Loon Mountain Resort Update

Lodges Closed. Back To Basics.

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Sunny day at Tote Road Quad.

Kudos to Loon Mountain Resort, N.H., for managing COVID restrictions so well.

Our family bubble all agreed the best thing Loon had done was shut down all the lodges to indoor food service. That simplified one’s strategizing. Grab ‘n Go food windows and indoor order options provided al fresco sustenance with outdoor seating. Canvas tents were pop-up dining halls. Quick stop locations on the mountain provided places to duck in with little ones to get out of the wind. Space heaters are placed in certain areas when weather permits. Rest rooms were available at all lodges even if closed (outdoor access) and one fancy trailer near the gondola.

We parked our rolling base lodge in the Main Lot with an easy-ish schlep to either the Gondola or Kancamagus Express Quad, booted and masked up. Lunch break was pleasant with hot soup, the heater run sparingly, and radio dial set to NH public radio. Loon does not allow open-fire grills in the parking lot.

Contactless pickup boxes, PUBs, are where you can pick up a RFID card bought online or scan a QR code to reload. Ikon pass holders need to reserve, but because of popularity can cancel, even day of (blizzard anyone?).

Ghost lines leave plenty of room. Credit: Tamsin Venn

Loon set up intervening ghost lift lines for social distancing (a few jerks zoomed down these). One employee did mask patrol. A lift attendant kept necessary order. Social distancing worked less well in the gondola line without the natural six-foot ski separation. Plexiglass barriers inside the gondola building separated the snaking queue. Some in our pod refused to ride the gondola. Nowhere was there pushback on riding a lift alone.

 

 

PUBs replace ticket windows.

Masks are required in the parking lot, lift lines, when loading and unloading. This routine broke down in the parking lots.

Nearby Plymouth State College is on a hybrid schedule so you get many college skiers all the time, not just January break, which lends a convivial air. Everyone seemed grateful to be outside skiing and letting off steam.

We deferred our Ikon passes because of New England travel restrictions. Loon is the only New Hampshire Ikon resort. Massachusetts residents, as are we, are allowed into New Hampshire but have to ten-day quarantine or produce a negative COVID test on return.

 

Snowy day in the Lincoln Woods. Credit: Tamsin Venn

Loon’s senior 65-79 pass averages $65 midweek, non-holiday through mid-March, free passes for those ages 80 and up and as a courtesy you don’t need to reserve. (Bretton Woods senior midweek pass is $39, FYI).

On the last day, we went XC skiing in the popular Lincoln Woods owned by the U.S. Forest Service The snow had newly fallen, the woods quiet. You follow a trail on either the east or west side of the snow-clad Pemigewasset River with snowshoers and dog walkers. 

In all, the experience felt pared down. You got out of your car, went to lifts, skied and rode, went big-ish then went home. That is a good thing. What will we do with the many usual options when we return to normal? And the snow conditions were outstanding.

Loon Trail Map

Loon Web Cam 

Uphill Access Policy 

Marg’s Morzine Mishap

Poor Marg. She Becomes A Poster Person For Travel Insurance.

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When I think back over the last two decades, our group of skiing fanatics have been largely injury free. We are a large group of friends comprised of both Australian and British skiers. But there was Morzine.

The Apartment is in the heart of Morzine.

Today our first day skiing, we vacate our Appartment Telepherique in Morzine, France. Our accommodation here in 2013 is a luxury condo with huge post card views over snow covered mountains. Our group of six skiers alight from the Telepherique Tramway. The day is a glorious blue with wisps of low thin cloud dispersed amongst the pines. As the sun rises this mist burns away as we exit the Tramway. The snow is firm pack with a centimetre or two of fresh on top.

Suddenly our day goes pear shaped within 100 metres of the tramway on a gentle slope.

Yes, there was an accident and when I say words like hip and femur, it sounds like it could be serious. It is. Our skiing friend Marg in fact has had a slight altercation with some hard packed powder. Not more than a couple of minutes from the door of the Tramway exit. She has rearranged the bones in her upper leg or hip or thereabouts. And this on her very first day skiing of our trip here in Morzine, Avoriaz, Portes du Soleil, France. In fact, her very first run right off the Tramway.

Marg is transferred to helo. First run of 30-day ski vacation in the Alps. Credit: Dave Chambers

We have hired a rental car and are now underway to a hospital on the shore of Lake Geneva (which in fact is called Lake Leman) in a town called Thonon. We have decided that our very good skiing friend Marg,who  has been at the mercy of the staff for a couple of days now at Hopitaux Du Lemans, Thonon Les Bains, France, needs some cheer and mirth in the hopitaux as they call it.

No more skiing for the entire trip for poor Marg. An otherwise for us, normal ski trip, covering three countries, France, Italy, and Switzerland. Skiing for a touch over 30 days at Morzine, Les Gets, Avoriaz, Champery, Courmayer, Monte Bianco, Valle Blanche, La Thuile, La Rosiere, Champoluc, Alagna, Gressoney La Trinite, Frachey and Gressoney Saint Jean. Skiing all without Marg.

Insurance is expensive when traveling, that’s for sure. But one day that policy and your insurance representative will be among your best friends. Poor Marg required attention by five ski rescue persons and a helicopter, no less. Experts all, they very carefully bundled her up, administered some drugs and whisked her away to said hospital. Never has a girl had so much male attention. She later reflected on enjoying this and some of the best drugs for her rehabilitation.

We joke about this in her private room and generally try to cheer her up. Also there is considerable discussion as to the right angle or such of the pins and what pins are where and, well a girl can never have too much jewelry, but in this case it is medical grade stainless steel. “It’s just such a shame you can’t show it off and jiggle it around,” says Marg.

The result of all this activity, unfortunately, has demanded her complete repatriation back to Oz and her vigorous removal from Morzine by that new best friend: the Insurance Company!

But seriously we are sad to see her go, and a large portion of our day is now vacant without Marg. She is now a guest of said insurance company and a very exclusive guest she is. Having an invoice that now includes a lift by helicopter and a First Class flight all the way back to Australia for her and her new best friend, her nurse. Sometimes insurance companies are your friend indeed.

 

Gratitude

Half-Way Through The Season, Pat McCloskey Takes Stock.

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My Ski Lodge. Credit: Pat McCloskey

We are halfway through winter, and the groundhog has come out to let us know what he thinks about the rest of the winter. I wonder if he will be masked? In any event, this has been a different ski year with booting up in the parking lot and eating lunch in the car or at a tailgate. The good news is that, for the most part, snow has been really good this winter, and lots of folks are getting out to enjoy the slopes nationwide.

