Tag Archive for: France

Short Swings!

A forced march may be my most effective pre-season training.

While it wasn’t really forced, our hilly, eight day walk in the Dordogne region of France was a delightful, though at times strenuous, way to get in better shape.

After a few days in the 90s, temps dropped to the 60s; perfect for our daily 6-8 hours on narrow roads and even narrower farm lanes. We purchased the trip from Utracks, which arranged for our bags to be moved to the small hotels they had booked along the way. Their maps and directions were okay, not wonderful, and they neglected to inform us of an app that tracks your movement along the trails, helping to prevent numerous wrong turns from following the directions they supplied. That said, every hotel was spotless and the meals (included in the package), outstanding.

This is the land of ducks, geese, truffles, and cheese. Every place we stayed served it fresh from the area and beautifully prepared. No caloric guilt after all that walking. The last day, we took a car part way, walked seven miles, then canoed the final leg down the Dordogne River to another tiny town and our hotel. We had zig-zagged about 70 miles; the ride back to where we left the car was about 20 minutes.

Next time I trek will be closer to the season.

The Dordogne also contains the Vézère Valley, one of the world centers of prehistory. Among the 147 sites is Lascaux, the cave network whose walls are lined with glorious depictions of animals. These masterpieces were created 20,000 years ago. The original cave is off limits, but, in typical French fashion, it is beautifully exhibited in a precise underground copy; the centerpiece of a large, modern museum dedicated to this exceptional discovery. Other sites, including the comprehensive National Museum of Prehistory are scattered throughout the valley. If contemplating a visit to Vézère Valley, it’s best to decide an itinerary and purchase tickets in advance, especially for the more highly visited sites.

Aspen/KSL/Intrawest/Mammoth

A new 800-pound gorilla is about to enter the room. Last week, Aspen Skiing Co., KSL Capital Partners, Intrawest, and Mammoth Resorts closed on the deal announced in April. The new entity has 12 resorts including Aspen, Mammoth, Squaw Valley Alpine Meadows, Steamboat, Winter Park, Stratton, and Mt. Tremblant. It also includes heli operator, Canadian Mountain Holidays. Total terrain (CMH excluded) is 20,000 acres. Total annual skier visits: 6 million. Vail Resorts is the other 800-pound gorilla. What does this consolidation mean for senior skiers? Stay tuned.

Ski Younger Now

Ski Younger Now is a retraining program for older skiers, and skiers returning to the sport after recovering from injury. It teaches low-impact, low-torque techniques to enable efficient skiing in all kinds of terrain. Created by SeniorsSkiing.com advisor, Seth Masia, SNY is entering its third season as a Signature Program in the Vail Village Ski School. Six 3-day sessions are scheduled for 2017-18. To sign up, download the registration form and return it to the Vail Ski and Snowboard School, call (800) 475-4543, or email Ingie Franberg, Adult Specialty Programs Manager, at ifranberg@vailresorts.com.

Climate Change Ends Summer Snow Camp

Camp of Champions, which for 28 years has been held on Whistler Blackcomb‘s Horstman Glacier has ceased operations. In a letter posted on the camp’s website, founder Ken Achenbach writes, “The predicament I find myself in is nature’s fault, not Whistler Blackcomb’s. In 2015 alone, the glacier lost 35 vertical feet of ice.” The camp required big terrain park features which could not be built due to drier snowpack. Other camps continue to use the glacier.

Outdoor Industry’s Political Activism

The outdoor industry is politically involved in saving public lands from private development as reported July 27 in The New York Times.

 

 

Short Swings!

I Hate Sue.

That’s the name we gave the voice on the rental car’s navigation system. We programmed her to direct us about 500 kilometers across France. Instead of doing as instructed, Sue gave us a Tour de France, all the way to the Mediterranean at the end of a major holiday. We were stuck, bumper-to-bumper, for hours. At one point she broke down, blurting out impossible directions, one after the other. We turned her off, stopped at a rest area (French toll roads have them every ten or so miles) and went analog. We bought a road map. With Sue’s help, what should have been five hours turned into nine.

My wife and I are walking through the Dordogne, a relatively sparsely populated area with gorgeous ancient stone villages and friendly people. We’re using the Grande Route, a well-marked network of narrow country roads and farm paths. Day One was about 10.5 miles; not all that bad were it not in the high 90s. A few too many steep hills and a wrong turn or two complicated our journey. After eight hours, supposedly a kilometer or so from our destination, I waved down a car. The driver took us to the hotel; about a 20 minute ride. Luggage was already in the room, a few steps from a great pool. The bartender made a Panache: half lemonade; half beer, on the rocks. Nothing is more refreshing after a very long and hot day on the trail.

A few days earlier we drove up Mt Ventoux in Provence. The temps at the bottom were mid-90s; the top (about 6273′ elevation), 15° cooler. Mt Ventoux is a frequent stage on the Tour de France, and the day we visited, an impressive number of amateurs were pedaling up and down. The mountain’s bald top can be seen across Provence. We ascended the north side. About two-thirds of the way we passed a smallish ski area. There’s one on the south face, as well. Some quick research indicated that high winds and limited snow pack make for icy and limited seasons.

Pepito leads the way.
Credit: Jon Weisberg

Day Two, feet hurting, we rode part way and hiked another 8-10 miles. About an hour in, a black and white dog with the face of a Russian wolf hound joined us. He seemed to know the route, occasionally departing into wood and field; always reappearing. We shared sausage and water with “le chien.” Later, he protected us from an aggressive hound as we passed his turf. Several hours later, arriving at our destination, hotel staff took him to the vet around the corner. The chip reader located the owner. We learned later our four-legged friend’s name is “Pepito.”

Taking the day off today. Time to rest our own weary dogs.

 

CALIFORNIA

Squaw Valley Alpine Meadows closed its 2016-17 season on July 15, the latest date in the resort’s history. Here’s pic we are sharing from snowbrains.com that shows conditions on the list day. What a season! Sixty feet of snow! 200 days of winter operation! Snowiest month on record (283 inches in January)!

Good to the last drop a Squaw Valley, CA.
Credit: RogerRomaini/Snowbrains.com

NEW YORK

The July 3 edition of The New Yorker magazine has a short story titled “The Adventure of a Skier.” The author is Italo Calvino, and it describes a group of awkward young boys forcing their ski movements and a beautiful young girl making graceful turns with no apparent effort, using knowledge-based skill. Why the magazine chose to publish this winter story about chaos and order at the height of summer is a matter of speculation. Placed in our current political context, it makes sense.

UTAH

Alta‘s 2017-18 passes are now available. As with most areas, savings and bonuses are available with early purchases.

France, nous t’aimons

MtBlanc

Mt. Blanc Credit: AndreaPerino