Jonathan Wiesel

Encourage Your Local Golf Course to Become a XC Skiing Center

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Moree golf courses need to become XC centers

If you’re a cross country skier in the U.S. snowbelt states or any Canadian province, you may well have enjoyed a golf course offering XC skiing – not surprising, since there are more than 250 in North America, from Halifax to Whistler, Boston to Lake Tahoe.

In my admittedly biased opinion, this isn’t nearly enough.

So I suggest that if there’s a golf course near you that has 60 days of snow cover (or managers have the vision and resources to add snowmaking and lights), you should propose that they open for skiing and snowshoeing. XC operators have learned a lot during two COVID Winters, and XC is clearly growing as a sport and business.

Simply put, we need more places to ski that are close to home – ideally places with professional-quality grooming and XC and snowshoe rental equipment, useful stuff to sell (sunglasses, gloves…), at least minor food service, and instruction. Golf course roughs and fairways can provide great sliding surfaces, while there may also be a clubhouse and pro shop that can be converted for winter. As we seem to be getting in the habit of traveling shorter distances for everything from daily recreation to vacations, having groomed trails in the neighborhood can be a huge stimulus for the sport.

Right now, many golf courses are groomed by dedicated volunteers who may personally provide snowmobiles (or ATVs or UTVs) and grooming implements. These tend to be situations with minimal services, though most have plowed parking and,often, a portable toilet.

Approach local courses to encourage winter XC operations

This concept of approaching a local golf course isn’t the result of a recent revelation. I know of dozens of courses in different regions that have opened for XC at the suggestion of neighbors, golf club members, ski clubs, or community-minded groups.

There are numerous good business reasons for courses to operate in winter. Among them: XC generates cash flow through trail fees, dining, retail, accommodations, instruction, events, club memberships, equipment rental, and more. And land values tend to increase when recreational opportunities are nearby.

There are golf courses that offer XC just to keep key staff employed; or to protect delicate grasses from skiing/snowshoeing/walking; and probably most often to serve the community – providing healthy, low-risk, inexpensive, convenient recreation and social contact.

If this concept interests you, check out https://boston.cbslocal.com/2022/01/13/weston-ski-track-mark-jacobson-leo-j-martin-golf-course-it-happens-here-wbz-tv/. It introduces Weston Ski Track, near Boston, the Grandaddy of golf courses with snowmaking. For a more technical introduction to how winter operations can best work, read http://www.golfbusiness.com/article.aspx?id=4297&bq=6yfv%5Eg433$. Or drop me a line for friendly feedback at jonathan@nordicgroupinternational.com.

P.S. Cross Country Ski Areas Association is a great resource on the sport and business (https://xcski.org for consumers, https://ccsaa.org for industry) – lots of persuasive research on the nature and growth of XC skiing in North America.

Jonathan Wiesel

BEHIND THE SCENES WITH CCSAA

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I recently was part of a conference call of U.S. and Canadian cross country ski area operators. The conversation touched on who our guests are, their wants and their needs; whether we’re in a growing business (short and joyful answer: yes!); and what we need to do to create new skiers and to retain past visitors. The questions are all part of the normal agenda at these monthly meetings; they’re survival matters in our industry.

On the call were Board Members of Cross Country Ski Areas Association (CCSAA, usually pronounced “Kssaa”), an unassuming but extremely effective force in the Nordic ski world in North America. It’s a familiar name among Nordic area operators and suppliers; less so among the several hundred Nordic clubs with groomed trails; and an enigmatic acronym to most retailers.

Group Lesson Source: Jackson Hole Nordic

As for the skiing public, about the only folks who know about CCSAA have learned of it through the logo on its exceptionally useful consumer website, https://xcski.org, which provides information on why, where, etc. to enjoy XC skiing. If you have any interest in XC, take a look at the site – it’s incredibly informative about the value of groomed trails, benefits of instruction, spotlights on XC areas and regions, etc.

That unfamiliarity is ironic but not surprising when you consider that CCSAA is a trade organization that promotes the sport but historically hasn’t tried to promote itself to the public. At the same time, it not only represents the entire recreational side of the Nordic industry (including ski publications and organizations) but generates and serves as a resource for much of the media coverage of cross country skiing.

Reese Brown, Executive Director, Cross Country Ski Areas Association.

CCSAA’s Executive Director is 62-year-old Reese Brown, a vigorous and versatile leader who has given the organization a more recognizable face and name in the industry at in-person meetings, frequent Zoom calls that discuss implications of the COVID era, and bi-weekly newsletters. Most of CCSAA’s Board are in their 50s and 60s, with, literally, decades of experience in a challenging industry.

For XC skiers, CCSAA’s accomplishments are pervasive but often may seem subtle or even mundane. Examples include helping persuade major snowcat manufacturers to explore Nordic markets; working with insurance companies to provide liability coverage at reasonable premiums (otherwise your trail pass would cost many times the current rate); and negotiating with the U.S. Forest Service to grant multi-year use permits.

CCSAA has developed a consistent signage system so skiers understand what direction to ski in; whether

CCSAA trail signage

skating/snowshoeing/fatbiking/walking is allowed on certain trails; what difficulty rating suits you best, etc. There’s also a defined way to measure trail length (sometimes called “non-repeat kilometers”). This approach may seem self-evident, but years ago some managers measured two-way routes in both directions. In one instance, a trail “network” advertised 30+ kilometers for a single non-repeat two-way 6-kilometer trail.

New in the CCSAA repertoire is primary-level consumer, retailer, and operational research, so we’re able to determine what’s growing, shrinking, or has plateaued. Knowing that you’re in a healthy business not only encourages improved services and facilities but may also enable XC areas (for example) to find new investors or loans, community partners, event sponsors, and media coverage.

So next time you’re out on the XC trails, smile at the signage, enjoy the grooming, and recognize that CCSAA may also be responsible for sensible COVID policies, inexpensive trail passes, and your use of public lands.

Jonathan Wiesel

Celebrate Winter: Anecdotes and Insights from a Cross-Country Skier’s Experience

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Over the past 50+ years, John “Morty” Morton has cross-country skied around the world, been an international-caliber racer and coach, and, as far as I’m concerned (this is homage from a friendly competitor), is the premier Nordic ski trail designer in North America.

Morty has seen dramatic evolutions in the sport – from wood skis to synthetic, wool to spandex, the introduction of skate technique, grooming snowmobiles replaced by snowcats, narrow trails sometimes giving way to highways, etc. Over these years, he served in Vietnam, taught high school English, and has served as broadcast journalist and newspaper columnist.

Now he’s written Celebrate Winter, a book filled with anecdotes and insights based on his intriguing life. It’s his third book, preceded by Don’t Look Back (1992), where he shared his story and training program, and A Medal of Honor: An Insider Unveils the Agony and the Ecstasy of the Olympic Dream (1998), a novel about biathlon.

John Morton, age 76.

Celebrate Winter is a compilation of memories, from John’s days as a kid in New Hampshire to skiing for Middlebury College in Vermont; competing and coaching internationally in biathlon; coaching at Dartmouth College in New Hampshire; designing multi-use trails for the past 30+ years; to (most recently) skiing with his young granddaughter in a backpack while she calls out for more downhills!

Biathlon is a theme tying many of the roughly 70 stories together, as are observations on the human condition (ego, anger, generosity, laughter, inspiration). He covers the role TV plays in popularizing biathalon; Coca Cola at feeding stations; weather and altitude as they can affect racing; Olympic politics; doping; saunas; holding the Olympic torch for a moment at the Calgary Winter Olympics; and a constant sense of the magnetism of cross-country skiing, its beauty, diversity, and comraderie.

As trail designer, Morty has worked with schools and colleges, lodges and real estate projects, alpine resorts and pure cross-country areas, communities and private land owners, ski clubs and non-profits. Unlike some other designers, he’s well aware of the fact that really tough trails are only suited for elite athletes, whereas the great majority of us are recreational skiers (and the bread-and-butter for most Nordic ski areas).

If having your own professionally planned and built trail system sounds intriguing (cross country skiing, hiking, running, biking, snowshoeing, equestrian…), John Morton (https://www.mortontrails.com/) is still going strong in his mid-70s.

I recently purchased several copies of Celebrate Winter to give as gifts. Many of the anecdotes are just a few pages long, making for a delightful – no, mesmerizing – read.

 

Roger Lohr

Four Bucket List New England Cross Country Ski Towns

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XCSkiResorts.com recommends these classic New England towns and areas for a cross country  ski vacation:

Stowe, VT, is quintessential New England with its white steepled church and main street lined with stores.

Source: Trapp Family Lodge

  • It’s also the home of the Trapp Family Lodge of Sound of Music fame. Trapp Family Lodge has a 110 km trail network with 60 km of groomed and machine-tracked trails. Stowe has a full range of dining and shopping options. Other nearby XC resorts include Bolton Valley, Stowe Cross Country Center, and Edson Hill.

Woodstock, VT is another winter mecca with inns, restaurants, unique shops, and a national historical park.

  • The Woodstock Nordic Center operated by The Woodstock Inn & Resortoffers two trail systems right in town covering more than 45 km. The Mount Peg trails begin on the golf course at and climb to the summit overlooking the village below. On nearby Mt. Tom, the Center grooms more than 20 km of trails on old carriage roads in the midst of Vermont’s first tree farm and Marsh-Billings-Rockefeller National Historical Park.

The Mt. Washington Valley in the White Mountains of New Hampshire has some of the best cross-country skiing in the East.

  • “Enchanting” is the best word to describe Jackson, the paragon of New England towns and home to Jackson Ski Touring Foundation, a non-profit organization chartered to provide and maintain XC trails on more than 80 private properties and national forest. Country inns are scattered throughout the region. The base lodge is accessed through a scenic covered bridge.

Covered bridge at Jackson Ski Touring Center, New Hampshire Photo: Roger Lohr

  • Great Glen Outdoors at the base of Mount Washington is a magnificent setting with 45 kilometers of XC skiing, snowshoeing, and an ol’ fashioned tubing hill. Great Glen’s scenic trail system offers an enjoyable combination of well-protected spruce and fir-lined trails plus wide-open areas with breathtaking views of Mt. Washington and surrounding peaks. On the trails is the classic New England Glen House Hotel, with 68 rooms, a pub and restaurant. For even more adventure, enjoy a comfortable winter tour on the 9-passenger Mt. Washington SnowCoach, which transports guests to an unforgettable journey to a sub-Artic world on Mt. Washington.