Here in Western Pa, the snow has been plentiful, and all of our ski areas have been operating well. There have been a few glitches along the way but for the most part, I am grateful that the lifts are spinning. The outside fireplaces are roaring, and, when there are only a few people in the lodge, I sneak in early to sit by the fire, one of my favorite things to do.

There’s been snow in western PA. Gratitude. Credit: Pat McCloskey

There have been a lot of changes this year in the operation of skiing. We don’t really know the half of it, but I am sure that operating a ski resort in Western PA is challenging enough let alone in a year with a pandemic. In the fall, there were questions about whether there would be skiing this season.  However, the resorts have made it possible even though their bottom lines are probably not as robust with the lack of bar and restaurant business. Tough to survive on take out and limited indoor seating. But they are doing it, and, for that, I am grateful. When I ride up that old chairlift and look out over the Laurels, I am so thankful that I have the health and the skill to enjoy skiing. And an hour and a half from where I live, I will take it.

Janet and I are headed west in February and I will be going again in March. From what I am hearing from friends out there, the resorts are doing a good job in general. Sure there has been the issues with long lines due to social distancing on the chair lifts, but it seems to have sorted itself out as the season has progressed.  This past week, most of the west has seen a significant snowfall which will hold them in good stead for the rest of the season. Outdoor recreation is essential to all of us if we want to get through this pandemic and nothing better than enjoying the snow in the winter.

As I sit in my folding chair at the beginning of the day and boot up, I look around and think we are much better off than we thought we might be. The weather has been cooperative, and it has led to good times outside for a lot of us. So the next time you see a snowmaker at the resort, any resort, thank them. They work hard in really adverse conditions. When you see the patrol, the ski school, a groomer , restaurant employee, ticket booth personnel, or management at an area, take a moment to thank them all and tell them how much we appreciate their efforts to keep us all going strong this winter. The good news is that no matter what that ground hog says, we have a lot of winter left.

 

An Odyssey Between US And Canada

Our Traveling Australian Skier Recalls Characters, Odd Places, And Skiing In The US/Canadian West.

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Beautiful downtown Curlew, WA, a ghost town stop on the way to BC.

Have you been to Curlew, WA? We try several routes in an attempt to exit the USA, having already skied at Schweitzer Ski Resort. When I say skied, I use the term advisedly. Due to lack of snow, most of the ski hill is closed. But now we are still in the wild vacant Northwest back woods.. The landscape is quite depleted of signs. You wouldn’t think it would be that difficult to get back into Canada. I mean, the border, is 5,000 miles long.

The Curlew Saloon on Main Street

While pursuing a route, we chance upon the town of Curlew. I say town, it was once a town now a ghost town more than any ghost could conceive. I walked casually, quietly, through the door of the Curlew Saloon. I notice the licensee, silver hair, beau-fount style, piled high on her head, like Dolly Parton but raggedy eyed. A patron, her worn body reflecting all of her ninety years affected by smoke and booze. She eyed me, a stranger, with a leery eye. A stranger is noticed here.

Curlew Saloon is a taxidermist’s showcase. Credit: Dave Chambers

Ahead of me, launching out of the ceiling, a Cougar, within its snarly jaws, sharp and yellowed teeth. Further in a delicate patterned rattlesnake skin now devoid of its body is flattened against the weathered timber wall. The scene is old, faded and dreary. Several skulls and horns decorate. No one really engages with a stranger here. Two of three other occupants whisper in the quiet space. One a city slicker wants to move to a quieter town. Maybe he could move to this old gold mining town, its heyday long now a memory. I say g’day to the cowboy in the big hat. With an efficiency of movement, a vacant stare, he leans forward and barely nods a response.

The short wide Main Street looks like a western set in an old Hollywood back lot. The rear of which is littered with the ruins and detritus of the last century. Old cars, a fire truck still equipped with ladders on the side sits on flat tires adding more junk to the back streets. Part of the scene is the General Store in Curlew near the hotel on the main street. It fits in to this worn landscape, dilapidated and tired. The owner here also of advanced age sells items almost equal to her age. Brand new cassettes all covered in dust lie waiting for purchase. Century old posters decorate the splintered paintwork. It’s now a forgotten town Curlew, with history slowly seeping out of the old grey wooden buildings, like sand through an hourglass.

We leave Curlew, head north, and exit America. Apex, Penticton, BC is a ski town inside the Canadian border in the Okanagan region.  On this occasion, we find the border guards are Canadian. Almost like magic, the landscape changes to fields and hills laden with snow.

Apex resort, a hidden gem in British Columbia

Our disposition is much improved with a few new snowflakes drifting in the occasional sunshine. Here at Apex where the vertical is surprisingly anything but the average height for a Canadian Resort, we learned, that Apex is still two hundred feet higher than Whistler.

We are greeted in the morning by wafting light snow drifting down between the large fir trees. Lovely. Our mountain host, Dale, likes Aussies, he says. Doesn’t everybody. Took us on a tour and regaled us with stories of his son and daughter and a guy named Fred Smith, an Aussie, rich, says Dale, but lives in an old camper van near the resort for the season.

Somewhat of a legend is Fred. He took his chainsaw to the firs in a steep gully here at Apex and cut his own tree glade. The management of the mountain, when they found out, were not pleased but eventually consented and included it within the ski boundary. Over our only two days at Apex we have three mountain hosts. Russill with an I, Dale with an A and Fred with an E. Dale is a character and is referred to by the local skiers as the Apex CEO.

Cruising all day down blacks that are really blue runs, we had a great time with Dale. The next day we had Fred with an E and in the afternoon Russill with an I.

Don’t tell anybody but Apex is a secret waiting to explode. Russill with an I, seemed quite excited when Ray and I suggested a shoot down the back runs over at Wildside. Double Blacks and Impossible Blacks abound. There almost seems no way down. Russill with an I said he couldn’t ski down there. He is an excellent skier in my estimation. And now Whistler beckons but the snow reports are quite ordinary. We are not surprised at this a strange season indeed. But off we go.

Apex Resort is several hundred feet higher than Whistler.

 

Call Of The Mountains

A Lyrical Look At Classic Eastern Ski Trails.

Killington, Okemo, Mt. Snow. See what you’re missing, Western Skiers?

Thanks to SeniorsSkiing.com correspondent Don Burch for another great, feels-like-you’re-there video.

How Aspen/ Snowmass/ Highlands is Coping with Covid

A Major US Destination Resort Implements Its Virus Plan. Here’s An Early Report Card.

Line up for the Silver Queen gondola at Aspen. Credit: Evelyn Kanter

The biggest challenge ski/snowboard resorts face this season just may be lunch.

