants, and it’s also home to several hot springs establishments where you can soak your quads after spending the day skiing powder.

After our big powder day, we spent the shuttle ride down talking about how much we loved the skiing at Wolf Creek.

“This is my new favorite resort in Colorado,” said Jan Mosman, who was visiting from Minnesota with her husband, Mark. “I love the tree skiing.”

The Mosmans had just come from Winter Park, where they had done battle with 15,000 other skiers.

“What did you like best about Wolf Creek?” I asked them.

“No lift lines,” Mark said.

Food, Travel

For a small ski area, Wolf Creek has some surprising amenities. On mountain, there are eight places to eat.

The main Wolf Creek Lodge has daily hot specials and homemade soups, along with burgers served on the sundeck. Don’t miss the Continental Espresso Bar at the top of the Treasure Stoke lift, surely one of the highest places to get a coffee buzz in the Rockies.

The closest major airports to Wolf Creek are in Denver (246 miles away) and Albuquerque (237 miles away).

Click here for Wolf Creek Web Cam

Click here for Trail Map

Skiers make the 10-minute climb off the top of the Alberta Lift to access advanced terrain at Wolf Creek Ski Area. Credit: John Nelson.

 

SeniorsSkiing Guide: Belleayre, A World Away…

…But Close Enough To Enjoy The Day.


The new Belleayre Gondola whisks skiers to the summit in comfort. This is part of the continuing upgrading of facilities at the mountain. Credit: Belleayre Mtn.

Folks living in and around major urban centers, with the exception of places such as Denver and Salt Lake City, often find it difficult to plan a ski day within an easy drive. And while the population is graying, more seniors are skiing that ever before. So the hunt for ski areas within easy driving distance becomes a chore.

Belleayre Mountain in Highmount, NY, off New York Throughway Exit 19 and about 40 minutes west of Kingston on a straight run along Rt. 28, neatly fills that bill. About an hour from Albany and two hours more or less from the New York City/North Jersey Metro area, the resort makes a day trip a reality for urbanites.

While there’s no danger of Belleayre ever becoming an Olympic ski venue, its trails offer enough of a challenge for expert and novice skiers alike.

The Catskills resort is owned by New York State’s Olympic Regional Development Authority, a public benefit corporation originally formed to manage the facilities at the 1980 Lake Placid games. Not too long ago in a move to cut expenses, New York dispensed with the Belleayre Gold Lifetime card that granted seniors over 70 the opportunity to ski for free. There was also a Silver Sliders Card for those with little color but silver in their hair, that also offered older skiers courtesies. But according to mountain spokesmen that program was discontinued because of a lack of participation.

Holders of the Gold Card often arrived at Belleayre on midweek days and more often than not were practically the only ones on the slope. Looking at the Gold and Silver cards, it’s difficult to understand why they would have been discontinued for lack of participation. The cost to the state of granting such privilege was microcosmic. 

In view of the fact that they did not detract from the mountain’s bottom line, they could have carried on infinitum. But powers beyond the mountain—read that to say “Albany”—decided that those over 70 years of age should pay to ski. The savings hardly filled the budget gap for Gov. Cuomo.

Onondaga trail looks ready for action. Nice blue! Credit: Belleayre Mtn.

There are discounted program that are currently offered. A septuagenarian will pay only $20 for a daily lift ticket. That’s not bad. If you fall into the 65 to 69 age category, your ski tab is $52 mid week and $60 weekend at the ticket window. If you buy online, that mid week price drops to $32. Belleayre also offers a variety of differently priced passes. A Season Ski3 combo pass good for Belleayre, Gore and Whiteface now costs $999 for those from 65 to 69. A Belleayre only pass was listed as $459 for 70 plus. Season passes would have been way cheaper if purchased in August.

All of that being said, Belleayre is one of the more attractive ski destinations in the Lower Northeast. It’s easy to get to and drive time is more than reasonable. The runs offer enough excitement for expert skiers with a variety of Black Diamonds running from the summit to the lodge. 

The blues are a terrific variety that give skiers an opportunity to condition their legs and move on to a more challenging blue before hitting the steep moguls and runs on the black diamond trails. Green trails are often used to loosen up before hitting  blues or blacks and are both easy enough for true novices and interesting enough for older skiers who simply want to put on skis and enjoy a day on the slopes.

Even on holidays and weekends when the caravans of buses head to the mountain from New York City, North Jersey, Albany and every school district in-between, the lift lines move along at a rapid pace giving you the opportunity to spend more time on the mountain and less time getting there.

The mix of skiers and snowboarders, young and not so young gives Belleayre a great panache. Respect for each other is paramount and it’s not uncommon to see a senior skier stopping to help or offer advice and suggestions to a younger skier who seems to be struggling down hill.

The mountain’s ski/snowboard school offers instructors capable of working with any age group to truly imparting the love of skiing.

For a trail map, click here.

For web cam, click here.

Two hours from New York/New Jersey is Belleayre. That’s doable for a mid-week run where you will find lots of room on the slopes. Credit: Belleayre Mtn.

SeniorsSkiing Guide: Japan’s Hakuba Valley

A Senior’s Introduction To Some Of The Best Skiing In Japan.