Skiing at Bretton Woods, NH Photo: Roger Lohr

  • Bretton Woods Nordic Center is a thriving cross country ski center on the grounds of the Omni Mt. Washington Hotel. It. The grand Bretton Woods hotel has 100 km of XC ski laced throughout 1,700 acres of spectacular scenery. The Mountain Road, accessed via a lift at the Bretton Woods alpine ski area, offers spectacular vistas of Mt. Washington from a 7 km groomed trail down to Route 302.

Bethel, Maine is home to the Bethel Inn and Carter’s XC Ski Center, and Sunday River Resort’s alpine ski trails. The town settled in 1774, retains its small-town lifestyle.

Bethel Inn Resort , Bethel, ME

  • The XC ski trails, which meander through forest to a picturesque, covered bridge are canine friendly. Several inns along the trails are operated by the nonprofit Bethel Inland Woods and Trails organization. The Carter’s XC Ski Center has beautiful views of the Mahoosuc and Presidential mountain ranges. Alpine skiing, dogsledding trips, and snowmobile rentals are available nearby.

Many businesses in each of these New England ski towns organize special events on winter weekends and vacation weeks to encourage people to get out and enjoy the snow.

If you’re into XC skiing and keep a bucket list, Stowe and Woodstock, VT, the Mt. Washington Valley, and Bethel, Maine are classic New England destinations not to be missed.

Mt. Peg
Roger Lohr

New To Cross Country? These Nordic Centers are Great Places to Start.

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If you’re among the many newcomers to XC skiing, I suggest that you take a lesson. XCSkiResorts.com recommends starting at one of the following locations:

Metropolitan Boston — Weston Ski Track, a county-owned golf course accessible by public transportation. Snowmaking guarantees good cover and lights allow for night skiing. A 75-minute session covers the basics (i.e. motion, turning and negotiating small hills). A package of rental gear, lesson, and trail access starts at $44 for kids and $64 for adults. There are well-priced multiple session packages, too.

New Hampshire — Great Glen Trails, Gorham, encourages booking on line because of capacity limits in its 75-minute group lessons. Coaching goes at a pace that is comfortable for the whole group to learn gliding, stopping, and getting up (just about everyone falls on the snow when they begin skiing). The views of Mt. Washington from Great Glen Trails are astounding.

Mt. Peg at Woodstock Nordic Center

Vermont — Trapp Family Lodge (the Sound of Music family), Stowe, starts newcomers by teaching basic techniques which help beginners get control (e.g. kick and glide motion, using poles, and stopping).  They use soft skis, which make it easier to turn and stop. Woodstock Nordic Center, Woodstock Inn & Resort, offers a 20-minute “Mini Clinic” for first timers ona golf course behind the inn. It includes a lesson, trail pass, one hour equipment rental  for $50.

New York — Lapland Lake Vacation Center in Northville customizes the introduction to XC skiing to the skier’s level of ability. There is terrain with a wide modest downhill and a run-out to make skiers feel more comfortable.

Michigan — Cross Country Ski Headquarters, Roscommon, offers free lessons on weekend mornings for beginners in classic or skate skiing. Their Winter Trails Day on January 8 provides free access and a lesson with a complimentary hot cocoa and hot dog cookout for only $9.

Minnesota —   Maplelag Resort, Callaway, is a family-oriented operation that goes out of its way to make people comfortable with new adventures like XC skiing or snowshoeing so they’ll want to come back for more. Maplelag is a community-based experience and often, experienced guests provide extra attention to first time skiers.

Breckenridge Nordic Center lodge

Colorado — Breckenridge Nordic Center specializes in working with those who are first timers. The Center gives a 20% discount on group lessons booked on line. All resort staff are ambassadors who freely offer ski tips to all. As soon as the skier steps out the door, staff is available to help skiers put equipment on, review the trail map, talk about body balance, and provide other tips.

California — Tahoe Donner Cross Country has low cost opportunities to help people learn basic ski skills. The $87 member price is for a group lesson package that includes rental gear, trail pass, and a 75-minute lesson or tour with an instructor.

Washington – Located in eastern Washington, Methow Trails has one of the largest trail networks in the U.S. On January 21. It hosts Free Backyard Ski Day with free access to the trails, free rental gear, and free lessons available for beginners.

XC skiing delivers physical, mental, and spiritual well-being. Spending time in a snowy landscape can be magical. Do yourself a favor and give it a try.

Jonathan Wiesel

Latigo Ranch: High-Country Nordic

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Sometimes life exceeds expectation. That’s what I’ve found with winter ranches in the Rockies.

In summer, hundreds of dude ranches draw thousands of visitors. They’re crazy-diverse: homespun and elegant; private and heavily peopled; mostly self-service or with staff at your call. You’ll find Spartan working ranches as well as places with canapés and kidney-shaped swimming pools.

The few ranches open in winter are outstanding – magnificent settings and staff, excellent facilities and food, and snow so delicate it drifts through the air like cold smoke. They’re run for cross-country skiers, snowshoers, and, increasingly, fat bikers by people who love the season and their profession.

Wecome to Latigo Ranch

A prime example is Latigo Ranch, near the town of Kremmling in north-central Colorado’s Gore Range. It’s owned and managed by Lisa and Randy George and their kids.

Latigo used to run cattle, sheep, and “dudes” before it totally converted to guest ranching in 1987. Once you turn off Highway 134, you start climbing, trading sage for pine, spruce, and aspen, interspersed with vast meadows. It feels like the top of the world.

Latigo can cater to pretty much any culinary taste, be it red meat, vegetarian, kosher, low carb, or low fat. Breakfast is my favorite meal. I have fond memories of buttermilk pancakes imprinted with the ranch brand, complemented by genuine maple syrup.

Latigo comfortably handles 22 guests, but you’ll seldom find that number except during holidays. Cabins are ski-in/ski-out, nestled in pines above the lodge with wood-burning stoves. This is a ski ranch, not a resort (no phones or TVs in the rooms).

50km of groomed trails lace through Latigo

Latigo grooms 50 kilometers of trail for track, skating, and fatbiking.

This is gorgeous, rugged country, with some of the most enjoyable skiing and diverse trails I’ve ever experienced. For example, the descent on Arena Run can be like silk in fresh snow; lightning in the spring.

High up on windswept Jumper Flats, you’ll find a broad panoramic view. You can tear down The Luge at sunset, when you may be greeted with a spectacular play of colors over the Indian Peaks Wilderness – 70 miles of mountain and valley snowscape.

If you’re altitude-sensitive, book a longer stay and take it easy for at least the first day. (Latigo’s trails range from around 8,600’ to 9,400’ above sea level.)

It’s a wonderful thing to ski back to the ranch on a crisp afternoon, saunter over to the Social Center, and finish the day with a sybaritic Jacuzzi soak!

When You Go

Latigo is 150 miles from Denver International Airport. In addition to trails, you can go sledding, tubing, and snowshoeing. Skis, snowshoes, and pulks can be rented at the ranch, but you’ll need to bring your own fat bike.

Adult rate for winter 2021-’22 is $225/day and covers lodging, meals, trails, and “100 % free views.” The season begins just before Christmas and runs into early March. Interested in learning more? Call 970-724-9008; email Randy@LatigoRanch.com, or visit www.latigoranch.com.

Devils-Thumb-Ranch-Cross-Country-Skiers-630x420
Roger Lohr

Buying NEW XC Ski Equipment

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For newcomers to cross country (XC) skiing, deciding on the best skis can be intimidating, especially if you don’t want to rely entirely on retail sales people or on-line outlets for advice.

Devil’s Thumb Ranch, Colorado

The following guidance about selecting and using XC gear is general and intended to help you be an informed consumer.

Note that as a rule of thumb, standard XC equipment packages include skis, boots, bindings and poles and are less expensive than purchasing components individually.

Which pair of cross country (XC) skis is right for you?

Average recreational XC skiers should rule out light weight very narrow gear (used by racers) and waxable XC skis and/or wide steel edged XC skis (used by backcountry mountain skiers). Instead, consider looking at a lightweight XC ski with a waxless base. In general, these bases include skins or a pattern milled into the base (e.g. a crown or fish scale pattern) which allow one ski to grip the snow, while the other is pushed off to glide. They also keep the skier from slipping backwards while traveling up a hill. Note that ski length should correlate to skier’s weight.

Ski choice also is a function of where the ski will be used. Places with groomed, packed trails are best experienced using narrower skis. Wider (e.g. 55 millimeters in the shovel) and softer skis provide some stability in places without groomed trails (e.g. many golf courses and city parks).

Many people try to compromise and get wider XC skis to accommodate both groomed trails and ungroomed areas. I recommend choosing one type or the other or purchasing separate skis for each type of skiing.

For many newbies, the biggest obstacle to XC ski control is the incomplete use of the snowplow. Unlike heavier Alpine  equipment which accommodates snow plow turns, with XC skis it’s important to feel the weight on the boot heel against the edged ski and command it to push outward to plow. Without this “feel the heel” and push movement, the skis won’t plow and speed will increase rather than decrease.

New gear makes XC fun for newbies

XC ski boots are an important component of the package. Most boots have similar characteristics such as an ankle cuff, covered easy lacing, dry, warm, comfortable, etc. In general, higher boots with more substantial plastic cuffing provide better control compared to a lowcut soft boot. Stiffness or softness is associated with the torsional rigidity of the boot. Determining whether or not a boot’s sole is stiff is as easy as twisting the sole. Stiffer boots provide more stability.

Now that you know, make the right choices and enjoy your time in the snow!

 

 

 

 

Cross country skiers
Roger Lohr

Tips to Buy New XC Ski Gear for This Winter

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Cross country skiers

Last winter XC ski gear was in demand like never before and all segments of cross country ski equipment sold out, with few or no options for retailers to reorder. There also was an uptick for backcountry gear and snowshoes.

Retailers are still experiencing demand and supply issues. Coupled with global supply chain challenges, everything from the components that complete a ski binding to the actual cardboard boxes in which products are shipped have been in short supply. Demand and wait times have increased dramatically for these vital pieces, further impacting supply. 

Responding to these factors, retailers placed orders as early as possible and for as much gear as they could get. But some wholesale distributors limited the amount of equipment they planned to make available in the US.

The result? Retailers may not be able to reorder sold out merchandise.

