Steppe-ing Up in Kazakhstan – Skiing at Shymbulak
It looks like a typical ski area. Skiers and boarders clamber onto Doppelmayr gondolas and high-speed quads from Leitner and there’s a ski school for learners. I paid 8,000 Tenge ($15) to dress in fox pelts and hold an irritable Golden eagle for a photo op, cafés serve koumis—fermented mare’s milk – the local beer is Karagandinskoye, and a day lift pass is only $35.
Welcome to Shymbulak (SHIM-bu-LAK) Mountain Resort in Kazakhstan, the largest ski area in Central Asia, in a precipitous mountain gorge just 16 miles from Almaty, the country’s largest city. Ask most Americans about Kazakhstan and—if anything at all comes to mind—they’ll mention the satirical Borat films, or stutter something about “steppes.”
But Kazakhstan also has steeps, including the Ile Alatau mountains, portion of a range that stretches for 1,550 miles across Central Asia. Since it was part of the Soviet Union from 1936 to 1991, Shymbulak’s early history is Soviet-tinged. It opened in 1954 and became the Olympic training center for U.S.S.R. skiers.
Shymbulak base area credit: Risa Wyatt
Today, skiing is more than a notch-in-your-belt curiosity. It is a World Cup venue: the FIS Freestyle Ski Moguls and Aerials were held here in 2024, and it was a finalist to host the 2022 Winter Olympics.
The resort offers nearly 3,100 feet of vertical and 12 miles of groomed trails. Terrain is a mix of gentle inclines for beginners, wide-open snowfields for intermediates, chutes and moguls for experts. Guides are available for backcountry touring. In addition, it holds the Guinness Record for the world’s highest night-skiing slopes.
Stats are nice, but it’s the scenery that astounds, with razor-sharp peaks that soar above the upper terminal of the gondola, at 10,500 feet and runs are mostly above tree line. On clear days, you can see Almaty below. Other times, foggy inversions sandwich brightness between clouds. The ski season is December to March, and there are good quality rental shops both in Almaty and at the base area.
Shymbulak’s layout needs explaining. Once you reach Medeu Base Station, you aren’t anywhere yet. It’s a 20-minute gondola ride to the ski area, passing the world’s highest ice rink. The actual base, at 7,400 feet, offers rentals, ski school, and restaurants. Then, ride a two-stage gondola (another 20 minutes) to the summit or head directly to lifts for beginners and terrain parks.
The gondolas make it easy for non-skiers to reach the top. I encountered sightseers (mainly Russians) trudging to overlooks for selfies, creating a bottleneck for down-loading the gondola when the sightseeing tourists hindered the skiers. After missing five cars, I shoved past the chit-chatterers, earning scowls and probably further derailing American/Russian relations.
Speaking of which: You can’t avoid geopolitical reality. One of my travel companions shared a gondola with three Russian draft dodgers avoiding the Ukraine war. Another day, a Kazakh woman overheard me speaking English and came over to discuss her anxiety about a Russian invasion, for its rich oil reserves near its western border with Russia.
Looking ahead, Shymbulak plans an expansion linking it to eight other regional resorts, including Oi Qaragi and Ak-Bulak. New lifts and terrain would double its size, adding nearly 20 miles of trails.
Although Russian is the main language—a Soviet holdover—many locals eagerly try out their English or Google Translate app. Don’t be surprised if they ask, “How old are you?” It allows them to show respect for elders. They giggled when I answered, “70.” Senior skiers are rare here.
“Meet a guest as God’s messenger,” says an old Kazakh proverb. Traditions were born among nomads living in the harsh steppe, so hospitality to visitors is sacred, and you’ll feel truly welcomed.
Skiing in Kazakhstan isn’t just about snow. The beauty includes exploring the surrounding area, so add time for Almaty, known for Green Bazaar, a cacophonous market with everything from spices to pig snouts, and the Russian Orthodox church that’s one of the tallest wooden structures in the world.
When you learn about a new culture, it lives on in you as well.
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Thank you Risa for sharing your story.
I will definitely add Kazakhstan to my list of interesting places to visit and ski.
Your article peaked my curiosity.
As you said skiing there allows one to experience a new culture while enjoying their favourite sport. ⛷️Anna
Risa, Wow, who knew! Thanks for your inspiring story. It makes me want to know more. Where else have you been skiing across Asia?
Thank you for your kind words about my article. The history, the people, and the wide-open spaces make skiing in Kazakhstan an extraordinary experience.
Regarding other places I’ve skied in Central Asia: Erzurum in Turkey. The ski areas have high-speed lifts and good grooming. The city itself was an important stop on the Silk Road and offers 700-year-old fortifications and madrasas (learning centers).
Hi Risa, you have written a great, concise, interesting piece for Senior Skiing! Your Bio mentioned your lift ticket collection….I once had one from my early skier-years, notable was a bunch of Sun Valley tickets right at the end of Union Pacific ownership (late 60’s- I lived an hour away) when day tickets were Six Dollars !! And the tickets were essentially transferable, they had elastic attachment bands! I do have Elan skis which I bought while in Slovenia, another ex-Soviet country….Love ’em still.
Very, very cool. Thanks for sharing!
I was in Almatu and at Shymbulak Medeo skating ring many yeas ago (in the middle of sixties). The Ski resort didn’t exist at that time. It is was a beautiful place and I dreamed to ski overhear.
No I live in Boston for 35 years.
Last year I was 86 and my friend 87. We skied together at Waterville, groomed Blues. Those Blues are very “deep”.
THis year I am 87, and my 88 friend doesn’t ski anymore.
Whaat can I do?
I just got back from a month long ski trip to Central Asia. I skied in Uzbekistan, Kyrgyzstan, Kazakstan, and Kashmir, India. Shymbulak seemed like the Sun Valley of the region. I enjoyed Oi-Qaragai more as it had a more local feel. Amirsoy, UZ was the worst and I would strongly recommend skipping it. I cat skied at Jyrgalan, KY and it was super. The skiing at Gulmarg in India was epic. Steep, deep and so very interesting culturally. If anyone is considering going they can contact me for info.