Happo One is the largest resort in the Hakuba Valley with four base areas serving the mountain. Credit: Hakuba.com

The Hakuba Valley sits three hours west of downtown Tokyo and boasts some of the best skiing in all of Asia. Host to the 1998 Winter Olympics, Hakuba offers a unique combination of diverse terrain spread out over 11 resorts, 12 meters of annual snowfall, world class facilities, and amazing Japanese cultural experiences: think sushi, hot springs, and thousand year old temples. The entire valley has been added to the 2018/19 Epic Pass allowing pass holders five days of free riding across all of the resorts.

Access

From downtown Tokyo you will take the famous Japanese bullet train one and a half hours to Nagano Station where you will need to transfer to a bus for the last one hour of the journey. The entire is just 3 hours and costs ¥10,000. ($85.00)

Two Outstanding Resorts In The Valley

Happo-One

The largest and most central resort in the valley is Happo-One (pronounced On Ay), spreading across 220 hectares. The highest run is 2,696 m and spreads to four base areas providing everything advanced skiers could want: steep runs, high vertical drops, and powder runs. There are opportunities for beginners as well but this resort is best suited for intermediate and advanced skiers.

Adult Lift Ticket: ¥5,200 ($46.00)

Senior Lift Ticket: ¥4,700 ($41.00)

Cortina

Cortina has become synonymous with powder skiing for Hakuba enthusiasts. The resort receives the highest and driest snowfall in the valley and usually gets nearly twice as much snow as neighboring resorts. The snow patrol at Cortina are quite relaxed, and off-piste skiing is not an issue.

Adult Lift Ticket 1 Day ¥4,000 ($35.00)

Senior Lift Ticket 1 Day ¥3,200 ($28.00)

Alternatively, visitors can buy the Hakuba All Valley Pass which gives pass holders access to all 11 resorts.

Lessons

The Evergreen Outdoor Center is the largest international ski school in Hakuba and offers English language lessons with certified instructors on Happo-One.

Gear

You can get all your rental gear at Central Snow Sports. They have several locations throughout Hakuba and have very knowledgeable and friendly English speaking staff.

Basic Ski Rental Package: Approximately ¥4,000 per day ($35.00)

Where to stay?

Happo Village has everything you need for a comfortable stay in Hakuba: proximity to the resorts, best restaurants, hot springs, and public transportation.

Marillen Hotel

Only in Japan: Marillen is an Austrian-themed hotel in the heart of the Hakuba Valley. Credit: Hakuba.com

The Austrian-themed Marillen Hotel sits on the Nakiyama slope and is one of the few true ski-in-ski out hotels in the Hakuba Valley. The Austrian theme stretches  to the food with schnitzel and pretzels served while a fire roars and live musical acts perform in the après bar. Nakiyama even offers night skiing if you find the energy for a few extra runs after dinner.

Onsen

Soaking in a Japanese hot spring after a long day on the slopes is a terrific way to relax. Be advised,  it’s customary to bathe in the nude. It may feel daunting to walk into a public onsen at first but the experience is well worth any initial awkwardness. There are multiple onsens within Happo-Village, and they cost approximately ¥600 ($5.50) per visit.

Off the Slopes

Join a day tour and soak in the rich Japanese culture and visit the world famous snow monkeys. This full day tour takes you from Hakuba to Nagano City where you’ll stop at Zenkoji, an eighth century Buddhist temple. Many believe the first Buddhist sculpture ever brought to Japan remains within this sacred building. After touring the temple, you’ll be taken to the snow monkey park where you’ll be able to see the only monkeys in the world known to bathe in hot springs.

For more information, click here for the Hakuba Valley site.

The Cortina resort offers lots of snow and powder opportunities. Credit: Hakuba.com

 

Grand Targhee: Deep Powder and a Friendly Vibe

It had been snowing three days when I arrived at Grand Targhee. By morning the new snow total was 55″.

A guy from Denver suggested signing up for Early Tracks. For $89 members of the ski school guide you at 8AM, an hour head start on the public.

Next morning, I skied 1 1/2 hours on untracked terrain, guided by B-Rad, Wall Street derivatives trader turned ski instructor. The snow was mid-thigh. Grand Targhee is known for its deep, natural snow, and the day I was there, the resort lived up to its reputation.

Like many other skiers, my previous experience with the area was taking a day trip from Jackson Hole, the mega resort about 25 miles away. Grand Targhee’s 2,600 acres sit in the Teton mountain range, its 2270′ of vertical served by five chairs.

Parking lot at Grand Targhee

At 7851′, the base can present a breathing challenge to flatlanders. But it’s worth the short time to acclimate. On clear days, you can almost reach across the valley and touch Grand Teton Mountain in its 13,770′ glory.

Lodges, restaurants, retail, pool and hot tub cluster at the base; each a short walk from the other. The lot is an easy walk to the lifts and decent restrooms are located at the top of each chair.

From past visits, I know that super-steep is not part of Grand Targhee’s DNA. This time, two hours of early morning super-deep left me wiped out. The rest of my day was at the bottom.