If you want to get new gear this year, here are some tips from Burlington, Vermont retailer Ski Rack:

Start Early

The earlier you begin the process the more likely you’ll get the right winter gear for you. The process begins with your own preliminary research into what you’re looking for and how you want to enjoy the outdoors this winter. Starting early is great! However, keep checking for new arrivals.

Buy Locally

Once you’ve identified the type of XC ski activity you’re interested in (for example, skiing in tracks, on ungroomed trails, in the backcountry, or ski skating) the next step is to head to a local gear shop and talk with the retail experts. They can be a great resource to help with sizing and to discuss various details, including differences between products. Consider custom fitting for all categories, to get the right gear the first time. This way, you’ll save time and avoid having to return something down the line when you find it’s not the right fit. By then, that item may not be in stock anymore.

Flexibility

Another key piece of getting winter gear this year is flexibility. There are lots of options from many brands that will serve you well. Some models may already be sold out for the year, pre-sold, or unavailable for months. It’s advisable to explore all options to see what the best fit may be, even if it’s not your first choice, but ACT FAST! If you find something you want at the store, don’t wait. It could be gone the next day or the next hour.

 

Jonathan Wiesel

Yellowstone’s Winter Magic

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SOURCE: YELLOWSTONE EXPEDITIONS

In 1991, while guiding a small group in Yellowstone National Park, I tried to describe walking outside as the sun rose one February morning near Old Faithful:

“Morning light pours over the hills, reflecting off the frost in a blinding cloud of diamonds. Elk and bison shake snow off their backs, stirring after a long night’s chill. Duck and geese stretch and preen. Billows of geyser steam hover and settle, creating dense, lacy patterns on bowed pine branches. Yellowstone tastes of winter magic.”

Summer and Winter

To me, Yellowstone isn’t a great treat in summer. Yes, the combination of animal and geothermal activity is unique – but this year there were close to three million visitors, June to August. That’s too many vehicles and frowning faces jammed along narrow roads.

Winter is totally different. First, there’s almost no traffic (no bears either, although they may peep out of their dens in January). The only road that’s kept plowed runs east from Mammoth in the northwest to Cooke City, where it dead ends. All other roads are snow-covered and accessible by snowmobile, snowcoach (enclosed and heated tracked vehicles), or on skis or snowshoes.

Yellowstone’s winter is created for superlatives. No other place in the world has such an inspiring combination of wildlife and wild geology. It’s rich in history; has spectacular mountain scenery; and the park’s 2.2 million acres are yours without crowds or pollution.

Getting There

Yellowstone is located in the northwest corner of Wyoming, with little extensions north into Montana and west into Idaho.

To enter the park, you can travel north from Jackson Hole; west from Cody, Wyoming; or east from West Yellowstone, Montana. My favorite (fourth) route is east from Bozeman to Livingston; south through the Paradise Valley; pass through the sleepy town of Gardiner; and drive up to Mammoth Hot Springs, where you can overnight at the venerable Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel, with elk grazing outside the ground floor windows.

Using Mammoth as a base, you can drive toward Cooke City, with a lot of photos stops for wildlife in the Lamar Valley, and then backtrack.

Heading South

From Mammoth you can get to Old Faithful by snowcoach or snowmobile, sight-seeing, skiing, and snowshoeing along the way. Norris Geyser Basin and the jaw-dropping Canyon of the Yellowstone River, with ice-laden and thunderous falls, are natural stops.

The center of the park is a volcanic crater, 40 miles across, with the world’s greatest concentration of geothermal features: geysers and fumaroles, mud pots and hot pools. One of my favorite Yellowstone memories is a morning ski on a snow-covered wooden boardwalk, watching a bison standing above a steam vent, basking in the warm air billowing around his belly.

Snowpack around Mammoth can be thin, but Old Faithful has reliable conditions and all kinds of good trails. You’re guaranteed to see lots of elk and bison, maybe coyotes, possibly wolves.

SOURCE: YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK LODGES

In winter, bison are relatively indifferent to humans, since they’re intent on scarce forage and surviving sometimes bitter cold, but it’s not something to count on. I’ve skied within feet of a bison, on a narrow trail with a cliff to one side and sheer drop on the other. We came around a corner and there they were. We carefully didn’t make eye contact with the cows and calves that plodded toward us, and I could hear muttered prayers from the other skiers (my teeth were chattering too hard to enunciate).

Of all the times I’ve visited Old Faithful, the most indelible and endearing memory isn’t a glorious streamside tour, two feet of light fresh snow, or being mock-charged by a bull elk. It’s the smiles on three kids’ faces as one cold morning they dropped tablets of food coloring in glasses of hot water, ran outside the Snow Lodge, and threw them in the air! It was a cold morning, and the droplets turned into rainbows of frozen mist – blue, red, green – that slowly drifted in the breeze and disappeared. So a half-dozen of us adults did the same thing.

Now, that’s magic.

Resources

The Mammoth Hotel and the Old Faithful Snow Lodge provide Yellowstone’s only winter accommodations and dining other than yurt village/guide service Yellowstone Expeditions (https://yellowstoneexpeditions.com/). They typically open for the season mid-December 20th through early March.

You can book accommodations by contacting Yellowstone National Park Lodges (https://www.yellowstonenationalparklodges.com/). For a snowcoach tour, I’d recommend Yellowstone Alpen Guides in West Yellowstone (https://seeyellowstone.com/), especially if you want skiing or snowshoeing.

Roger Lohr

Make More Tracks: A Personal Note At The End Of The Season

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XC Has Grown In Participation. Hopefully, Make More Tracks Played A Role.

Dawn, Appleton Farms, Ipswich, MA. Credit: NSNA

The Make More Tracks Resource Guide and series of articles in each issues since October was conceived to provide readers of SeniorsSkiing.com with information to expand their options in the winter of the pandemic. It was intended to provide info and perspectives about mostly XC skiing.

As someone who dreamed about skiing as a little suburban boy and has skied since high school, I’ve found that mixing my snow sports is a great idea for my body and mind.  It appears on first look that XC skiing is “too much work” compared to riding the lift and pointing down to let gravity take the effort. The fact is that XC skiing can be done at any individual’s pace that is comfortable. You can avoid the uphill trails, you can ski for as long as you like, you can rent equipment at a XC ski area where the trails are groomed, tracked and maintained regularly, and you have many other options with XC skiing. The physical, psychological, and spiritual wellness association with XC skiing are simply undeniable.

Snowy day in the Lincoln Woods.

The folks who produce SeniorsSkiing.com felt that the pandemic would impact the alpine skiing experience.  Even though the vast majority of readers of SeniorsSkiing are not into XC skiing, it was assumed that perhaps this would be the year that alpine skiers would consider trying it. The statistics at the national Cross Country Ski Areas Association tell us that all the XC ski areas saw many alpine skiers trying XC skiing this year. We hope that Make More Tracks played a part for SeniorsSkiing.com readers to decide to try XC and that they had a new and meaningful experience, one that will continue for years to come.

As the SeniorsSkiing.com Cross Country Ski and Snowshoe Editor, I want to thank Mike Maginn, Jon Weisberg, and Jonathan Wiesel for their wisdom and roles in producing the Make More Tracks Resource Guide and article series for the readers of SeniorsSkiing.com.

So, next winter on a sunny day in the high teens or low twenties, consider dressing lightly, visiting a XC ski area and go experience natural outdoors on XC skis. You’ll be glad that you did!

 

Editor Note: Visit Roger’s XCSkiResorts.com to learn where you can stay and XC ski in delightful inns and lodges across the US.

Roger Lohr

Make More Tracks: XCSkiResorts.com Saw Boost

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Increased Interest In Nordic Makes XC Site A Place For Information.

XCSkiResorts.com publisher Roger Lohr and wife Kimberly at Bretton Woods. That’s Mt. Washington in the background.

XCSkiResorts.com was established in 2003 as a major source of information for recreational and travel-oriented cross country skiers and snowshoers and it entered uncharted waters when the pandemic hit. Would anyone want to travel to go cross country skiing?

According to site founder and editor Roger Lohr, “The response was the best year ever for the site in terms of visitation, but what I really enjoyed were the unprecedented number of phone calls to talk about cross country skiing with people.”

They wanted to talk about where to go, equipment to use, and what the different ski areas were like. Lohr commented, “Due to the COVID situation there were astronomical increases in visitation on the site in December as many people were thinking about cross country skiing, and then January and February continued growing.  Obviously, getting outdoors on cross country skis was viewed as a good thing to do to stay safe.” He added, “People are looking for information about cross country skiing and there is plenty of content on a variety of topics to be found on XCSkiResorts.com.”

The site focuses on information about where to go and what to do for cross country skiers. Lohr stated, “This is a difficult segment to reach compared to cross country ski racers.  I try to create interesting themes to engage these occasional cross country skiers.” There are recommendations for cross country skiing family destinations and food events, tips on getting started, romantic vacations, ski areas that have invested in sustainability, what to wear, and the newest gear. The Top 10 Page, which is the most popular page on the site has more than a dozen different category lists.

Much of the content on XCSkiResorts.com is also posted on other sites such as SeniorsSkiing.com, where Lohr joined Jonathan Wiesel of Nordic Group International to contribute content for the Make More Tracks Resource Guide and article series. XCSkiResorts.com content can also be found on SnoCountry.com, WhitebookSki.com, SunandSkiAdventures.com, BraveSkiMom.com and others as well as the @XCSkiTravel Twitter feed.

The site includes resort pages that are segmented by region featuring about 50 ski areas across the nation including a few state association pages. There are also hundreds of shorter descriptions for ski areas that do not have a separate page. The article content is separated into sections such as resort features, products, personalities, and sustainability, all focused on cross country skiing.

XCSkiResorts.com was initiated in 2003 as a partnership with SkiAmerica. Lohr commented, “I’ve been dedicated to getting more people to go cross country skiing and snowshoeing more often since I got involved in snowsports, and I expect to continue plugging away at it.”

XC resorts like Great Glen Trails in NH offer groomed trails, lodge, instruction. Accessible and affordable.

 

Pat1
Pat McCloskey

Make More Tracks: “When All Else Fails, We Still Have Trails”

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A Network Of Trails Run By Community Foundation Offers Multi-Use Recreational Activities.

Pat rides tubby tires, taking a break from skis. Round Valley, UT, has 25 km of trails for XC, biking, hiking. Summer activities include trail running, horse riding, mountain biking in the Park City area. Credit: Pat McCloskey

The motto above is the moniker of one of the most interesting trail systems I have seen to date. Round Valley, near Park City, UT, is a paradise for cross country skiers, fat bikers, hikers, and dog walkers. The well groomed trails encourage multi- use and 25 kilometres is groomed for traditional cross country skiing and freestyle XC over 700 acres of preserve.