Covid-19 restrictions limit lifts to 50 percent capacity, but indoor dining restrictions are even less.  That means many skiers will not be able to find a place to sit to eat, even if they are brown-bagging PBJ sandwiches.

My recent pre-holiday visit to Aspen/ Snowmass/ Highlands showed compliance to social distancing requirements often did not make sense.

Some water fountains were wrapped in plastic and not available.  At others, the fountain part was shut off but the bottle refill part was operational, and at others, both parts worked fine.  Bathrooms can be immediately adjacent to an entrance door, or require walking through the entire lodge.

“Quonset”-like hut provides a place to go “inside”. Credit: Evelyn Kanter

At Aspen, the large, modern and wonderful Sundeck lodge at the top of the Silver Queen Gondola has added a large Quonset hut for the overflow.  But even that can accommodate only about 30 people at a time.  50-ish in the lodge, 30 in the hut, another 50-ish at outdoor tables – that’s enough for a 10am hot chocolate break, but not for the lunch crowd. 

At Snowmass, Ullrhof also added a large Quonset-like hut, also for only 30 people at a time.  Luckily it has a large outdoor deck area, as does Elk Camp, which has not added a heated hut.   So we’re talking about 100-or-so lunchers at a time at either spot.  That’s just not adequate.

At Highlands, Merry-Go-Round at the top of the main Exhibition lift from the base doesn’t even have an additional hut, which means about 50-ish people at a time inside.

None of the outdoor areas had heaters when I visited in mid-December.  That’s okay for a sunny day, even a cloudy one, with temperatures in the 30s but not for a frosty zero-degree day.

The four-mountain resort has been moving visitors to online touchless ordering, which has accelerated this season.  But it also is spotty.

If you have an Ikon Pass and account, or have the patience to input your credit card information on the resort app, you can pre-order food for a specific time and for pick-up at a special window. The problem is when the restaurant is at its limited capacity, and a burly security guard prevents you from entering, even to pick up the food you ordered online and already paid for online.

Limited capacity inside the “Quonset” hut. Credit: Evelyn Kanter

At Aspen, that meant waiting on line at the take-out bar, while a clearly over-worked solo employee was taking new lunch orders, handing out electronic buzzers to alert when orders were ready, and mixing drinks including Bloody Marys and Margharitas.  Not the most efficient way to handle a line of hungry and thirsty skiers and riders. 

My group waited nearly 20 minutes for our orders, tying up limited tables and chairs.  Our soups, chilis and mac-and-cheese orders were all barely warm at pick-up, but nobody asked for a reheat, which might take another 20 minutes.

And when I traded the buzzer for my lukewarm food, the staffer simply staked it on a spindle, without sanitizing it.  Maybe the stack was sanitized after I went to my table with my food.  Maybe not.

By comparison, at Highlands, I was texted when my order—a grilled cheese sandwich with tomato and bacon—was ready, within five minutes of my requested pick-up time, and it was piping hot. It was the best mid-day meal I had at four lodges on three mountains (I did not ski Buttermilk, so I can’t tell you about lunch or lift lines).

Yes – spotty.  Maybe they’ll fix it during the season. Maybe not.  Maybe it’s better at other mountain resorts.  Maybe not.

From my brief experience, it’s clear that resorts need to expand grab-and-go sandwiches, snacks, bottled drinks and outdoor seating with heaters.  The option of making a meal out of a couple of granola bars, trail mix and chocolate squirreled away in our jacket pockets and consumed while going uphill is okay occasionally, but not as a steady diet.  We’ve all done it to avoid long lift lines.  Now we’ll do it because a chairlift or gondola is the only place we can find to sit down, until après, of course.

As for lift lines, the rule is you can go up with your friends or family, ride alone, or ride with a stranger from the singles line. 

On my pre-holiday trip, lift lines ranged from 20 minutes for the Aspen gondola to ski right into the quad or six-pack. That’s pretty much standard for a non-holiday weekday, when there are normally fewer skiers wrestling for seats.  It seemed to balance out—fewer skiers and riders overall because of the pandemic filling fewer available chairlift and gondola seats.

The primary job of lift attendants this season just may be to remind everybody to cover their mouths and faces. I’m one of those who lowers my neck gator on a nice day to ski with my nose and mouth exposed for easier breathing.  So every time I came into the lift line there was a new additional step of pulling up my neckie.

This season, my hotel requires reservations for the pool, hot tub and gym, to manage social distancing.  That was less an issue than the lack of housekeeping.  At my hotel, staff enters only before check-in, to change the sheets and sanitize everything.  If you request fresh towels or more coffee during your stay, housekeeping leaves a bundle outside your door.   

For me, the issue was this new policy was not mentioned when I made the reservation, no discount was offered for the reduction in service, not even the offer of a few “points” on my loyalty membership program with the hotel brand.  Over the years, several hotel chains have offered courtesy points if you opt to skip a linen change during your stay.   

You can be sure that before my next ski trip anywhere that I ask about the housekeeping policy—if it’s not on the website—and will negotiate for either a small discount or some loyalty membership points.  And so should you.

We skiers and riders always adapt—to the weather, to conditions, to the speed and expertise of those in our group—and adapting to the new reality of Covid-19 rules is no different.

EDITOR NOTE – Pritkin County, where Aspen/ Snowmass/ Highland/ Buttermilk is located, now requires a recent negative Coronavirus test for out-of-state visitors.  Details here on the Pritkin County website

Reminders are everywhere. Credit: Evelyn Kanter

Revelstoke Ramblings

A Traveling Australian Discovers Charm, Interesting Characters In British Columbia.

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Early Season Skiing: Okemo, VT

Shaking Off Summer Dust: First Runs Of The Season

Snow finally came to New England last week whether through machines or from the sky. It finally got consistently cold enough to make the stuff or for real snow to stick. 

SeniorsSkiing.com correspondent Don Burch ventured out to see what was going on at Okemo, VT. Here’s his video report from the slopes.  If you haven’t been out yet this year, perhaps this short video will rev up your enthusiasm.

 

Hirsch Stube

Empty Pockets In Gressoney La Trinité, Aosta Valley

A Simple Lunch Turns Into A Lasting Memory In A Small Italian Alps Town.

Hirsch Stube in the summer. Small, friendly, perfect for a day of rest from skiing.

When you are living out of a suitcase while traveling from one ski resort to another and have to transfer cash and cards from ski pants to jeans daily, inevitably, one day a mishap will occur.