There are three places to eat and a small general store. The first evening I ate at Branding Iron Grill, the resort’s fine dining option. A nice space, with good food, and a generous pour. Powder morning I chose something light and delicious at Snorkels, the breakfast and lunch eatery. That afternoon I sat in the very full Trap Bar and Grill, sipping a beer and enjoying friendly conversation against a background of live bluegrass.

Grand Targhee’s senior pass pricing starts at age 65 and is humane. Lodging at the resort also is reasonable: a slope-side room, midweek next February is less than $200 per night. Other options are available in nearby Alta, Wyoming and in Driggs and Victor, Idaho.

Grand Targhee is located high above Idaho potato country

The vibe is friendly, with friends and strangers of all ages in easy conversation. Older locals refer to themselves as Targeezers.

The mountain, reliable snow, and reasonable prices keep people returning season after season. One couple I met was visiting from Hawaii for the second time in a few months. The guy from Denver was on his second trip of the year. A couple from Australia had driven over from Jackson for the day. Next time they plan to spend to use Targhee as their base.

Leaving Grand Targhee, Teton Range in background

At one point the clouds lifted and Idaho’s flat potato fields came into view. Access to this area of Wyoming is through Idaho. B-Rad pointed out some of the distant ranges while I caught my breath. Then our attention focused on what was in our immediate future: a long expanse of light, untouched deep powder waiting quietly for us to leave our lines.

 

Big Sky: Unpretentious. Uncrowded. Unbelievably Great Skiing.

Big Sky is not ritzy. It is not pretentious. It is not crowded.

And, as one of country’s greatest ski destinations, it is not to be missed.

Big Sky is big…really BIG!

With 4350′ of vertical and 5,800 acres, Big Sky justifiably calls itself “The Biggest Skiing in America.”

The last time I skied there was before the acquisition of Moonlight Basin, a smaller adjacent area I always assumed was for beginners.

That assumption was wrong.

A tour of what had been Moonlight revealed a world of interesting black diamonds off Lookout Ridge. I explored a few of them before heading toward Mountain Village, the resort’s commercial heart and onto the blue and black terrain on Andesite and Flatiron Mountains.

At day’s end, gear stashed with ski valet, I walked to Huntley Lodge, one of four hotels a short distance from the lifts.

Named for NBC news anchor Chet Huntley, it was bustling with people there for conferences and skiing. My room was clean and pleasant, and, like me, showing some age. The night before, following check-in, I had walked across the plaza to a well-populated bar and enjoyed a few beers and a surprisingly good meal. This night, I drove six miles to Town Center, where the Lotus Pad‘s curry was excellent and its vibe, big city.

Big Sky is attracting a lot of visitors and permanent residents. The place is booming. In Town Center, construction cranes and hard hats are everywhere. Winter is part of the equation. Other times of year fishing, golfing, mountain biking, hiking, and nearby Yellowstone National Park contribute to the draw. There’s a beautiful new high school and, especially important for seniors, the new Bozeman Health Big Sky Medical Center.

Next morning, following the Huntley’s substantial breakfast buffet, I returned to the lifts with the goal of reaching 11,166′ Lone Peak before the clouds rolled in. On the way I took Powder Seeker, the resort’s high-speed six-pack with blue bubble and heated seats. It’s then a short run to the base of Lone Peak Tram, the canister transporting 15 at a time. Depending on what awaits you at the top, the wait at the bottom may or may not be worth it.

By the time I reached the peak, it was socked-in, and I felt my way down a black bowl until visibility improved. Entering Bavarian Forest, an area of beautiful glades on manageable black terrain, I saw no one until reaching the bottom of the Dakota triple chair.

Big Sky has few on-hill amenities. There’s one permanent upscale restaurant recommending reservations, an over-sized yurt serving brats, burgers, and beers, and two limited-menu food trucks.

Toilets are equally scarce. PortaPotties next to the yurt, required an overly high step onto a slippery floor. They need to take care of that for skiers of any age. The trail map is a good one and will help you know before you need to go.

In the near distance, contiguous to Big Sky but not accessible to the rest of us, is Yellowstone Club, the famed, private resort. An instructor I met pointed out Bill and Melinda Gates’ home.

Seniors (70+) get a break on day passes (5-day advance purchase is best). Season pass options vary and have two senior categories, one 65-79, the other 80+. Big Sky participates in IKON and Mountain Collective.

Numerous direct flights to Bozeman, an hour from Big Sky.

There are a surprising number of non-stop flights from most major cities to Bozeman, about an hour away.

Depending on your skiing preferences, Big Sky is either a very good place to visit or a must place to visit. Its size, scope, and reliable snowfall make it a resort where senior skiers simply can’t go wrong.

 

My Sun Valley Serenade

A few rides on the lift can say a lot about an area. At Idaho’s Sun Valley I was reminded of its friendly vibe and older population of very good skiers.

Sun Valley with Ketchum and Baldy in the background

Anyone reading this knows Sun Valley is one of America’s oldest and most celebrated resorts. In the late 30s to the 60s/70s, Sun Valley helped establish the glamor of skiing by attracting celebs like Ernest Hemingway, Gary Cooper, Clark Gable, and Ingrid Bergman. The 1941 romantic comedy, “Sun Valley Serenade” starring Olympic skater Sonya Henie; actor, John Payne, and bandleader, Glenn Miller (“Chattanooga Choo Choo” was one of its songs), is played 24/7 on a resort TV channel.