This preserve was once slated for development until some of the townspeople thought better and put together a foundation to encourage an alternate use for the land. Click here to read about the Mountain Trails Foundation. They were successful, and today, it is a very popular place for recreation. Well marked, and used for many pursuits, it shows how forward thinkers can offer an alternative to the rabid development of available land for housing or commercial pursuits. Especially in a town where recreation is king.

Not only are the trails well marked and groomed, but there is a sense of pride that you can feel there with all the activity. Some of the different things that I noticed was the general health and shape of the people who regularly use the system. At altitude, it is impressive to see older people skating up a steep hill on freestyle XC skis. With a big smile on their face they greeted us as they hammered up the hill to the summit which has a breathtaking view of the surrounding Wasatch Mountains. You could see fat bikers off in the distance climbing on miles of trails and the traditional cross country skiers making good use out of the track setting. Gliding along they smiled and said hello as their dogs followed in hot pursuit.

Lots of dogs play with their humans along the way. Credit: Pat McCloskey

Speaking of dogs, I was amazed at how many of them were along with the hikers, skiers, and riders . At no time did they interfere with activity and they seemed to know to get to the side when going downhill so as not to impede the progress of their owners. All off leash, they seemed to have a sense of how to move with the flow of traffic and at no time did they seem like a menace to anyone on the trails.  Even the dogs are welcomed to get into shape and never avoid a hill for fitness. But their sense of the trail layout and the difficulty of some trails and the gentle grade of others showed me that man’s best friends are more aware than I thought.

I always say when I venture west how impressed I am with the fitness of people out there. Even “older” folks seem to be in great shape and don’t let their advancing age hinder their pursuit for outdoor activities and the great visuals of the Wasatch. I suppose if you have over 300 days of sunshine, world class skiing, water sports, and multi use trail systems like Round Valley, you really have no excuse not to take advantage of the great outdoors. They have a great life out there.

For more information on a really well thought out recreation area, check out Mountain Trails and see for yourself how active people can make a difference to better their lives and other lives as well.

Dawn at Round Vally from the grooming team. Credit: Mountain Trails

 

 

seniorsskiing

Make More Tracks: Favorite Nordic Centers In Colorado

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Small Ranch Resorts And Large Scale Nordic Centers Span The State.

[Editor Note: This article by Pete Wilson first appeared in The Nordic Approach.] 

In this state of mile-high life, opportunities to elevate your outdoor activities abound. Taking a page from the book of their Alpine resort neighbors, these cross-country ski areas center their offerings around the spectacular peaks of the southern Rockies—though in a slightly different way than downhill does it. Rolling and widely varied terrain lets Nordic skiers, fat-bikers and snowshoers work their way up and around some of the countries most magnificent slopes, giving them access to exclusive vistas, and breathtaking drops on the way back down. A combination of small ranch-resorts and larger scale Nordic Centers, the ski venues surveyed here span the breadth of Colorado’s natural bounty and the various adventures it has in store. For explorers of every age and inclination, if you’re Colo-ready, Colorado awaits!

ASPEN SNOWMASS NORDIC CENTER

Recognizing that Nordic skiing is something so incredible that everyone should have access to it, the volunteer board which oversees Aspen Snowmass works hard to maintain it as one of the largest free trail networks in the country. This awesome array of routes connects three towns—Aspen, Snowmass, and Basalt—and their respective trail networks into one massive adventure waiting to be had. Start from any of the towns, or from either of the two Nordic centers (yes, two!), and perhaps go check out the view from Buttermilk Ski Area, or continue on the trail for lunch in Aspen village, or simply cruise to your heart’s content. Plan your outing here!

GOLD RUN NORDIC CENTER

As its name suggests, this Breckenridge destination really is a gold mine for fun-seeking families. The skiing is excellent—30 km of beautifully groomed trails for both skate and classic skiing. Beyond that though, this nugget of a Nordic center boasts 15 km of dedicated snowshoe trails, a full fleet of fat bikes for rental, sleigh rides and more! Learn more about all of Gold Run’s golden opportunities, along with its punch pass system and ticket deals here!

KEYSTONE NORDIC CENTER

Just outside of Frisco, this humble Nordic Center promises memorable experiences for the whole family. For the seasoned skier, Keystone’s nine miles of trails combined with the adjoining White River State Park’s 35 miles offer thrillingly hilly fun. For dedicated snowshoers, the Perimeter Snowshoe Trail gives a wholly different perspective of area, taking you deep into the Keystone backcountry. And for the littler ones, a safe-yet-stimulating tubing hill is just a short walk from the lodge, where kids can do loops sledding down and hiking up for days. For the grown-ups, be sure to wind up back at the Nordic Center bar for some après-ski sips after your outing. Read about all of Keystone’s excellent amenities here!

VISTA VERDE GUEST RANCH

A smaller trail system of predominantly meadowy and gently hilly terrain, Vista Verde is geared towards getting their guests out on snow for their first times. And for this purpose, the place is perfect. A dedicated staff of Nordic pros will outfit Ranch guests with well-fitting, complementary equipment, and then give careful instruction, gentle advice or guided ski tours as you require. Trails loop across sprawling fields, over babbling brooks, through the aspen stands, and all the way back to the Ranch—where, it might go without saying, excellent lodging and fine-dining fare are to be readily found. Learn more, and book your trip, here!

HOWELSEN HILL

Owned and operated by the city of Steamboat Springs, Howelsen Hill is renowned as America’s oldest operating ski area—and though its most famous for its Alpine creds, this little mountain has some serious Nordic terrain. With 21 km of widely varying trails, ranging from flats to fairly intense climbs and drops, Howelsen’s adds a bevy of possible activities to your next Steamboat trip. Learn more here!

BRECKENRIDGE NORDIC CENTER

Just a few minutes’ drive from downtown Breckenridge, this family-oriented Nordic center has been granting visitors access to thousands of acres of the area’s most picturesque terrain for almost half a century. Not only do 30 km of well-cared-for trails wind their way up to above 10,000 feet elevation, stopping at two hand-hewn “destination huts,” but the Center offers group tours of the same terrain from the warm comfort of glass-enclosed snowcats. After you’ve made it up to the continental divide and had a little break in one of the warming huts, be sure to circle back to the Lodge for happy hour and a hearty bowl of soup! Learn more about this unique Breckenridge destination here.

FRISCO NORDIC CENTER 

Conveniently located just outside downtown Frisco, this high-altitude Nordic Center has something for every skier. Work your way up to the summit’s panoramic views of the Breckenridge region, or tootle around with the kids on the flatter, but no less fun, beginner’s loop. Plus, for even more kid-friendly activities, just down the road is the Frisco tubing hill and beginner’s ski hill. With 27 km of crisply groomed trails though, there’s more than enough adventure on the Center’s spacious land. Learn more here!

CRESTED BUTTE NORDIC CENTER

A gem of Colorado Nordic skiing, the Crested Butte Nordic Center’s super-convenient downtown location lets users hop on the trails without any driving—just walk from your home, hotel, or VRBO! In minutes you can be geared up and out on over 50 km of world class terrain. While skiing in Crested Butte, be sure to stop in at the trailside Magic Mountain Yurt for a chef-chosen dinner menu. The mile route to the yurt is lit by solar lights, so you can easily ski or snowshoe out for an exquisite and absolutely memorable meal. See why some call Crested Butte the Nordic Capital of Colorado here!

DEVIL’S THUMB RANCH

Ranked the #1 Cross-Country Ski Resort in the country for two years running by USA Today, this luxury Ranch’s Nordic terrain is a sight to behold. With 120 km of expertly maintained trails winding their way through the foothills of the continental divide, there is something to wow skiers of every skill level. The resort’s in-house outfitter, Zach’s Mercantile, offers a full range of skate and classic Nordic equipment for rental or purchase. Plus, a team of world-class Nordic instructors stand ready to give visitors and guests all the instruction you need to have the best possible ski experience. Check out this wondrous Colorado destination here!

SNOW MOUNTAIN RANCH

Tucked well up in the Rockies, a ways West of Denver, Snow Mountain Ranch cares for over 5,000 acres of pristine Colorado ski terrain. At 9,000 feet in elevation, it’s not called Snow Mountain for nothing—averaging around 200 inches per winter, which bring dependably fantastic conditions to all of the Ranch’s 120 km of trails. If you’re not too busy exploring the endless ski adventures, be sure to check out the tubing hill and the ice rink—and to grab a yummy bite at the Skinny Ski Café! Whatever you decide to do, you can’t go wrong in this unique winter wonderland. Learn more here.

LATIGO RANCH

Continuing the proud Colorado tradition of guest Ranches with excellent cross-country ski terrain, Latigo Ranch has centered their winter programming on their stellar backcountry and Nordic terrain. And with 50 km of beautiful trails, meticulously groomed for both skate and classic, plus another 200 square miles of deep powder perfectly suited for backcountry skiing, its easy to see why. Luckily for us, these wonderful trails are open to the public. If you do go for a day trip, consider booking a lunch or dinner reservation at Latigo’s elegant-Western restaurant. You can find more information about this secluded ski destination here!

TELLURIDE NORDIC ASSOCIATION

Bringing together the impeccable ski terrain of six different areas, the Telluride Nordic Association (TNA) maintains and gives users free (though donations are encouraged) access miles upon miles of gorgeous cross country trails. Ranging from the dog-friendly hills of Priest Lake to the classic-skiing-only River Trail, perfect for the Nordic tourer, TNA has something for everyone. Their Nordic Center in downtown Telluride also offers top of the line rental equipment, tuning services, and lessons. You can even ask about multiday rentals, to keep you going during your whole stay in Telluride! Learn more here.

ELDORA NORDIC CENTER

Branching off to the left of Eldora Mountain’s alpine trails, the Nordic Center’s 40 km of wide, well-groomed thoroughfares show off all that the mountain has to offer, albeit from a different perspective than the chairlift-accessed terrain. Winding through old-growth forests, alpine meadows and alongside big-mountain viewpoints, these trails are sure to get your blood pumping and your senses stimulated. With the added amenities of Eldora’s on-mountain restaurant, bar and smoke shack, you can easily make any outing on these excellent trails extra memorable. Plan your adventure here!