I am in Gressoney La Trinité, the highest town in the Lys Valley which itself forms part of the even larger Valle d’Aosta in Northwest of the Italian Alps. It’s an ancient town as are all of the towns in this steep sided valley. This is skiing Mecca to those in the know. Down the road a piece is Chamonix very nearby is Mount Rosa,  the second highest mountain in Europe. I have earned my day off. Skiing for the week in powder and steep rocky pitches, I confirm with my buddy at breakfast, today I rest.

So rest day is my time to reset, wander, and ponder in the little village dominated by steep mountain sides soaring to over 14,000 feet and will include lunch nearby.

At Hirsch Stube Trattoria in Gressony La Trinité, I order a half-litre carafe of red wine, the house special, and very special it is too, musky with dark chocolate, beautiful drinking. In addition to the wine, I add a ravioli, sparkling water and mountain bread. Briskly the order is removed to the kitchen just an arms length from my table for one.

Suddenly clutching the empty pockets of my jeans I discover to my horror: No cash, no Euros and no credit cards. OMG! 

‘Scusi, I say, to Francesca, the delightful host, I have no money. I attempt to explain my embarrassment. She says, in perfect English, “No no, I trust you, we are open all day, just enjoy your meal and come back later”. I do. 

The trattoria is almost full. A child wanders in with a Labrador on a lead and joins her parents. This seems so normal here in this mountain village. Everyone greets the dog, rubbing its ears and whispering niceties to the animal. It sniffs the floor for crumbs and sits contentedly, quietly, at the owners feet.

Here’s the bar in the trattoria.

Timber panelling, local stone, blackboard menus and timber tables decorate the space. The place is tiny, seating no more than thirty persons. The owners Francesca and her husband have owned it for three years. Prior to this proudly exclaiming they had spent a year in Australia. Yes, she says, we visited the Great Ocean Road near Melbourne. And so we exchange mutual stories about travel and restaurants owned and experiences. I promise to come back some time. An exchange that isn’t the first this trip.

The wine, the ravioli sublime with wild mushrooms and mountain herbs are swept up from the plate, every last crumb. What a wonderful place here in the mountains of high Italy. Snow decorates the pine trees in this little village shoe horned in to this steep valley. The locals are aware of the the tasty fare at this ristorante. You should visit sometime. Me, I plan to return again soon.

What: Bar Trattoria Hirsch Stube

Where: Gressoney la Trinité, Aosta Valley, Italy

 

Early Turns At Wolf Creek

A Report From The First North American Ski Area To Open.

Wolf Creek, CO, opening weekend end of October. “Fall conditions”. Credit: John Farley

After the big snowstorm that dropped two feet of snow at Wolf Creek from Sunday, October 25 through Tuesday morning, October 27, Colorado’s Wolf Creek became the first ski area in the United States to open on Wednesday, October 28. 

I skipped the first day to avoid the likely first-day crowd and to preserve social distancing, but did ski both Thursday and Friday. 

Because of COVID, during what they are calling the “pre-season,” it is really all about skiing and nothing else at Wolf Creek.  There is literally nothing open except the lifts, the ski runs, and the restrooms.  No lodge, ski rentals, lessons, food service, or ski shops.  Just skiing. 

Since I knew that on the first days I would be in shape for nothing like a full day of skiing, I decided both days to head up around mid-day in hopes of getting a close parking spot where some early bird left.  Since I would have to get into my boots at the car with no lodge open and then hike up to the lifts in my boots, it seemed to make sense to get as close a place as possible.  (Note – at Wolf Creek it is a bit of an uphill hike from the parking lots to the lifts, particularly since the lift with the lowest loading area is not running yet.)  My strategy worked out nicely as I got good close spots both days, though I was still huffing and puffing by the time I got up to the closest lift to the lots.  Of course, with Wolf Creek’s base elevation of around 10,300 feet above sea level, it is easy to huff and puff.

But once I got to the lifts, it was well worth it.  It was a beautiful day with good fall skiing conditions both days. (Note: fall skiing conditions are about the same as spring conditions, except that it is fall instead of spring.)  About 40 percent of the terrain was open, including two chairlifts serving a variety of top-to-bottom runs. 

On Thursday I had a chance meeting on the slopes with Girard, the new president of the Gray Wolf Ski Club, a 900-member club for over-50 skiers based in the areas around Wolf Creek.  I told him it was about the third time I had spoken to any fellow member of the club in person since the pandemic started.  Very strange times we live in. Girard and his wife Becky, who was elsewhere on the hill and I did not see, lived about 15 miles from us in southern Illinois, but we never met until we all retired to Pagosa Springs.  I always tell them that is their fault, because for some reason they never belonged to the St. Louis Ski Club, of which I was a member for 30-plus years and am a past president.

Regarding COVID-19 protocols, in addition to the aforementioned limitation in amenities, masks are required for everyone in the parking lots, the base area, and getting on and off the lifts.  However, it is OK to pull them down when actually skiing.  Wolf Creek does plan to open additional amenities such as rentals, lessons, food and beverage service, etc., but the date for this has not been determined.  However, the ski area itself is now open daily for the season.

You might wonder how far some people are willing to travel to ski the first and only ski area open in the United States.  Apparently pretty far.  On the two days I skied, I saw cars parked near mine from Tennessee, Arkansas, North Carolina, and Ohio.

Over last weekend, I had a Facebook messaging discussion with another Gray Wolf member who went up early Friday and encountered icy conditions as a result of the melt-freeze cycle and limited early season grooming.  That was when I realized my strategy of going up mid-day had another benefit. By the time I got there the sun had softened up the snow and the conditions were much better than earlier.  This was likely more true on Friday than on Thursday, due to the warm sunny weather that began Thursday and has continued since.  Although the conditions were very good by the time I got up there, it was evident that the snow will not hold up for too long unless we get another storm, as rocks and bare spots were starting to appear here and there and the afternoon temperatures were warm.  Fortunately, there appears to be another big storm coming this weekend, with the possibility of two to three feet of new snow in the San Juans.  And the trend to colder temperatures and the switchover from daylight to standard time should both help to reduce any further tendency for icy conditions in the morning when the ski area opens.

[Late-Breaking Update: As of end of November, Wolf Creek is now offering private (five people) ski and snowboard lessons, reservations required. Also, Wolf Creek has now received a cumulative total of 91 inches of snow and has 98 percent of the terrain open with all lifts operating.]

 

Utah Preview: What You Can Expect

Key Take-Away: Know Before You Go.

You can reserve for seven days between Dec. 8 and April 4 at Park City.
Credit: Park City

In these uncertain times, one thing is sure: Utah powder. As of this writing (mid-November), several Utah resorts had bases of two feet or more. Here are some updates of what you will see at Utah ski areas this winter. 