All of that might be lost on Millennials, but as part of the SeniorsSkiing.com demographic, the importance of Sun Valley should not be lost on you.

It’s the location of the world’s first chairlift. It’s where Warren Miller spent his post-WWII years, and it was and continues to be home town for Olympic champions such as Gretchen Fraser and Picabo Street.

Sun Valley is the resort community adjacent to the town of Ketchum. There are two places to ski: Bald Mountain, in Ketchum, tops out at 9,150′ and has 2,054 acres of almost every type of terrain. At a lower elevation (6,638′), Dollar Mountain mixes terrain parks with blues and greens.

The day of my visit, I got an early start; parking at the River Run lot and taking a short, downhill stroll to the lodge. At the drop-off area there’s a fleet of fat tire wagons to carry equipment the short distance to base lodge. For the most part, Sun Valley’s day lodges are posh and serve excellent food. Restrooms are as nice as in a fine hotel; well-maintained, private stalls, and high-end fixtures. One minor downside is that typically they’re at the bottom of a flight of stairs.

The gondola goes to mid-mountain, where you have access to the rest. From there, I chose a chair that got me close to the top of Warm Springs, the face with more than 3000′ vertical.

About 6″ had fallen overnight and the run, first on black, then blue, was a great way to start. Back at the top, I headed down a ridge where sun-exposed snow was starting to firm. Several chairs and runs later, I stopped in Seattle Ridge Day Lodge to rehydrate and enjoy the great views.

Baldy is about to expand by 380 acres. Cold Springs Canyon, a steep pitch adjacent to Seattle Ridge, is expected to open next season with a new detachable quad.

The cost of skiing Sun Valley is a mixed bag. Seniors (65+) can purchase lift tickets in advance for $89 a day, significantly less than $135 for the youngsters. But there are no senior discounts for season passes. Sun Valley is a Mountain Collective participant. That pass includes two day passes and 50% off the price of subsequent days. If I planned to ski there five or six days, I’d probably use Mountain Collective, currently selling for $409.

I stayed at the newly remodeled Sun Valley Inn. My room was large and tastefully decorated. Off the lobby is the beautiful and understated Ram Restaurant. The menu is diverse, the room has a casual elegance, and the service is excellent. Hemingway could still be perched at the bar.

The Pioneer Saloon

In Ketchum, about a mile down the road, is The Pioneer Saloon, the classic bar and meatery that has been attracting locals and visitors for decades. One evening I met friends at Sawtooth Brewery for first-rate pub food and beer.

Delta, Alaska Airlines, and United have daily direct flights to nearby Hailey from Chicago, Denver, Seattle, Portland, LA, San Francisco, and Salt Lake City.

 

Sun Valley, America’s first destination ski resort, is a classic. I know it’s on a lot of bucket lists. But, like Warren used to say, “Why wait another year? You’ll only be that much older.”

Pomerelle Mountain Resort: Vintage Family Area Named for a Favorite Wine

I recently visited Pomerelle Mountain Resort, a smallish ski area in the Sawtooth National Forest, 75 miles east of Twin Falls, Idaho.

It’s about 25 miles from the Interstate. You get there driving through a long, flat valley and small villages (e.g. Albion, pop 300) before turning onto a road that climbs to the 8,000′ base. Lodge, lifts, and trails are easily accessible from the lot.

Pomerelle typically gets 500″ of snow! Even during this relatively meager season, it’s doing well. About a foot had fallen overnight. Two triple chairs provide access. A long magic carpet serves a dedicated beginners area. The mountain offers 1,000′ of vertical, mostly green and blue. There’s ample tree skiing.

Pomerelle Mountain Resort. Photo: OnTheSnow

There’s also an outstanding school which has taught tens of thousands of people to ski and board. “I tell my friends over at Sun Valley to be thankful for what we do here,” Barry Whiting told me. The 72 year-old has been Pomerelles’ Ski School Director for three decades. “It’s small areas like ours that introduce newcomers to the sport. They learn here and go on to explore Sun Valley and other larger resorts.”

Barry is probably correct, but I met numerous people who learned at Pomerelle and keep returning. In addition to lots of snow, the gentle terrain and lack of crowds appeal to families and older skiers. Prices are part of that appeal. If you’re 70, a day ticket is $25. Group lessons are $35 ($40 with rental) and privates are $60 an hour.

If I wanted to hone my skills with new equipment or following injury, Pomerelle would be on the list.

The lodge is sizeable with a kitchen serving really good basic food. It stays open late to feed night skiers. I didn’t visit the women’s restroom (obviously) but the men’s was clean and well maintained.

Displayed behind the cashier are three bottles of Pommerelle, a long-discontinued brand of fortified wine. The early developers liked it so much that they’d toss bottles in the snow. People who found them got to enjoy the fruity stuff. They decided to name the area after that tradition, dropping one of the ‘m’s.

Even though I didn’t find the terrain challenging, I did find it interesting. I can’t say that for most gentle slopes and trails in other places, but there was enough vertical for a good workout and enough acreage to keep my attention for the time I was there.