TENNESSEE PASS NORDIC CENTER

A dedicated Nordic ski hub, Tennessee Pass takes a classic Alpine ski lodge approach to cross country. 30 km of trails extend out from a central building furnished with all the Nordic and Nordic-related equipment you could want available for rental and purchase, a bar and restaurant, and a spacious sunny deck on which to relax. The trails themselves are excellently maintained and vary in difficulty from beginner flats to expert climbs. Just to add to the magic of this place, Tennessee Pass has a collection of off-the-grid sleeping yurts available for group or individual rental.

ASHCROFT SKI TOURING

A bit of an oddity in the ski world, Ashcroft Ski Touring is a ski center that doubles as the Pine Creek Cookhouse restaurant. At Ashcroft, you can peruse the 35 kilometers of stunning Aspen wilderness by day, and by night peruse the mouthwatering entrees that the locally-sourced, chef-driven restaurant has to offer. In addition to the Cookhouse, this wondrous trail network also makes stops at three different warming huts along its gorgeous loops. Be sure to check out their especially awesome all-inclusive tours—which cover trail fees, rentals and a delicious meal. Learn more about this wonderful aberration here!

seniorsskiing

Make More Tracks: Favorite Nordic Centers In The Northwest

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Cascadia Contains Cross-Country Resorts Close To Metro Areas.

[Editor Note: This article by Pete Wilson first appeared in The Nordic Approach.] 

The Pacific Northwest of the contiguous US is a wonderfully strange bit of geography. The Western edge is home to the fjord-filled Pacific Coast, where long beaches and towering seaside rock formations make for otherworldly getaways. Go the other direction, East and inland, and the mountains await. The Coast, Cascade, Olympic and Columbia mountain ranges boast massive snowcapped peaks and thick, lush temperate rainforests at the lower elevations. All this is to say that the landscapes of Oregon and Washington are utterly unique, with highland regions that turn quite alpine in the winter months. A smattering of excellent Cross Country ski venues dots this snowy swath of Cascadia, which all offer a Nordic experience unlike any others. At these awesome centers, you can cross glaciers, gaze upon craggy horns of ice, bob beneath the snow-laden branches of ancient redwoods—all within driving distance of the bustling metropolises of Portland and Seattle, and the thriving maritime world of the coastline.

Methow Trails
METHOW TRAILS

With a staggering 200km of well-maintained terrain sprawled along the majestic Methow Valley, the Methow Nordic Ski Trail System is at the pinnacle of Pacific Northwest adventure. Not only do the near-endless trails (which are designed for fat biking and snowshoeing as well as skiing) wind their way to some breathtaking vistas and natural features, they incorporate plenty of climbs, drops and flats fit for skiers, bikers and shoers of every stripe and skill level. Bookended by the twin towns of Winthrop and Twisp—and yes, the town of Twisp exists, and is an awesomely artsy destination in its own right—visitors to the Methow valley will find plenty in the way of libations, delicious meals, and warm hospitality.

LEAVENWORTH WINTER SPORTS CLUB

Cradled in the heart of the Cascade mountains, this one-of-a-kind winter sports club offers everything from Nordic skiing, sledding and tubing to alpine skiing and fat biking. This wintery wonderland as all the infrastructure needed for such a slew of activities: two groomed ski hills serviced by rope tows, 26 kilometers of pristinely groomed Nordic terrain, dedicated Nordic trails, and even a 27-meter ski jump are all available to make lasting memories for Leavenworth visitors. With trail passes starting at $14, be sure to check out this Washington gem whenever you’re in the area.

Leavenworth Winter Sports Club
49 DEGREES NORTH NORDIC CENTER

Tucked away in the far Northeastern corner of Washington (as the name suggests), 49 Degrees’ gorgeous Nordic network expands out from the Cross Country Center, a large yurt with a spacious deck that overlooks the trails and ski school area. From there, 25km of wide, well-groomed trails roll along into hundred-year-old forests, crisscrossed by narrow snowshoe paths. A full rental lineup and certified ski instructors stand ready to make ski days special for skiers of every ability.

MT. BACHELOR NORDIC CENTER

Considered one of the premier Nordic centers in Oregon, Mt. Bachelor is a fully decked out Cross Country Ski Shop, with the ski terrain to match. Almost 60 km of widely varied terrain wind around the base of the big peak, offering stunning views of the snowcapped, glacial peaks, leg-burning climbs and heart-pumping drops. For those looking to get some off-season training or free skiing in, it is worth noting that Mt. Bachelor has the longest groomed Nordic season in North America.

Tea Cup Nordic
MT. HOOD MEADOWS NORDIC CENTER

Perched at the base of Mt. Hood, the Meadows Nordic Center takes full advantage of the excellent snow conditions it inherits from the glacier looming above it. 15 km of groomed and set track wind through woods and across meadows with Hood poised as a picturesque backdrop behind it. For a perfect blend of big mountain views with small ski center accommodations and attention to detail, be sure to swing by Meadows if you are in the Bend, OR area.

 

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seniorsskiing

Make More Tracks: Top Nordic Centers In The Midwest

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Here Are Five At The Top Of The List.

[Editor Note: This article by Pete Wilson first appeared in The Nordic Approach, the site of the Cross Country Ski Area Association.]

Midwest terrain is ideal for cross-country skiing.

Generally speaking, the midwestern states make up an overlooked bit of the country—literally, the fly-over states. And sadly, this wild misjudgment often extends to the world of outdoor activities. It’s easy to think of the old woods of the East and the vast mountains of the West as focal points for things like Nordic skiing; in truth, the Midwest is chock full of world-class country ski terrain and culture. Between the region’s breathtaking plains and dense rolling woods, working fields and forgotten valleys, it offers ample opportunity for amazing winter exploration. Below are some of our favorite Nordic centers in the Midwest, all of which combine a warm plains-state hospitality with unique and visit-worthy trails into your next ski destination.

ABR TRAILS

Tucked on the Western edge of Michigan’s Upper peninsula, almost in Wisconsin, the family owned and operated ABR Trails (Active Backwoods Retreat) takes full advantage of the Lake Superior Snowbelt in which it sits. Over 60 km of expertly groomed trails climb, drop and meander along the nearby Montreal river, reaching the heights of Blueberry Bluffs and the Hautanen Highlands and the lows of Coyote Canyon. In order for every skier to easily find the perfect route, trails are divided into loops that each offer a different level of difficulty. ABR’s professional staff (whose grooming skills are so honed they host clinics on Nordic trail building and grooming) stand ready to set you up with gear, advice, warm beverages, and whatever else you may need to keep exploring their nearly endless terrain.

ABR
GIANTS RIDGE

Originally designed as a training facility for Olympic skiers, it is no surprise that Giants Ridge towers today as a pillar of world class skiing. With over sixty kilometers of meticulously maintained trails expanding in broad loops over the hills that stretch out westward from Lakes Wynne and Sabin, memorable skis are guaranteed. Combine their epic terrain with the reliably snowy Northwoods winters, and it is quickly clear why Giant’s Ridge remains such a prized destination. Backed by the indulgent amenities of a large resort, Giant’s has a near endless array of activities, lodgings, and meal options ready to make create a unique ski getaway for every guest.

MAPLELAG RESORT

It is not often you strike upon a resort that places cross country skiing at the heart of its guest experience. Originally a maple sugaring operation, Maplelag has converted their 600 acres to pristine ski terrain, while the various buildings on the property now accommodate upwards of 200 guests. Boasting 64 km of trails flanking the frostily picturesque Little Sugarbush Lake, two onsite saunas, and a half a dozen uniquely comfortable lodging options, this erstwhile outpost updates the best Nordic traditions with Minnesotan hospitality and North American grandeur. The last chunk of forest before the Rockies, Maplelag is well worth a stop on your next trip to the Northern Midwest.

 
SOLBAKKEN RESORT

Nestled along the north shore of Lake Superior, midway between the winter sport hot spots of Lutsen and Grand Marais, Solbakken Resort’s sprawling, snowy playground awaits skiers, snowmobilers, and fat bikers alike. Consisting of 58 km of their own excellent trails, plus several hundred miles of connected trails this northerly play area promises endless adventure and a bottomless supply of what the Norwegians call Hygge—“well being.” With lodgings that run the gamut from motels to luxurious lakeside cabins, there are comfortable accommodations fit for individual skiers, fun-loving families, and couples looking for a romantic retreat alike.

GOLDEN EAGLE RESORT

Sitting both smack dab on the stunning Flour Lake and alongside the famous Gunflint Trail, Golden Eagle Resort is a well-situated gem buried deep in the wilds of Superior National Forest. The Resort’s real claim to fame, though,is its part ownership of the Central Gunflint Ski Trail System. This behemoth network of over 70 km of excellently groomed trails offers climbs to some of Minnesota’s loftiest peaks, and the spectacular views to match. Golden Eagle also maintains a small lighted loop for skiing after dark—on which, if you’re lucky, you might see the northern lights dancing in the night sky.

Jonathan Wiesel

Make More Tracks: Yellowstone Expeditions

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A Rustic Retreat In Remoteness.

Yurts and heated tent cabins accommodations in remote corner of Yellowstone.

When skiers talk about great backcountry, they often cite the Tenth Mountain and Braun systems in Colorado; Sierra Club huts in California; Skoki Lodge, Assiniboine and Shadow Lake in the Canadian Rockies. I’d like to add a new destination, near Canyon in Yellowstone National Park. (Check an atlas, find Yellowstone in the northwest corner of Wyoming; Canyon is in the north central part of the Park.)

Actually, Yellowstone Expeditions is in its 38th season. And to be honest, they use yurts and tent cabins, not log huts or lodges. But “great” is perfectly appropriate, whether it’s skiing or snowshoeing, staff, dining, or the amazing landscape of the world’s first national park (1872).

Yellowstone isn’t exactly a winter secret, but skiers visit the Canyon area only when they’re passing by in enclosed heated snowcoaches or on snowmobiles, mainly because there’s no lodging within 35 miles except Yellowstone Expeditions.

The company was founded by Arden Bailey, who in summer works as a geologist who once specialized in radioactive waste disposal. (There’s a theory Arden is such a bright guy that no one in his vicinity needs a headlamp.)

The high point of my winter used to be running winter trips in the U.S. and Canadian Rockies, so it was a joyous thing to be a guidee around Canyon. Most of the time I skied with Erica Hutchings, a Renaissance woman who’s been office manager, snowcoach driver, PSIA-certified instructor, and super-guide. Come summer, she’s been a river ranger in Grand Teton National Park.

Who Are Those Guys?