In Little Cottonwood Canyon, Alta is limiting the number of parking spaces, on a first-come, first-served basis, no reservations. By contrast, Snowbird requires parking reservations, made online. In both canyons, buses have limited capacity to 20 vs. the usual 60 meaning longer waits at the stops, but UTA, the free, public bus service, plans to run nine buses it had planned to retire.

At Alta if the resort is full, you can ski if you took the bus or are staying there. Only the lodge bars are open and for guests only; check with Snow Pine Lodge. In Big Cottonwood Canyon, Solitude has pay-for-parking, and Brighton is limiting skiers based on parking. At Brighton, IKON pass holders will have to make a reservation.

Snowbasin near Ogden will essentially turn inside out. It has a ticketing yurt for faster pass pick up; rented several executive bathrooms to be placed throughout the resort; built three slopeside “food trucks”—cheese fries and burgers anyone? It has built a trail to ski right to the parking lot vs. riding the shuttle. Bus users will have a baggage check next to the stop. Parents and kids can duck in and out of a yurt village mid-mountain to warm up. You can ride the gondola alone.

Dreamcatcher at The Canyons. Plenty of snow already for the new season.

 

Park City has developed a reservation system for every day of the season. Starting Nov. 6 you can reserve up to seven days for the core Dec. 8-April 4 season. Up to Dec. 7 the mountain is reserved for Epic pass holders only. All tickets will be sold online. Apres-ski? Head to downtown Park City.

Booting up in the car? Powder Mountain Resort skiers are used to it. The main lodge now has sit-down dining with reservations only. The Powder Keg is closed, but still has take-out for beer and ramen. There will be “pop up specials” at various areas so you can grab food and eat it on the lift.

Keeping employees safe is a huge issue. Brian Head Resort has a team in place to temperature-check employees and do follow-up care. Workers go straight to their stations so they minimize mingling with visitors. They will receive additional training to help them triage guests’ concerns and direct them to the right resource. 

Deer Valley notes it has always limited visitation based on restaurant seats not mountain capacity and will continue to follow those limits, noting that its vast acreage can accommodate many skiers. It will provide a mobile app to let you know where they can feed you immediately and where the lift lines are not. 

The general idea is that ski areas will do everything they can to stay open and may have phased-in closings for indoor spaces. It could be that an area has to close for two weeks, then reopen.

The main message as you’ve heard all along is this: Know before you go.

For updates, click here.

 

Summit At Snoqualmie COVID Rules: Expect This At Your Local Area

Here’s An Example Of What You Can Expect When You Make Your First Visit To Your Favorite Local Resort.

This comes from The Summit at Snosqualmie. The video below introduces the program. Thanks to SeniorsSkiing.com correspondent Yvette Cardozo for passing it along.

https://youtu.be/2yJm5pT_OiE

Face Coverings Required. Keep your mask on – both inside and outside – while at your home mountain.
 

Stay Home If You’re Not Feeling 100%  Don’t be the reason we lose the season! If you’re not feeling 100% STAY HOME and If you start to show symptoms of illness LEAVE right away.

Keep Your Distance 6  feet apart, roughly a ski/board length. Be considerate and leave some space between our staff and your fellow snow sports enthusiasts.
 
Use Your Vehicle As Base Camp. Get ready in your rig this season. We will have reduced occupancy in all facilities. When tailgating remember to practice physical distancing and wear your face mask.
Arrive Together Ride Together. Help reduce the likelihood of transmission, please stay with your group while at the mountain.
 
Be Wise Sanitize. Use our sanitization stations and wash your hands often. Additional sanitization stations will be available at each mountain area.
Singles Won’t Mingle. Singles will ride solo or on the outside on quad chairs. Please help us load chairs as efficiently as possible so you can spend more time on the slopes.
 
We’re Cashless. All major cards and forms of mobile payment accepted. You can also link your credit card to a season pass, or use our physical or digital gift cards.
Buy Online In Advance Limited Availability. All tickets, products and services will be sold online this season. Plan ahead and visit our website to book everything in advance.
 
No Brown Bagging. Seating inside is for restaurant patrons only. No outside food, beverages, containers, utensils, or cups inside our lodges please.
Reduced Visitation. Season pass and lift ticket sales will be limited in order to reduce the number of people on the mountain and in our facilities, especially on peak days.
 
Avoid Busier Days/Times. To ski or ride with fewer people head to the mountain evenings, afternoons, or midweek. You can also save money by visiting during off-peak times.
We’re In This Together. Be patient & respectful of your fellow skiers/riders and our employees. This isn’t easy for any of us, but we’re stoked to make the most of this winter with you!
SEASON PASS SALES PAUSED Season Pass sales are currently paused. When season pass sales resume, quantities and types will be limited. Prior to resuming sales we will provide an update with more information. Thank you for your patience.

SeniorsSkiing Guide: Holiday Valley

Are there powder days in Western New York? Can Pete Widger yodel?

 

Yes, to both. In fact, septuagenarian Widger, the voice of Holiday Valley’s Snow Phone, will lace his conditions report with his trademark vocals every powder day of the season.

Holiday Valley’s powder comes compliments of Lake Erie’s snow machine, the same lake-effect system that gives Buffalo its arctic reputation.

Holiday Valley, in Ellicottville, Cattaraugus County, averages about 180 inches of snow per season. In addition, the resort’s snowmaking staff is able to cover 95 percent of the resort’s terrain with its 611 snow guns.

Holiday Valley’s peak elevation is 2,250 feet, a rise of 750 feet from its 1,500-foot base elevation.

It boasts 60 trails, served by 13 lifts (including three high-speed quads) over 290 acres. Green trails make up 37 percent of those runs, blue, 25 percent, black, 37 percent and double-black, 2 percent.

For a good warmup, take the Mardi Gras lift for a slide down Candy Cane, a green trail, with options for a blue Crystal Bottom. Or start blue with Independence or even black with Yodeler or Champagne. North Wind upper and lower trails are also accessible from this lift as are a variety of other lift-and-trail combos.

On the facing hillside, Cindy’s Run, accessible by Cindy’s Quad, is a challenging blue. Cindy’s can lead to black options such as Foxfire, Wall Top and the double-black Wall.

It is easy to spend a day at Holiday Valley mixing your trail colors and lifts. Most every skier will find challenges and satisfaction.

Comfy lodge at the bottom. Trails for all abilities at HV. Credit: Craig Melvin

The resort’s beginnings can be traced to the late 1930s when enterprising enthusiasts built a tow from an old truck and built a little warming hut. The operation has moved from slope to slope in the Ellicottville area. The current lodge site was established in the 1960s and the resort has grown from there.