Drift Inn, Rupert, ID

There are places to stay in nearby Albion and in Burley, 28 miles away. I chose Drift Inn in the small town of Rupert. It’s in a turn-of-the century National Historic Register bank building across from the town square. Its six rooms and suites are tastefully done. On the ground floor is Henry’s, a full bar and restaurant. Across the square is Sophie’s Chatterbox, known in the area for breakfast.

There’s a certain magic associated with uncrowded, out of the way ski areas that get a lot of snow. Older skiers looking for interesting, gentle terrain, great value, and friendly, old-fashioned hospitality should visit Pomerelle.

SeniorsSkiing Guide: Taos—High, Dry, And Full Of Culture

Some People Say The Best Four Letter Word About Skiing Is “Taos.”

Big, high, dry, up in the sky: That’s Taos. Credit: Val E.

When I looked up at the main slope, I was speechless, then the words came—steep, moguls, trees. Wow. At 12,000 ft, Taos’ Mt. Kachina is close to the top of the World.

The resort is located in northern New Mexico, which one seasoned skier described as “a mix of a desert and mountains, unusual and beautiful.” The Blake family discovered, founded, developed, and an Taos Ski Resort since the mid fifties.

In 2013, new management built new lifts, hotels, and other facilities. The result is a cute, small, Euro-style village with an obvious French-Swiss touch and a huge mountain with well groomed slopes, moguls, cornices, glades, and trees almost up to the very top. Snow is quite dry there because of the altitude. Taos is a breathtaking resort in more ways than one; the town is the highest municipality in the US.

Secret Knowledge

Note single chair on left. Credit: Val E.

Kachina Peak is the highest peak reachable by a triple chair in the North American Continent.

Resort lodging options include hotels, condominiums, and bed and breakfasts. The new jewel of Taos is the luxury Hotel Blake, named for the resort founders. The interior is elegant, the restaurant is high-end, and the rental area looks like a high tech lab.

The Ernie Blake Snowsports School is one of the highest rated ski schools in North America. Ski instructing services for groups, especially for ski clubs, were quite reasonably priced.

One of the best parts, besides the slopes and snow, is super friendly employees. Ski lift operators and ski patrol people were waving and smiling like old friends. One ski resort host kindly ride with me just to introduce to the mountain.

Community

During my week stay at the resort, I talked to a few local skiers, some of them were from the 50+ category.

Here is what an expert skier, originally from Hollywood, said: “I moved to Taos after 16 years in Los Angeles in the film business. Taos is a ski town which has world class skiing and an ancient cultural heritage—one of the oldest in the US. It’s also an artist’s town and has dozens of galleries. Taos gives you access to a wider choice of restaurants and apres ski activities. It is great for couples where one doesn’t ski or who like cultural activities.”

A very confident female skier shared: “We came to live in Taos from NYC after years of skiing here. My husband doesn’t ski anymore. He wanted to retire in a friendly community with a synagogue. Now I ski Kachina peak almost every day.”

Another young looking retiree told me: “I am from St. Louis, flat country. I ski in winter and hike in summer. People come to Taos because you can be whoever you want to be, and nobody is asking questions here.”

Taos Ski Valley is a rugged mountain, pioneered by people who put skiing first and all else second. If Virginia is for lovers, then Taos is for skiers!

Taos By The Numbers

2.5 hours by car/bus from Albuquerque International airport

4 espresso bars, including one ski in, ski out

15 lifts

25 miles to Colorado

$105—one day adult ski ticket (18-64); $85—one day senior ski ticket (65-79); 80+ year old – ski free

$408 ski pass for 6 days (65-79); shorter day pass combinations are available

110 trails 55 for beginner/intermediate and 55 for advanced/expert skiers.

305 in—average annual snowfall

7,000 ft—Taos city altitude

9,207 ft—Taos Ski Resort

12,481 ft—Kachina Peak

Click here for Trail Map

Click here for Taos Ski Resort Website

Trees up to the top are a trademark of Taos. Credit: Val E.

 

SeniorsSkiing Guide: Vail—Luxury Colorado Skiing At Its Best

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Vail was magnificent the day I skied there a few weeks ago.

We had bluebird skies, and despite Winter’s temporary retreat the snow was surprisingly good. The resort is vast and if my friend David hadn’t volunteered to guide, I would not have been able to see and ski as much of the place in a single day. He’s lived there several decades and knows it well.

Vail Resorts’ Goldola One
Shot by: Jack Affleck

We started at Vail Village on Gondola One and worked our way to Two Elk Lodge on the ridge separating The Front Side from Vail’s celebrated Back Bowls. Eventually, we skied and rode our way to Vail’s highest elevation: 11,570′ at the top of Blue Sky Basin.

Because of marginal conditions we chose not to go off-piste. From a few past visits, I know that powder in those bowls is great fun. But, vast as Vail is — 5289 acres and 31 lifts — powder gets tracked out by late morning. Secret stashes remain. David pointed out his favorites from the chair.

The resort is a top choice for senior skiers because of its long expanses of blue and single black terrain, chair lifts with foot rests, comfortable gondolas, and ample on-hill day lodges serving excellent fare. The few johns I visited were comfortable and clean.