Dining room and kitchen yurts glow at sunset.

All the guides are a hoot. They’re also naturalists, dishwashers, and talented cooks, working crazy hours with all kinds of clients, and carrying it off with humor and panache and quick wits. What a work ethic!

Arden’s talents include amazing stories and still more unbelievable jokes. This sense of humor seems to inspire guests, who tend to be crazy-diverse in their professions and interests anyway. Our group on one visit included a doctor from New Mexico, a writer from New York, and the owner of a trucking firm in Texas. I learned something about publishing fiction, summer weather around Houston, anatomy, movies, Superfund sites, national politics, and succession tree species after the Yellowstone fires of 1988.

A typical four-, five- or eight-day trip begins with a snow van ride from West Yellowstone to Canyon with skiing near the rim of the Yellowstone toward the end of the day. We enjoyed a novel experience along the Gibbon River—a herd of maybe 200 slow-moving bison. We couldn’t pass them for almost two hours. It was a photographer’s dream, including the chance to take pictures of fuming snowmobilers who revved engines but still didn’t intimidate the beasties.

And There’s Skiing

Here’s why people come to Yellowstone.

You can visit the park for its beauty, for wildlife, for geysers. I did it that time for long tours, powder, and downhills. It’d been a long time since I’d really skied hard in the backcountry. It’s easy to forget how few miles a small group can REALLY go in eight hours when you’re breaking trail through two feet of fresh snow.

The Yurt Camp is based at 8,000 feet, so it gets and holds 200-250 inches of snow, usually the light stuff Montanans call “cold smoke.” It’s in a spectacular area, minutes from the deep canyon of the Yellowstone. Terrain runs from long-open-steep to wooded-gentle.

I’ve always been a so-so unenthusiastic telemarker, never quite found that ideal combination of grace, strength, and technique. After that trip, I’m a certified Wannabe.

It stood to reason that 205 cm light touring gear would do the trick for touring, even for low-angle telemarking. This might have worked if the heels of my boots hadn’t kept jamming with snow. It’s demoralizing to start a turn, come round just far enough that skis are pointed down the fall line, and find the only part of the boot/binding system meeting its obligations is the toe.

Humility is a great teacher.

Yeah yeah, I know, “It’s the equipment.” But the next day I used mid-length general touring gear with a 3/4 metal edge with backcountry boots and bindings. Spectacular improvement! Even carrying a full pack, those skied floated and came around on request.

Actually, we could have skipped hills almost entirely. There’s a huge variety of trails—groomed, ski-set, or just marked—taking off right from camp, including gentle tours to places like Inspiration Point and Cascade Lake.

Wilderness luxury

Guests stay in warm, comfortable hut tents, a moments walk from the kitchen and new dining yurts. Here’s the thing you sweat for and dream of on skis or snowshoes: getting home at twilight and trying the new cedar sauna before dinner. Or better yet, a backwoods (indoor) shower—rapture!

Among my favorite moments were the intermittent thunder of the Yellowstone’s Lower Falls (much higher than Niagara); walking around Washburn Hot Springs (it’s a map-and-compass trip in); watching a park ranger skate at dusk beside the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone, just after a grooming machine came through; learning the differences between fisher and coyote tracks; digging a snow pit for evaluating avalanche potential; and the pleasure of a heated outhouse.

Now, that’s livin’!

More Detail

Packages include delish meals, lodging, snowcoach, sleeping bags and sheets, and guiding. The season runs December 17-March 7th. Four-day/three night visits run $1,260 per person, double occupancy. The camp holds 10-12 guests. Check out the dynamite web site by clicking here or call 800-728-9333.

Late afternoon along the thermal waters of Alum Creek

 

Roger Lohr

Make More Tracks: Sustainable XC Ski Resorts

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[Please consider supporting SeniorsSkiing.com with a donation. We appreciate your help. Click here.]

[Editor Note: This article first appeared in XCSkiResorts.com.]

Craftsbury has a solar array, one element in a system that provides heat.

Many cross country (XC) ski areas operate in an environmentally-friendly manner, and some of these operators, who are exemplars using the most sustainable practices, are models of sustainability in the effort to combat climate change. The operators at these resorts practice what they preach such as: using renewable energy, protecting scenic values and wildlife habitats, practicing water/energy conservation, reducing waste and reusing products, designing and building facilities in an environmentally-sensitive manner, managing forest and vegetation properly, handling potentially hazardous waste properly, and educating clientele and staff about environmental awareness.

These sustainable practices are not typically million dollar investments, but they are meaningful accomplishments, and the information about many of their practices can be shared with hundreds of other XC ski areas across the US and Canada.

Devil’s Thumb has geo-thermal heating.

At Devil’s Thumb Ranch Resort & Spa in Tabernash, Colorado, a geothermal heating system is used throughout the resort. The system consists of glycol-filled pipes that have been installed in the Ranch’s on-site lake. Heat is transferred to the glycol from the water, and then heated to 105 degrees by compressors in each building. The resort has also installed EPA-approved specially designed chimneys that minimize emissions from wood burning fireplaces and used recycled asphalt for paving. “We continue to make a concerted effort to work with local suppliers and businesses and reduce our carbon footprint at every level,” said General Manager Sean Damery.

The White Grass Ski Touring Center in Canaan, WV has been awarded the WV Environmental Council’s Green Entrepreneurs Award. The facility is heated with wood and uses about $6.66 worth of electricity a day. Environmental education is a key element at White Grass as there are regular outings in the WV Highlands Conservancy and the Canaan Valley National Wildlife Refuge, which they helped to establish.

In the northeast US, the Great Glen Trails Outdoor Center in Gorham, NH upgraded an old micro-hydro 10 kw system, which now supplies 80 percent of electric needs. They’ve also got a wood pellet heating system in the lodge and have converted more vans that tour up to the top of Mt. Washington to propane gas and installed an electric vehicle charging station, too. The new Glen House Hotel has a geothermal closed loop system and high insulation for high building efficiency. The LED lighting is throughout the hotel indoors and the outside lighting is “Dark Sky Compliant” at night. One of the coolest things at the Glen House is the regenerative elevator system that feeds energy back to the building’s electric grid.

Craftsbury Outdoor Center in VT has incorporated sustainability in its mission statement to be carbon neutral. At Craftsbury Outdoor Center everything is net metered with 32kW on the solar trackers and 3,000 square feet of panels on the roof, supplying the Activity Center with close to 70kW. Between the two, that provides 63 percent of operation’s electricity and there is also solar thermal to provide  summertime domestic hot water, which is supplemented with heat pumps.

Craftsbury has incorporated massive amounts of insulation into all of the new buildings, and locally sourced many of the wood products used in the building construction. The roof of the Activity Center is at R72 and the walls are R46. It also has composting toilets, a heat pump, and locally-sourced wood for paneling and recycled steel beams for support were incorporated in the construction. High efficiency wood gasifying boilers provides all of the heating and domestic hot water demands during the cooler months. They’re tied into the 10 million BTUs of thermal storage in the form of 20,000 gallons of water. This storage system allows them to cogenerate with the snowmaking generator, providing electricity for the pumps and guns, and catching waste heat off the engine.

Sleepy Hollow owners Dan and Sandy pose in front of one of 10 solar arrays at the resort.

Sleepy Hollow Inn Ski & Bike Center in Huntington, VT added 10 kwH of solar this summer and now has 50 kwH of solar net metering from its solar panel arrays to provide for electric needs that include power for a snowmaking system used to guarantee snow early in the season. A solar hot water system heats 50 percent of the hot water use at the inn, and the lights on the ski trail have been converted to LED lights. Sleepy Hollow Proprietor Eli Enman commented, “By April, we’re expecting to see that close to 100 percent of our total electricity would’ve been powered by solar energy and that includes our all-electric snowmaking system water and air pumps.”

 

 

Nipika is totally off the grid.

A sustainable Canadian resort that practices what it preaches is Nipika Mountain Resort in BC, which is off the public power grid. It uses solar panels to supply energy needs. The resort’s furniture was built on site with wood from trees that were killed by the Mountain Pine Beetle.

Boundary Country Trekking on the Gunflint Trail in MN offsets the carbon produced on the Banadad Trail (such as snowmobile grooming) by investing in reforestation in the area. This is a planting estimated at 75,000 trees. Boundary Country Trekking is one of the few XC ski operations that have a sustainability statement and a comprehensive implementation plan. Another Minnesota XC ski area, Maplelag Resort in Callaway, is an active tree farm where it has planted thousands of trees and has created more than 20 ponds to benefit wildlife there.

For people who seek beautiful destinations to cross country ski and want to patronize businesses that fight climate change, the resorts in this select group are the places to visit.

Cross Country Skiing
Roger Lohr

Make More Tracks: XC Ski Injuries And How To Avoid Them

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Either Falls Or Pre-Existing Conditions Can Cause Problems.

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Injuries are rare in XC, and conditioning is the best medicine. Credit: SnowSportEngland

Cross country (XC) skiing is a sport with a very low incidence of injuries for a number of reasons.

It’s a low impact sport with low sliding speed, plus the free heel allows twisting if you fall. The ski boot is connected to the ski binding only at the toe, and the heel is free.

On the other hand, there may be some injuries during the ski season by falls or by aggravating pre-existing conditions. Like the Maytag repairman, ski patrollers at XC ski areas are not the busiest employees because they do not have to address many serious skier injuries.

According to Sophia Sauter, a registered physiotherapist, about 75 percent of injuries sustained by XC skiers are the result of overuse due to the repetitive nature of skiing, while the remaining 25 percent are the result of trauma. Here are some common injuries and appropriate treatment.

Traumatic XC ski injuries (25 percent), for example, include ankle sprains, thumb sprains, knee ligament sprains, groin muscle strains, and wrist sprains. Upper body injuries are often the result of falling down. Since XC skiing speeds tend to be somewhat slow, the impacts are often less severe than impacts at much higher speeds. The recommended treatment for the traumatic injuries is RICE: Rest, Ice, Compression, Elevation. Then, slowly restore range of motion, strength, proprioception (such as the ability to drive using brake, accelerator, and steering wheel without looking at your arms and legs), and power. It’s suggested to see a physiotherapist to obtain a proper diagnosis and set of rehabilitative exercises.

Overuse injuries (75 percent) from XC skiing, could include knee pain, compartment syndrome on shins, Achilles tendon problems, rotator cuff and shoulder problems, and low back pain. The recommended treatment for these problems is a bit different. In these cases it’s important to correct muscle imbalance (e.g. tight/weak), equipment faults, and possible training errors. Seek medical advice from a physiotherapist or other qualified health professional specializing in injuries common to XC skiers.