The club atmosphere of those days has endured, said Jane Eshbaugh, director of marketing at Holiday Valley, “Especially in this part of the country, skiing is very social, we see many senior groups skiing together or having coffee or dining.”

“We have so many generations at Holiday Valley. We really market to families, but that includes parents, grandparents and great-grand parents,” Eshbaugh said.

One perk for senior pass holders is the ability to add a grandchild at an additional family rate.  At Holiday Valley, loyalty pays. Skiers 65 to 69 can receive 5 percent of a Classic Pass. But if a senior skier has purchased a Season Pass or Ultimate Pass for the past five years, the discount goes to 25 percent. For those 70-plus, the initial discount is 10 percent and 50 percent for those with pass purchases the past five years.

Holiday Valley gets regular snow dumps from lake-effect storms. Nice coating on trees. Credit: Craig Scott

Holiday Valley’s employment rolls are well-populated with seniors. From office and maintenance to on-slope duties such as Ski Patrol, Ski School Instructors and Safety Patrollers.

Because Holiday Valley lies close to Canada (about an hour from the Canadian border), there are often as many Ontario plates in the parking lot as those from New York. The resort features, Canadian Friendship Week, during which lift tickets and rentals are at par with Canadian cash. It’s hard to ride the lifts on a busy day that week without meeting fellow skiers from, say, Toronto or Niagara Falls.

Lift lines, however, are rather rare at Holiday Valley. The lifts are efficient and only on the busiest days are there people waiting to ride.

Holiday Valley offers a number of lodging and dining options, and nearby Ellicottville is a friendly and hip little Eastern ski town.

The nearest large airport is Buffalo International, about 60 minutes away. Cleveland, Pittsburgh and Rochester are about two to three hours away by car.

CLICK HERE FOR HOLIDAY VALLEY TRAIL MAP

CLICK HERE FOR HOLIDAY VALLEY WEBSITE

 

Report From Chile: The COVID Season

What We Can Learn From The Ski Season In Chile During The Pandemic

Only four ski areas opened in Chile this year, due to the pandemic, all in the last third of the normal season (late August). The country was in the midst of a severe drought when the entire metropolitan region of Santiago shut down in May. An “atmospheric river” arrived late June, and over a period of 10 days it snowed more than it had in a decade. All one could do was look longingly at the webcams and pray the snow would last until restrictions were lifted. In June, the ski area association presented a protocol for opening to the government. At the same time, Chile had one of the worlds highest infection and death rates from the virus, so nobody really believed there would even be a ski season.

La Parva on July 5.  Looking via webcam, not skiing. Credit: Casey Earle

Corralco mid-July. Snow but not open to skiing. Credit: Casey Earle

The quarantine lasted to late July in some of the districts of Santiago and the first ski areas were opened on August 18, specifically El Colorado and La Parva. At the end of August Corralco and Las Araucarias, in southern Chile, opened. Rules were strict and at times confusing. Masks, properly worn, were required, as were gloves, online sales only, two skiers per quad, and no restaurants. The number of tickets sold was limited to the equivalent of an uncrowded day. At times a lift attendant would berate skiers for not spacing enough in the few line-ups that occurred and take your temperature on your wrist.

The police were controlling access to the mountain road and were strict about not letting anyone by that was not from a district that had advanced to the correct stage. This produced line-ups and long waits, which I avoided by going up at 6:30am. Use of second residences was not allowed, weekends were quarantined (closed ski areas), and a curfew was (and still is) in effect.

In order to ski, one had to fill out a fill out a health declaration online, and sometimes show it at the bottom.

With only 20cm having fallen since early July, the conditions for the August 18 opening was a bit disappointing. But a final 20 cm fell on August 26, and what a day it was.

Fortunately, the run maintenance was superb, and we skied the groomers through to mid September, when the lack of new snow was taking its toll and the heat was turned up. La Parva closed on September 25.

Lift line trying not to block the run.Credit: Casey Earle

Most days there were so few people that one could ride and empty lift and ski an empty run.

Few people. Credit: Casey Earle

In early October we set out to Villarrica to ski the volcanos of the south, but promptly went into quarantine and had to sit out the remainder of the season. Corralco was open until October 18.

That we could ski at all was a miracle. I must say, however, that skiing, properly regulated, is probably one of the most socially distanced sports around, but much depends on the individuals respect for the rules.

Pandemic Skiing In Australia

Impossible Or Just Tricky?

Resort skiing in Australia is in the Australian Alps straddling the border between our most populous states, New South Wales and Victoria, with capitals in Sydney and Melbourne.

The season officially opens in early June and closes early October.

Thredbo Supertrail mid-August. Credit: John Harris

NSW’s biggest resorts—Perisher (acquired by Vail Resorts in 2015) and Thredbo (Mountain Collective and Ikon links)—lie in Kosciuszko National Park in the Snowy Mountains. They cater mainly to Sydney’s five million people a six hour drive away.

Victoria has three resorts. Mt Hotham and Falls Creek were also recently acquired by Vail Resorts. Mt Buller is the other. They cater to 5.6 million folk, most of whom live in Melbourne.

This year’s opening was delayed for several weeks in NSW. The National Park closed for the long opening weekend amid all the concerns and regulations surrounding the pandemic back then. Tricky!

June saw a rush on sales of backcountry equipment amid fears the resorts wouldn’t open at all. Gear was in short supply with importation restrictions. Tricky!

Perisher’s restrictions. Credit: John Harris

In early July, just when seasoned skiers expect skiing conditions to be okay, a second wave of coronavirus hit Melbourne, and Victoria went to lockdown. Victoria’s ski resorts closed and remained  closed for the season. State borders shut then so snow sports became limited to NSW and Canberra and impossible for residents from all other states. Nearly 17 million Australians had no access to the resorts this year. Impossible for them!

Perisher and Thredbo in New South Wales opened later in June.

Perisher offered Epic Australia season passes but for the first few weeks everyone including pass holders had to prebook days online to ski . One staffie I spoke to only managed to find three days available during this time due to the limited tickets. The website crashed often with the traffic. He checked every morning, hoping more tickets would come online. Thredbo was similar. Tricky!

My favourite lunch spot at Perisher only available to hotel guests in 2020. Credit: John Harris

Skiers who had booked resort accommodation had no guarantee of getting lift tickets. Communication with Perisher was only possible online. Emailed inquiries yielded an automatic reply promising a reply within days. Tricky!

There were no group ski lessons and no assistance by staff getting on chairlifts. Some restaurants were restricted to hotel guests. It was suggested that skiers bring food and drink in case venues were full. Tricky!