It’s also home of the Ski Younger Now, hosted by the Vail Ski and Snowboard School. It’s a retraining program for older skiers and those returning to the sport after recovering from injury (see Ski Younger Now tips in Subscriber Only Content). After this weekend, remaining dates for the three-day workshop are March 13-15 and April 3-5.

Like other large Colorado resorts, parking can be an issue. In past visits, I’ve had to park in remote locations and bus it to the lifts; one of my least favorite experiences. This time the car never left David’s driveway. A shuttle picked us up at his house and took us a few blocks to the hill.

As can be expected, Vail Village and surrounding areas have a variety of high end lodging, restaurants, and retail, but reasonably priced options are available. A few years ago we found a nice, well-priced condo with indoor parking in nearby Avon.

As long as conditions are good and the light’s not flat, I’ll ski any terrain. But I prefer to do it at my own pace. David, on the other hand, gets down the hill quickly. Throughout the day he waited patiently for my arrival.

Game Creek Club
Shot by: Kimberly Gavin

At one point we headed for Game Creek Club, a private dining facility in Game Creek Bowl. It is beautiful and accessible only via snow in winter. Game Creek is open to the public for dinner (night access via cat).

Following lunch we made a few more runs. I began to feel wobbly. Some readers are accustomed to a lot of daily vertical, but this was my fourth day of the season, and having booked 20,000 vertical, I needed to go home.

Because it has been a major destination for so long, many of you have had the pleasure of skiing Vail. If not, add it to the list. If you haven’t been there for a while, go back. Vail is luxury Colorado skiing at its best.

SeniorsSkiing Guide: Beaver Mountain—Utah’s Least Known Is A Delightful Surprise

The “Beav” Has All The Goods But No Crowds And No Fanfare.

Cozy lodge is friendly and down home. Look elsewhere for fancy.
Credit: Harriet Wallis

For most vacation-seekers, Beaver Mountain falls off the radar because it’s farther than the 10 resorts that are within an hour’s drive from the Salt Lake City International Airport. Beaver is about 100 miles—less than 2 hours from the airport.

Nobody knows about Beaver Mountain. Actually, lots of people know about Beaver Mountain, but they aren’t telling. They enjoy having the 8,600 foot high mountain with its 400 inches of average snowfall. Its skiers and snowboarders come mostly from nearby Logan and the Utah State University.

I’ve lived here for 25 years, and I’m embarrassed to admit I’d never skied Beaver until last week. A day there shattered all my stereotypes about it. Now I know it’s a gem of a mountain, and it’s very uncrowded. Repeat: Beaver is uncrowded.

And it’s an easy shot to get there: Take I-15 north, turn right to Logan, turn right up Logan Canyon, and you’re at Beaver Mountain.

What’s more, it has a friendly, down-home feel. For example: The sunny base lodge has a roaring fire stove and easy chairs for the ski-weary. That’s a touch that’s disappeared from most mega-resorts.

The cafeteria cooks up very good food at very reasonable prices. I loved the Reuben. But it was hard to resist the finger-likin’ ribs.

Corduroy courtesy of veteran grooming crew.
Credit: Beaver Mountain.

The mountain has a northeast exposure and gets the warming morning sun. Grooming is superb. I learned that the grooming crew is seasoned veterans who have groomed the mountain for years. It has plenty of challenging pitch. There’s an equal dose of mogul fields and off-piste tree skiing, a terrain park, and a magic carpet. The longest runs are 2 miles long. An adult day ticket is $50, seniors (70+) are $40. Seniors can also get a half-day ticket for $35.

I chatted with a couple that I presumed were locals. They weren’t. They live in Florida and travel and ski extensively. They’ve done the big name resorts and were thoroughly enjoying Beaver for the week.

I rode up the lift with Mountain Operations Manager Travis Seeholzer. He pointed to the ridgeline and said: “That’s the Idaho border.” Beaver is high in the northern-most corner of the Wasatch Mountain Range.

Because of its location, Beaver has a marketing problem. Lodging and big city amenities are 27 miles back to Logan or 13 miles ahead in Garden City, a popular summer destination on the shore of Bear Lake.

The flatlands surrounding the mountains are known as Cache Valley because mountain men and trappers cached their furs in secret places. Beaver Mountain is also a secret. Discover the secret mountain for yourself. Do what the locals do. Go “Ski the Beav.”

Other things you should know:

  • There’s no cell phone service at Beaver. People actually talk with each other.
  • Logan has tons of restaurants, car dealers, theaters, shopping, grocery stores, two hospitals, and more.
  • Garden City is primarily a summer resort area and has very little open in winter. There are several time share facilities, and that’s where the couple I talked with was staying. They bought their groceries in Logan as they passed through, and that’s what they recommend.

Click here for Trail Map.

Click here for Webcams.

To read more from Harriet click here for her stories on SkiUtah.

This is uncrowded. Nice.
Credit: Harriet Wallis

 

SeniorsSkiing Guide: Pat’s Peak With Little Hobbits

And Grandparent Hobbitts, Too.

Hobbitts can be found at Pat’s Peak, New Hampshire
Credit: Tamsin Venn

Skiing with grandchildren is one of grandparents’ great joys and comes with perks: easier slopes, hot chocolate breaks, and slower (maybe) pace. Some ski areas are more finely tuned to multi-generational skiing than others, based not just on the amenities but the spirit of the area.