Most people skip the warm up or preparing for recreational activity altogether, but the best way to avoid injury is prevention. This means using appropriate training progressions, maintaining physical strength, balance, flexibility, adopting appropriate recovery techniques, and treating any lingering individual alignment problems, weaknesses, and imbalances. It makes sense to warm up before hitting the trails.

Physiotherapist Sophia Sauter suggests a full body analysis with a professional to identify individual mechanical inadequacies. Also consider a specific core stability and functional strength program for athletes. Popular core-strengthening strategies might include yoga, Pilates, and a regular fitness regimen.

Think about getting in shape staying, warming up, and dealing with your injuries before going out on the trails and you can continue to have a great season.

Warm ups can help prevent strains and sprains. Credit: CONCR

mikemaginn

Make More Tracks: How To Pick Ski Length

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If You Thought It Was Based On Height, Think Again.

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Thanks to Jared Manninen from TahoeTrailGuide.com for this advice. We’re curious.  Are readers able to buy cross-country equipment at mid-season?  We’ve heard inventories have been depleted. Let us know.

 

Roger Lohr

Make More Tracks: Cross Country Skiing is Booming Despite COVID

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XC Is Hot And Getting Hotter.

Crested Butte Nordic Center attracting alpine skiers who can’t get downhill reservations.

The Cross Country Ski Areas Association (CCSAA) has been conducting online sessions with its cross country (XC) ski area members since last spring, focused on sharing information about how XC operations should respond to the COVID-19 pandemic. Discussions resulted in widespread adoption of plans aimed at minimizing risk of virus transmission for staff and guests.

For example, many XC ski areas have adopted e-commerce and are requiring on-line purchase of trail passes, rental equipment, and lesson reservations. Plans to alter the flow of ski area traffic on the premises and in buildings for safe distancing, as well as limiting or eliminating indoor capacity, have also been put in place.

With plans ready, the onset of winter has come—and business is booming.

High Demand

As per usual for the XC ski business, there is snow in some places and a lack of snow in others. But one thing is consistent­ and fresh—at least since August, XC ski gear has been flying off the shelves.

There are shortages for popular sizes of skis and boots. Bindings and ski poles are also hard to find. Manufacturers have been unable to supply enough products to fill the dealers’ needs. Adding to the shortage, an October fire at a huge Ukrainian factory that reportedly produces a majority of the industry’s skis has hampered the ability to meet demand.

Great Start

XC ski area operators attending the meeting were upbeat about the demand and the level of business this winter, so far.

Christie Hicks of Crested Butte Nordic Center, referring to the two weeks before Thanksgiving when the center in Colorado first opened, “We were slammed from the beginning, and the holidays have been through the roof with five of the seven days during the period being the biggest ever.” Crested Butte Nordic’s season pass sales were up 40 percent, and rental revenue was up more than 100 percent.

First timers at Crested Butte Nordic over the holiday enjoyed good snow conditions and great weather. The center also welcomed alpine skiers who failed to reserve tickets in advance at the alpine ski resort and were turned away due to capacity restrictions.

Richard Hodges of White Pine Touring in Park City, UT, described “business being relentless, as everyday is as busy as a great Saturday. The on-line retail sales are up 300-400 percent, with all the beginner gear sold out and significant gaps in the inventory, but we are hopeful that we can get more products from suppliers by the late winter.”

“With regard to our retail equipment, we are now almost all sold out,” explained Dustin Hite of Osceola Ski & Sport Resort in northern New York. “Indoor capacity is limited to 50 percent per the state, but all the rentals are out on most days and season pass sales have been very strong,” said Hite.

Woodstock Nordic Center is tuning up old XC gear people are using to come back to the sport.

In Vermont, the Woodstock Nordic Center, which traditionally relies on guests at the Woodstock Inn & Resort, has doubled sales of season passes with locals compared to other years despite a 50 percent decline in occupancy at the Inn. Woodstock manager Nick Mahood said, “We had our biggest day ever for revenue leading up to the holidays, and then there was a rain out. Then we got enough snow to open and increased business has occurred despite Vermont’s restrictive travel policy.”  Mahood said that many local people who left the sport for years were coming back with their old gear that they want to get tuned-up.

In Truckee, CA, Tahoe Donner Cross Country is experiencing a low snow winter so far but has had strong season pass sales. According to area operator Sally Jones, “the state has set capacity limits, which is impacting the rentals and food operations. The health authority opposes eating at the premises—even outdoors—because it wants to minimize congregation on the area’s patio.”

On a recent visit I made to Green Woodlands in western New Hampshire (recently named a top place to XC ski in the US by an on-line outdoor website), there was enough snow to ski. And out of 50 XC skiers I saw in the parking lot and on the trails, there were only a couple not wearing masks. XC skiers appear to be respectful without being told to wear masks and there seems to be a minimal chance to get infected with the virus when passing other skiers along a trail if you’re wearing a mask. So join in, get outdoors, and hit the XC ski trails!

Green Woodlands in NH has groomed trails, parking, warming huts and no fee!

Jonathan Wiesel

Make More Tracks: Corrugation For Groomed Trails

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The Technical Reason Why Ski Trails Are Corrugated.

Freshly groomed XC trails last longer. Credit: North Shore Nordic Association

[Editor Note: This article was written in collaboration with Auguste Lockwood, Yellowstone Track Systems.]

Interest in winter recreation promises to grow phenomenally in winter 2020-’21, despite—or because of —COVID-19, and a lot of us are looking forward to more friends and families on more and better groomed trails.

One of the subtle, unsung, but vital elements of high-quality (read “fun”) cross-country ski, snowshoe, fatbike, and snowmobiling grooming is corrugation. You’re probably familiar with metal or plastic corrugated panels that increase strength and rigidity for roofs and siding. Those same qualities apply to trails, where consistent, durable, beautiful surfaces are essential for skiers, snowshoers, and riders as well as groomers. 

If you’re interested in either producing or using high-quality trails, first thing to know about corrugation is something about the physics of snow. Corduroy —that’s the grooming version of corrugation —has peaks and troughs that create minute pressure differentials. These differences promote the movement of free moisture up through the snowpack to the tips of the peaks, where evaporation is accelerated by increased exposure to cold air.

The phenomenon of “hot moves to cold” describes the movement of moisture from a warm material to a cold one, like condensation on a cold drink on a hot day. Corduroy increases the surface area of the trail, exposing more snow to the air where moisture transfer can happen.

Corduroy creates a strong, stable surface if it’s in place long enough before being used. In addition to faster set-up time (“mechanical age hardening”) and increased snow metamorphism, the triangular shape of the individual ridges adds strength and stiffness. Ideally, corduroy peaks form a thin glaze that extends about 1/3rd of the way down the trough, in effect building a little ice cap. With a well-distributed load, these caps are the first defense against trail flattening, friction, and melt.

En masse, these caps are extremely strong, easily holding the weight of a skier, fatbiker, etc., leaving virtually no damage or even marks. Once the caps or tips fail, the upper half of the ridge is fairly soft, but the layer just above the trail base (about 1/4 inch high) remains extremely strong.

This slightly ridged trail can last for days or weeks under the right conditions. A ridged trail sets up faster, bonds harder, and lasts longer than a flat trail.

Fat Biking On Corduroy

Fat biking promises to become a major winter sport that complements cross-country skiing and snowshoeing, and it’s new enough that grooming for it is a little mysterious. Groomers’ knowledge about any of these sports can help create a premium product for the others.

With the widely-spaced lugs of a fat bike tire, there are two types of interaction with the trail: the lugs, and the smooth rubber of the tire. A corduroy surface makes for a better riding experience by providing consistent traction. With corduroy, tire lugs fall between the peaks of the ridges, allowing the smooth rubber to evenly distribute pressure between the tips of three to five ridges at a time.

Lugs that contact the ridges will crush the snow, digging in and providing lateral traction, while the lugs between ridges grab the edge of a ridge and provide lateral traction, without damaging the trail. This creates a superior surface, as an increased number of ridges per foot of the grooming comb has several advantages.

One advantage is increased surface area, decreasing setup (consolidation) time. Another is more surface contact with a tire, since with widely spaced ridges, the tire will only be contacting a couple of ridge tips, increasing the pressure on the tips and breaking them. In contrast, on a smooth trail, tire lugs either don’t penetrate enough if the trail is too firm, thus reducing traction; or they’ll penetrate the top surface of the trail, until the weight is transferred to the smooth rubber of the tire.

The ideal density can be hard to achieve—too hard and there’s not much traction, too soft and the weight of the rider will crush the top layer of trail, creating a weak spot.

Finally, from an aesthetic point of view for fat biking, really good corduroy leaves a small line of snow on the tire. So while riding, there are three or four (depending on tire width) thin white lines that circle the tire. This produces a mesmerizing pattern on the wheels to watch on your front tire or on the back tire of someone you’re following. The lines run longitudinally around the tire if you’re going straight, but you can zigzag and make cool patterns as they interact with the regularly spaced lugs while turning.

 
seniorsskiing

Make More Tracks: Beginning Cross-Country

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Looking For Alternatives? Here’s A Starter Kit For XC.

SeniorsSkiing.com has published several articles on getting started in cross-country skiing.  Here’s another view from Breckenridge Nordic Center. We watched all nine minutes and picked up lots of new tips, despite our many years of xc skiing.  Get going!

Jonathan Wiesel

Make More Tracks: “Tasty” Three Forks Ranch

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Luxury Ranch Includes Gourmet Food And Outdoor Sports.

I’m a winter guest (or “dude”) ranch specialist – ski at them, write about them, consult with them, love them. Which is a little ironic because when you think “ranch,” you probably also think “horses!” – but I’m a wondrously inept horseman, whatever the season.

I’ve been lucky enough to visit maybe 50 guest ranches in the West, including a bunch near downhill resorts in Colorado, Wyoming, Idaho, and Montana. So it was intriguing but not a huge novelty some time ago to get a writing assignment about Three Forks Ranch, some forty miles northwest of Steamboat Springs, Colorado, along challenging narrow roads.

I came home gushing, totally out of character for a reserved New Englander. Here’s a whole string of adjectives about Three Forks that might sound ludicrous but are absolutely true—“vast,” “majestic,” “exquisite,” “tasty,” and on and on.