Despite the restrictions, the skiers came. Sydney had a few covid cases and locals were worried they’d bring it down. A trace of virus was detected in Perisher’s sewage and face masks became mandatory in the resort, inside and out. They still are. Tricky!

Thredbo is linked to Mountain Collective and Ikon groups and is an all year resort. Its restrictions were similar to Perisher. This year the resort did not offer season passes, saying they usually had a large proportion of skiers with season passes, and it wouldn’t have been workable. 70 years plus day passes were just $A25 but available days hard to find. Masks were not worn outside. Tricky!

Thredbo closed a week after this picture was taken. Credit: John Harris

Thredbo’s Supertrail closed a week after I took the photo above due to snow melt. As runs became fewer, Thredbo credited the accounts of people who had pre-purchased tickets with a proportion of the cost. The resort closed prematurely two weeks ago.(Editor Note: mid-September). Commendable!

Perisher plans to stay open till the end of the school holidays on October 9. Its rules are unchanged. I have been very impressed with how professionally both resorts have handled difficult and changing circumstances and how co-operative the public has been. Hopefully, your North American winter will run smoothly with fewer changes needed and good powder.

 I visited Perisher on Sunday to see how things were going. Here’s what I found.

Demand remains high at Perisher with a full car park. Credit: John Harris

Most patrons were wearing face covering and happy laughter was everywhere.

Masks were everywhere in the Perisher lodge. Credit: John Harris

Okay, this senior’s tally wasn’t too impressive in the pandemic, one day at Perisher so far, one at Thredbo. But what a wonderful sport. Age hardly matters. You get pulled up the hill, and gravity takes you down. People of widely different ages can relate to each other and be friends. And so much laughter.

2020 skiing down under was tricky but for many of us not impossible.

Ski Canada And Covid

Ski resorts are still trying to figure out what the next season will look like.

We heard from a few Canadian ski area representatives and whatever finally happens, next year your favorite resort won’t look like what you remember from the past.

 Many resorts opened for a revised summer season that several called “a great dress rehearsal” for next winter.

Downtown Banff. Bike rental on Banff Ave. which was closed to traffic this summer for social distancing. Credit: SkiBig3

It involved limits to daily lift ticket totals, spaced tables in restaurants (and a lot of outdoor eating), social distancing in lift lines and yes, restrictions on lifts themselves.

 But the final details for winter, everyone said, are still being determined.

Not so, though, for Air Canada.

Tony Celio of Air Canada had a very specific list:

  • Touch-free checkins, mandatory masks on board, hand sanitizing stations throughout the airports, health questions and temperature checks (top temp is 99.5).
  • In the boarding area, no lining up to board. Everyone stays seated until their group number is called, then boarding is back to front, window to isle.
  • On board, free packs containing hand sanitizer, wipes, mask, gloves, bottle of water, snack and headset are given to each passenger. Crews wear masks and gloves. Everything is sanitized between flights with hospital grade disinfectant and HEPA filters are being used for the cabin air.

Air Canada has this video on its website:

As for resorts, they are not expecting massive crowds since they assume their international visitor counts will be down.

Tamara Melanson of SilverStar said hotel guests have been naturally spaced out because there is a mandatory 24 hour gap between check out and the next check in so rooms can be deep cleaned.

But specifics for winter, she and others admitted, are all still being worked out, though Melanson could speak to what they’re doing about lift lines and lifts now.

Interestingly, this is the busiest year they’ve ever had for cyclists going up the mountain but still, they are limiting tickets to keep people socially spread and keeping people in a single stretched out line to board.

In summer, they have only the six-pack lift and gondola open. And for now, it’s one person (or group of friends) to a gondola and a max of two strangers to a lift. She figures seating on the resort’s quads and the six pack in winter will be similar.

Andre Quenneville, general manager of Mt. Norquay added that some resorts are experimenting with spraying lifts with disinfectant.

Jen Kyles of SkiCan which represents resorts across Canada said,  “People will need more patience.” For instance, they will need to make prior reservations for rentals which will then have timed entries to keep folks spaced. Many resorts, she said, are thinking of shifting dining into their conference facilities where the rooms are larger. And buffets will be gone.

Top of lift, Norquay, this summer. Credit: Mt. Norquay

Resorts like Mt. Norquay and Panorama Mountain Resort, not exactly known for crushing crowds, don’t expect to have problems with spacing on-slope.

Meanwhile this summer, Banff has closed its main downtown corridor to provide more space for people on foot. Restaurants have 50 percent occupancy indoors but also have spaced dining on the street. And while masks are encouraged, they are not required, though that may change.

Quenneville of Norquay said he feels confident his resort will be open for winter and expects the US-Canada border will be open by then. And Steve Paccagnan, CEO of Panorama, referring to shuttles from the Calgary airport, said they would be offering private travel for those who want it along with buses with “safe practices,” meaning spacing people out.

In the end, everyone agrees, it will be a lot of trial and error.

SeniorsSkiing Guide: Jackson Hole—Not For Experts Only

There also are dozens of trails and cirques for the rest of us mere mortals.

Now, that’s a blue cruiser at JH looking delicious. Credit: Jackson Hole

I’ve been skiing here since I was locked into that famous and frustrating  “intermediate plateau” and took a chance on defying Jackson’s reputation for experts only.  Besides, the town sounded like fun, with wooden sidewalks and real cowboys coming into town from the ranches that ring the resort. 

If you’ve never skied trees, this is the place to learn.  The short bursts of glades under the Sweetwater Gondola or Casper chairlift are ideal, because you if you get into trouble, you can bail out to one of the blue or green groomers alongside, or just wave or shout up to a lift rider if your trouble is serious. 

When you get better, head into Moran Woods, in between the Casper or Teton lifts.

I always plan my day to be at the lodge at the bottom of the Casper quad for that mid-morning pit stop, and sometimes for lunch, since it’s always less crowded than the other mid-mountain lodges and restaurants.

The Teton is one of Jackson’s newer lifts, and accesses a network of blue and green cruisers that you can take back non-stop to the base area, down some 3,000 of the resort’s massive 4,129 vertical. The Kemmerer trail off the top is named for Jay Kemmerer, who bought the resort in 1992 and credited with turning it into a world-class destination. 

It’s a fast groomer that links to the Werner cruiser.  That one is named for Buddy Werner, an internationally renowned ski racer and member of the US Olympic ski team, who died trying to outrace an avalanche in the Swiss Alps in 1964. You could do laps here all day. I have.

Werner was the choice of the resort’s original owner to be the first ski school director.  That went instead to Pepi Steigler, who won a gold medal in slalom and a bronze in giant slalom in the 1964 Olympics.  It was the same Olympics in which Jimmy Heuga and Billy Kidd became the first Americans to medal in the slalom, a couple of deep breaths behind Steigler, who ran the Jackson Hole Ski School for more than 40 years before retiring.