Pat’s Peak in Henniker, southern N.H., is one such place. The old-time vibe of this popular area is the first clue things are going to be fun. Tyrolean-style architecture harkens back to the days when Austria set the scene with boiled wool jackets and “bending the knees”. Greeters stand by with signs that say, “May I Help You?” which avoids the usual stumbling search for the lunch area and ticket booth. Free or low-cost tickets take the bite out of days shortened by tired or cold grandkids.

Three beginner areas sit apart from the main slopes so no one crashes into the grandchildren under your watch. One is located in a hobbit-like stand of trees with a carpet lift free to everyone. Another beginners’ slope has a handle tow, and the third features the Bluster Carpet, the longest magic carpet in New Hampshire. Older grandchildren will enjoy catching air in the three terrain parks. Grandparents, if you’re brave, try a Snowbike lesson/rental. You get to sit down while you’re skiing.

The base lodge harkens back to the early 60s, nostalgia for many seniors.
Credit: Tamsin Venn

A spirit of sustainability has guided Pat’s Peak development since the four Patenaude brothers, seeking an area closer to home, built the base lodge out of local timber and opened the area in 1963. That spirit continued this year when Pat’s Peak replaced the old Peak Double Chair with a triple bought from Vermont’s Ascutney Mountain and refurbished, doubling lift capacity from 800 to 1,600 people an hour.

Two interconnected lodges spread the crowds. Signs encourage you to share the long tables and benches. A blazing stone fireplace warms the toes. Food is homemade daily, and the grandkids like the M&M cookies the size of small Frisbees.

Sometimes it just comes down to the vibe of the place. Pat’s Peak feels like an area where you can let the kids loose to ski on their own while you attack the serious expert terrain.

More Perks:

Ski New Hampshire’s 4th and 5th Grade Passport: Children from any state in these grades ski for a day at 34 Alpine and XC ski areas across N.H.

January’s Learn to Ski and Snowboard month: $39 beginner special, including group lesson, rentals, lift ticket.

Pat’s Peak

Henniker, N.H.

Vertical: 770 feet

Skiable acres: 103

Runs: 28. Novice 50 %, Intermediate 21 %, Advanced 12 %, Expert 17 %

4 triple chairs, 2 double chairs, 1 J-bar, 1 beginner handle tow, 1 park handle tow, 2 carpet lifts

100 percent snowmaking

Children five and under ski free with a ticketed adult. Day tickets are discounted for ages 6-17 and over 65, only $49 on weekdays. The beginner lift is $26 a day. Saturday night POP (Pay One Price) of $49 includes skiing, snowboarding, snowtubing, rentals, lesson tips, and entertainment.

Click here for Pat’s Peak Trail Map

www.patspeak.com

Pat’s Peak Update Video

 

SeniorsSkiing Guide: Bogus Basin Not Your Usual Local Ski Hill

This Non-Profit Ski Area Is Community Owned And Prices Reflect It.

View from the top at Bogus Basin, the ski resort outside Boise, ID
Credit: Yvette Cardozo

Bogus Basin outside Boise, ID, is the local ski hill. But it’s not your usual tiny, rustic, over run local hill.

“What you get here is destination skiing at local prices,” said General Manager Brad Wilson. “Our lift tickets are $59, our ski rental package $30, our burgers are $7. We’re able to do that because we are non-profit. It’s community owned.”

Skiing couple takes a selfie at Bogus Basin outside Boise, ID.
Credit: Yvette Cardozo

Indeed, the size might make it a destination hill in many places. It is second largest in Idaho after Schweitzer. But the vibe is definitely local, families doing box lunches, school buses loaded with local kids, night skiing seven days a week.

“We see people from Texas, from Florida but this is not our focus because we have so many local people to draw from.

“The quality of our skiing is equal to destination areas but there’s no granite in the bathrooms, and our chefs aren’t wearing tall hats.” Wilson added.

Why, then ski Bogus as a visitor?  Because it’s 40 minutes from Boise. If you are flying in to ski elsewhere, say, Brundage and Tamarack near McCall, or Sun Valley, odds are you come through Boise, a vibrant, fresh new city. So it makes sense to spend a day or two, and also perhaps a day skiing Bogus.

Snow, Terrain And More

Location: Bogus Basin is 16 miles north of Boise, ID, which is towards the southwest end of the state. It’s about a 40 minute drive from downtown. The city is in the midst of a construction boom with 800 new hotel rooms expected by next summer. The ski area draws from the entire “Treasure Valley,” some 700,000 people from Boise and surrounding towns.

Snowfall: 200 – 250 inches a year.  Four “fan guns” fill in where snow is sparse in early season.

Terrain, lifts: Three detatchable high-speed quads, a triple chair and three doubles, along with  a conveyer belt for beginners, serve the 2,600 skiable acres. There are 78 named runs. Eighteen percent are easiest, 42 percent intermediate, 40 percent expert. Free mountain tours are offered weekends at 10:30am and 1:30pm.

Vertical: 5,800 feet at the base, 7,582 at the top, resulting in just shy of an 1,800 foot vertical drop.