“Tasty”? Ohh yes, when there were multiple professional chefs (head, sous, pastry…? – I’m a gourmand, not a gourmet) under the command of an Executive Chef. The ranch serves no more than 30 guests (probably fewer in winter) – something better than a 3:1 ratio of staff to guests.

The majestic but graceful 35,000 square foot lodge, which opened in 2008, offers not just fabulous dining – my experience was three or four dinner entrées, vegetarian options, two desserts (you can have both; I did) – but also wine tasting and cooking classes in making delicacies such as chocolate truffles. In fact, the chocolates set on your pillow are made in-house. It’s pricey (from $1,695/person/night); it’s worth it.

The lodge-and-spa is the centerpiece of the more than 200,000 (no typo!)-acre getaway, in the midst of the Sierra Madre mountains. You can fly to airports in Wyoming and Colorado and take a guided snowmobile tour on 100 miles of private groomed trails the same day. Other options are guided trips on 50 kilometers of groomed cross-country ski trails – starting virtually outside your door – as well as snowshoeing, dog sledding, and sleigh rides where you’re wrapped in warm furs and can sip hot toddies.

I didn’t try them but there’s also private snowcat skiing and ’boarding (1,100’ vertical), tubing, snowshoeing, and ice fishing – no lift lines, no crowds

The bar with art work. Three Forks has been called “A Ritz with an art collection”

St. Louis businessman David Pratt bought the spread in 1999. Pratt out-bid developers who wanted to subdivide the working cattle ranch, and then he commissioned restoration of 16 miles of the Little Snake River – a huge project that has made it into one of the most productive fisheries in the Rockies. Three Forks as evolved into a world-famous fishing and hunting destination. As a former manager told me, “There’s just not more that you can do outside in Colorado on one property.”

There’s really no typical winter day at the ranch – instead they’re tailored to your wishes. Judging by my experience (after visiting more than 200 resorts in North America), Three Forks is an off-the-charts winter attraction, with superb recreation, setting, facilities, and staff. And did I mention the food? Sumptuous accommodations? Super-nice people?

The lodge is the ranch signature piece, the epitome of elegance. At the same time, it’s an imposing building, starting with the high-roofed porte-cochere and leading to the Great Room, with a 40’ ceiling. There you’ll find an autographed 1866 Steinway grand piano built of silky polished woods – one of the two in the world of this model. (No, I didn’t bang on them keys. Now if they’d had a house Stradivarius, as an ex-violinist…)

The lodge interior is a marvel. Walls are paneled with flawless American cherry wood and imported Russian Pine, a rare knotless wood. The 6,000-square-foot spa downstairs offers massage, body treatments, and an indoor/outdoor swimming pool. There are 15 luxurious bedrooms and suites, dining, conference space, and a fitness room.

I heard one visitor call the place “Ritz-Carlton on a ranch, with an art collection” – a fun summation. The art collection was a unique melding of dominant Western with Oriental, including some pieces from the Ming dynasty. Among the more recognizable artists were Charlie Russell and Frederic Remington, though there were also paintings and bronzes by almost -contemporary artists.

Outside the lodge you’ll often see elk grazing among life-size bronzes of fishermen and Ute Indians, adding still another dimension to the remarkable winter experience that’s Three Forks Ranch.

 

Jonathan Wiesel

Make More Tracks: Nutter Butters And The Tour Of Anchorage

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Joining A Race Without Training? Hey, It Could Be Fun.

Ski the TOA. Race? Fun? Both? Up to you. Credit: Anchorage Daily News

In this strangest of times, I think back to the great and diverse and sometimes unorthodox adventures I’ve had cross-country skiing. And although I haven’t competed often, there was this one time, some years ago…

As I understand it, you’re supposed to train for a major race. Seems sensible, right? But sometimes it just doesn’t work out that way.

Chalk it up to an uninspiring winter in the Rockies or maybe just a lazy streak, but I didn’t bother to prepare for the Tour of Anchorage. Didn’t train, hardly skied, ate too well; then flew up to Alaska at the end of February, did a little track skiing. Lay awake the night before the race, thinking: “Hey, my first marathon! I’ve never done anything longer than 25 kilometers. I’ve skied three times since prepping skis. What am I doing?”

As it turned out, what I did was have the time of my life. First, you can’t help but love Anchorage—150 km of groomed trails, maybe a quarter lit, eight mountain ranges visible on a good day, and incredible hospitality. There’s a large and dedicated racing community, from kids to Masters, represented by the Nordic Skiing Association of Anchorage is one of the most active XC clubs in North America. Their Alaska Ski for Women (held on Super Bowl Sunday) is the most popular all-women XC event in North America.

The Tour of Anchorage rings the city with a choice of distances.

The Tour of Anchorage is actually four point-to-point races, 25 km classical and 25 km, 40 km, or 50 km freestyle. The longer distances begin on one side of the city and go through the center of town—strange and wonderful to pass through birch and spruce forest, over roads streaming with traffic, and along the ice floes of Cook Inlet.

I chose the 50 km (don’t ask). Luckily the day was perfect, starting off cool with great snow, air crystalline, so we had great views of Denali.

I was saved by four things. First, at home I lived at 8,500 feet, so Anchorage’s altitude was an oxygen-rich dream. (Highest point on the trails is around 1,000 feet, lowest is four feet below sea level.) I got tired enough to do several face plants in the last 15 km, usually at conspicuous spots (why does that happen?), but never ran out of breath.

Second, friends who’d skied the race said to take it easy on the first ten kilometers because that’s where the hills are. Right! They’re not very prolonged, but a lot of up and down. You finish the Tour with a longish uphill in Kincaid Park (weirdly wonderful to see moose on these trails and jets flying low overhead).

Racing fuel.

Third, I carried several packages of Nutter Butters. They tasted good from the beginning, better as I got more tired. 

And last, people made all the difference between dropping out (which was a definite possibility) and finishing—not graceful but grinning. Race volunteers kept us hydrated and full of cookies and enthusiasm; spectators yelled us on; other skiers were inspirational, like the guy who broke a pole in the first series of hills and just kept going. (We passed one another at least a half-dozen times; I stuck around the finish area to give him an exhausted cheer.)

Best of all, I talked with two people who’d skied the Tour before, and they slowed down to give me an emotional lift. Without that, they’d probably have finished in the middle of the pack instead of waaay back. (My time was 4:04:20.6, 276th out of 292 male finishers. My pre-race fantasy had been 3:45.)

So what do you do when you’ve finished a 50 km, are staggering around beaming groggily, and one of your kind hosts takes you back to your hotel? I’d hoped to attend the awards banquet but slept through it; grabbed a late dinner; headed back to bed, and flew home the next morning, stiff but not hurting.

I’d love to ski the Tour again, with a few changes. Like about two consecutive months on skis, distance training, a much higher general fitness level, and hotter skis. But there’ll still be Nutter Butters.     

Anchorage Convention & Visitors Bureau is a great resource on the region. My favorite place to stay is Copper Whale Inn, a snowball’s throw from the Tony Knowles Coastal Trail and with 80 mile views over Cook Inlet.

The Tour of Anchorage is scheduled to be held on Sunday, March 7, 2021.  Plenty of time to train.

Choice of 25, 40, and 50 km and classic or skate races at the TOA. Credit: Anchorage Daily News

Roger Lohr

Make More Tracks: Milestones In XC Skiing

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From Wooden Skis, Wax, And Pine Tar Bases To High Tech Equipment in 50 years.

Jessica Diggins with  Kikkan Randall win first Gold Medal for US XC in 2018, making Americans serious competitors on the international racing scene.

Since the time that wooden skis were found in a peat bog in Sweden dating to 2,000 BC, there have been many milestones that brought XC skiing to where it is today. In the USA, the forefathers of cross-country skiing include people like Snowshoe Thompson, who delivered the mail in the Sierra Mountains of California and Jack Rabbit Johannsen, who XC skied in northern New York.

Before around 1970 or so, XC skis were wooden, required the right wax combination to work on the snow, and bases had to be prepared with pine tar “melted” in. Since then, the XC world has experienced enormous growth and change.  The editors of XCSkiResorts.com, using various sources, considered this recent history and development of the sport and created this list of the Milestones of Modern XC Skiing in the USA in rank order of significance:

Waxless skis with fish
scale bottoms made skiing simpler. (Credit: Tahoe Trail Guide)

1. Development of synthetic XC skis in 1974.

2. Development of the waxless based ski in the early 1970’s, most notably the Trak ski with synthetic fish scales on the ski base to eliminate the need for ski waxes. The waxless base gave the recreational skier grip on uphill travel while also allowing gliding downhill.

3. Integrated XC ski binding systems, which provided substantial improvements in simplicity of boot/binding interface and control in the mid 70’s.

 

 

Bill Koch started skating on XC skis in the Olympics and changed the sport. Credit: ISHA

4. Olympic and World Cup successes, like Bill Koch who won the Olympic silver medal in 1976 and World Cup in 1982, the first American to ever win at that level. The Nordic Trak exerciser used the Koch image as a fitness icon in advertisements for years. In 2010, there was US Olympic medalists in Nordic Combined, and in 2012 there was a World Cup winner in women’s sprint.

5. The onset of the commercial XC ski area concept began in 1968-69 at Trapp Family Lodge. This brought designed, groomed, and maintained trails making XC skiing easier and safer for the average person.

6. The skating technique proliferated, creating a faster paced and higher performance form of recreation.

7. Revolution Skis developed by Fischer led the way to shorter skis which were easier to use and consolidated ski sizing and simplified ski selection.

Vintage Mother Karen XC jacket made of synthetics came out in the 80s.

8. New lighter clothing with synthetic and breathable materials was more conducive to XC skiing comfortably; company brands such as Mother Karen led the way in the late 1970’s.

9. Other technological advances such as the 2 Wax System that offered one wax for cold temperatures and one for warm temperatures simplified ski waxing, while the BackCountry binding systems provided a beefed up boot/binding system that provided substantially more support and control for backcountry recreation.

10. The Nordic Integrated System (NIS) developed in 2005 has changed the ski/binding interface.  This system combines the ski and binding at manufacture rather than at the retail store. NIS plates were affixed to the ski by the manufacturer and the binding was slid onto the plate rather than screwed directly into the ski.

The changes in XC skiing in the last 50 years has been explosive and exponential, compared to the 4000 prior years. What’s next? Better binding-ski-boot systems, warmer-adaptable clothing, improved grooming, and more resorts catering to the sport.