If skiing is in your blood, every season is ski season. So, if you’ve thought about heading to South America for a summer ski adventure, then Portillo, Chile, is the place for you. High in the Andes Mountains, with gorgeous sunny days and uncrowded powdery slopes, it’s a skier’s paradise.

But what makes it so special is something else entirely. It’s like stepping back in time to an era of old-world charm, where the Purcell family has treasured and preserved the resort experience for over 50 years.

Portillo is an all-inclusive, self-contained resort, like a cruise ship in the mountains. Visitors come for an entire week, make new friends, reunite with old ones, and return year after year. Even as new guests, everyone says hello,and camaraderie develops, partly because you’ll be seeing each other all week and primarily because of the relaxed, friendly environment the Purcell family has created.

The big yellow hotel welcomes roughly 400 guests who are attended to by 450 employees, an impressive ratio. There is no town, no shopping centers and no Starbucks, just a carefree vacation. There are four meals (yes, 4) served each day in a classic dining room, where delicious choices made from locally grown products are paired with fine Chilean wines.

Waiters know your name by the second day and might even have your favorites waiting for you as you arrive. Eat as much or as little as you like, but be sure to leave room for the homemade desserts. Outside the dining room, there is a large but cozy living room area where guests gather any time of day — in the morning, for après ski, or as I did, to curl up for an afternoon nap with whispers of four or five languages swirling about.

But let’s face it, you come to Portillo for the skiing, and it’s incredible.

There’s deep, light powdery snow on bowls, chutes, and groomers as far as the eye can see, along with bright sunshine and brilliant blue skies. The hotel is slopeside, so access is a snap. Just head down to the ski room, have your boots handed to you by someone who somehow knows they are yours, pick up your skis, and away you go—no cars, no hassle, just fun.

The slopes are uncrowded and await skiers of all abilities. Lessons are available from trained instructors, which might help you prepare for the “Sol de Portillo” guest race run every Thursday. It’s fun and friendly.

Don’t miss lunch at least one day at “Tio Bob’s,” the mid-mountain gem, where you can eat a delicious lunch, sip local wine, and marvel at the spectacular panoramic views of the Andes Mountains, which surround you.

Resort amenities include a fitness room with daily yoga classes, outdoor pools and hot tubs with amazing views, wine tastings, a very cool bar, and free Wi-Fi. Families love coming back to Portillo year after year. There are special family weeks and pricing, with lots to do: kids camp, ski school, a cinema, game room, climbing walls, kids ski races, day care, and babysitting.

Although Portillo is not on the Epic or Ikon passes, a day lift pass is currently only $51.

The Portillo ski season runs from the end of June to October 1st. LATAM Airlines flies non-stop to Santiago, Chile, from New York and other U.S. cities. From there, it is a scenic two-hour drive to the resort via a free regular transfer service in high season.

My suggestion is to spend a few additional days in Santiago, a beautiful city full of life and culture. The resort can arrange transfers and sightseeing in Santiago as well as tours of nearby wineries.

Portillo is a special place. If you’re a skier, it should be high on your bucket list. It’s why so many guests over the past 50 years have said in many different languages that they hope to see you the “same time next year.”

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Rich Silver

Rich Silver was the ‘Slopeside’ editor for Weston Magazine Group’s 16 lifestyle magazines for over 20 years. He tries to ski at least 100 days a season.

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