Nordic & more: 37 km of groomed Nordic trails for day skiing, 7 km for night, 12 km for winter fat bikes and snowshoes. Frontier Point Nordic Lodge has a gas fireplace, equipment rental, ticketing office and waxing bench.

Lot to Lift Access:  Seven parking lots with ski in-ski out access, more with shuttle service.

Public transportation: Roundtrip buses with stops in Caldwell, Nampa, Middleton, Star, Eagle, Meridian, Boise State and various Boise locations through bogusbasin.org or Caldwell Transportation Co. (208) 459-6612

Accommodations: No on slope lodging.

Culture:

The Vibe: This is a local hill on steroids. Not wild and crazy but, rather, casual, friendly, but much larger than you expect. Since most skiers here are locals, they ski well and know the mountain. Ride a lift with one, and he/she will give you tips on getting good snow.

Dining: Of the three lodges, two have grills, bars or some sort of food. These include the J.R. Simplot Lodge at the base and Pioneer Lodge on the upper mountain.

Mountain Life: Snow, snow and more snow. Alpine and nordic skiing, fat tire cycling. You don’t come here to lounge in front of a fireplace in expensive duds. You get out and go, then come in to rest, then get out and go some more.

Trail Map click here

Webcam and Conditions click here

SeniorsSkiing Guide:Tamarack’s Cruising Ground Is Wide Open

Almost Down And Out, This Resurrected Resort Returns As A Bargain For Senior Skiers.

The base at Tamarack Resort with sports and cafe domes and a snow rainbow.
Credit: Tamarack Resort

Tamarack is the original comeback kid.

It opened in 2004 to great fanfare and serious celebrity cred, the first new ski resort in the US since Beaver Creek in 1980. With tennis star Andre Agassi and wife Steffi Graf at their publicity helm, the idea was to focus on real estate. 
And for four years, this worked.

Skiing powder at Tamarack, Donnelly, ID., near McCall.
Credit:Tamarack Resort

Then came the recession; the resort was forced to close for a year and one ski lift was repossessed (a helicopter actually carried it away). 
  It took years to sort out the financial problems, which finally, were laid to rest in 2014.

And now, the homeowners have taken over, the lifts are running, the grooming could be mistaken for Deer Valley manicuring, and you can ski on a budget ($69 adult, $44 senior) while feeling like the place belongs to you and you alone.

Today, the resort remains in a somewhat half finished state. The original village was never completed (you can see uncovered Tyvek on the side of the unfinished lodge), and the base lodge consists of “temporary” domes covering the sports shop and restaurants.

And while powder hounds are not disappointed, what truly makes this place shine is cruising that will never, ever, put you to sleep. No straight down the fall line, yawn stuff, the cruisers here twist and turn, drop over unexpected humps, sift through widely spaced trees and, heck, are adrenaline fun.


Snow, Terrain and More

Location: Tamarack is in Tamarack, ID, close to Donnelly, ID, about 20 miles south of McCall, and 100 miles north of Boise, in west central Idaho.

Snowfall: 300 inches average.

Terrain, lifts: 42 runs and 6 lifts, including 2 high-speed quads across 1,000 acres of lift- served terrain. 17 percent novice, 45 percent intermediate, 38 percent advanced terrain. Ski season is usually early December to early April. 25 percent of terrain is covered by snowmaking.

Vertical: 2800 feet, top at 7,700 feet, base at 4,900 feet.

Skiing powder at Tamarack Resort.
Credit: Tamarack Resort.

Nordic and more: The Tamarack Nordic Trail system offers a variety of trails that wind through open meadows and forested paths. Choose your own adventure through the groves of Aspen, fir, pine and Tamarack trees on classic or skate skis, fat tire bike or snowshoes.

Lot to lift access: One main parking lot about 100 feet from the Sports Dome that serves as Tamarack’s base lodge. On the rare occasion this fills, there’s a second lot near the unfinished village along the main entrance road. You can also easily walk to the lifts from this lot.

Public transportation: None. You really need a rental car.

Accomodations: Options at Tamarack Resort are numerous and reasonably priced. Hotel rooms during regular season this year were running $150 a night and a four bedroom chalet could be had for $309 (though fees and taxes are extra). These run from the Lodge at Osprey Meadows to cottages, chalets, town homes and estate homes, all located in the resort. For lodging, click here.

Culture

The vibe: Do you want a resort with killer slopes, grooming and powder all to yourself? This IS the place. Sometimes, it’s a bit lonely out there. But, except on school ski days, you don’t have to worry if some out of control boarder is going to take out your shoulder blades. While the “temporary” domes give the place an incongruously rough and ready feel, the service, the food and, yes, the accommodations, are closer to Deer Valley than Bogus Basin.

Dining: Five options for dining running the gamut from burgers and pizza at Canoe Grill to a nice selection at Seven Devil’s Pub at the resort base (don’t miss the stuffed chicken breast).

Mountain life: As with other area ski resorts from Brundage in McCall to Bogus Basin in Boise, you don’t come here to lounge around a fireplace. It’s snow. More snow. Even more snow. You ski downhill. You ski nordic. You snowshoe. You fat tire bike. You don’t sit.

Trail Map click here

Webcam and Conditions click here