But I digress.

Of course, you must take the famous Jackson Hole Tram to the top, and pick your way down Rendezvous Bowl to the groomed trails below. Be sure to do it on a sunny day, unless you want to hear my near-horror story about skiing it in socked in weather.  Jackson Hole often is subject to inversions, when it is bright and sunny at the bottom and socked in up top.  If the tram isn’t busy in the middle of the day, that’s the reason. 

My favorite spot on the mountain is Laramie Bowl, off the Thunder quad. It’s really more a funnel than a bowl, with VW-sized bumps on the right and “regular” bumps on either side of a bail-out groomer.

Jackson Hole is also a great destination for multi-generation winter vacations with the grandkids. The really young ones get to ride to their own dedicated teaching slope in a wagon powered by a snowmobile.  The kids love it, and we grandparents love taking photos of it.

Where you stay in Jackson Hole depends on whether you prefer base area convenience or downtown shopping and restaurants.

JH has prioritized improving the intermediate ski and snowboard experience to give guests a variety of terrain. Here’s a blue blue. Credit: Jackson Hole

Convenience is the Teton Village base area, with hotels, condos and restaurants in all price ranges and amenity levels. Best, I think, are the Four Seasons with heated walkways for no-slip snow-free access, and the Alpenhof, with a true European vibe, one of the first hotels to open when the resort opened in 1965.

Apres ski in the Village centers around the Mangy Moose, named for the dusty taxidermy moose for which it is named. 

Downtown, the premiere place to stay is the Wort Hotel, one of the members of the Historic Hotels of America group, known for its rustic charm and attentive service.

The Blue Lion is known for its elk filets.  Another top dining choice is the Snake River Grill, whose menu identifies the local ranchers and farmers who supplied the lamb, pork or artisanal cheese.

Apres ski downtown means The Cowboy, which features live music and country western dancing in season. This is where I learned to two-step at free Thursday night lessons.  Just keep walking past the saddle-shaped bar stools in the front to the tables dance floor in the back.  The burgers are pretty good here, too.

Locals and any visitors in the know head for The Stagecoach in nearby Wilson, at the base of the Teton Pass, on Sunday nights.  A five-piece band has played here for more than 40 years, including a few of the originals still wielding a banjo or guitar.  Be forewarned that the repertoire is usually sprinkled with a few ditties that could make a sailor blush.

Take an afternoon off the slopes to visit the National Elk Refuge just outside town, where thousands of these majestic creatures spend the winter.  If you time it correctly, you can also visit the National Museum of Wildlife Art on the other side of the road, with its impressive collection of landscape paintings and Remington sculptures.

Jackson Hole is a member of both Ikon Pass and Mountain Collective, neither of which provide discounts for seniors.  If the only place you intend to ski or ride this season is Jackson Hole, the best deal for the 2020/21 season is the Plus Pass, which offers 25 days of lift access for $505.

Click here for Jackson Hole Trail Map

Click here for Jackson Hole Web Cams

Buying A Season Pass In The Covid Year

[Editor Note: This article first appeared in the Cottonwood Heights Journal on May 18, 2020. The situation unfolding in Utah is similar to what is happening in other regions of North America.]

 

Wish the rules for buying a season pass were as clear as the skies over Alta. Credit: Harriet Wallis

A Season Pass Is A Complicated Decision.

Gone are the days of one deadline, one price. This year, season passes are a jigsaw puzzle.

It’s complicated by multi-mountain season passes, narrow canyon road congestion, and the now the virus. Each resort has its own spin on passes. You almost need a PhD and a crystal ball to figure out what’s right for you.

A Roundup Of What To Look For.

Deadlines for the best price. Deadlines are all over the place. Some deadlines are as early as this month (May) while others have been extended. And some resorts haven’t specified a deadline.

Discounts because of virus-shortened season. Some resorts are offering discounts on their 2020-21 passes. But the formula for discount varies from resort to resort. Some resorts have other options, too.

Budget plans. Some resorts let you buy your pass now and pay for it in installments.

Change-your-mind assurance. Some resorts let you buy a pass now and change your mind later if you decide you don’t want to ski next season. Options include pushing your pass forward into the 2021-22 season. Those change-your-mind deadlines vary all over the place.

Blackout dates / no blackouts. Yep, that varies too.

One resort, adult season pass. The plain vanilla, “adult pass at one resort, ski any day you want” has gone into tailspin. Some resorts have replaced it with family deals, midweek only deals, and pack of ticket deals.

Highlights Of Resorts In The Region.

Powder Mountain. A season pass includes supplemental injury insurance should you crash and break a bone. A season pass for seniors 75+ is $40.

Snowbasin. If you had a pass last year, you can choose a 20% discount or partial refund on a 2020-21 pass. Or you can donate the amount to one of several charities.

Brighton. It has the clearest explanation of how the Assurance “what-if-I decide-not-to-ski” plan works. While details vary from resort to resort, Brighton’s Q ad A page gives the best point-by-point explanation so you can absorb it.

Deer Valley. It has the best side-by-side comparison chart for comparing a Deer Valley season pass with an  Ikon pass. It eliminates the mumbo-jumbo. A Deer Valley pass comes with multiple benefits.

Snowbird. Snowbird prices passes for 9 different age ranges and occupations. It also offers valet and preferred parking passes.

Solitude. If you had a pass last year, you’re eligible for discounted season pass for car parking this year. And this year you can register two cars on your parking pass — but you can use the pass for only one car at a time. Solitude also offers a mid-week only adult pass.

Park City Mountain. The Epic pass lets you ski Park City plus a gazillion other mountains around the world. But to take advantage of all that, you can’t possibly be working full time. For some, not working might be a reality this winter.

IMPORTANT: Two resorts haven’t posted prices yet.

Alta is taking a wait-and-see approach. Rather than rushing to grab skiers’ money, it’s being cautious because of the virus. Alta told skiers it will let them know about passes when it has a better look down the road.

Sundance has not posted prices.

SeniorTravel: Yellowstone For Remote Active Adventures

The Oldest National Park Starts Phased Re-Opening This Week. 

Yellowstone’s vast 2.2 million acres holds many opportunities for an active vacation, and there’s plenty of space for isolation.

Located in Wyoming, Montana, and Idaho, Yellowstone National Park is the first national park, named in 1872, and ideal for active seniors who want to explore the great outdoors. The park is about to be gradually opened up this month. Here’s more information on the re-opening plan.

There’s something surreal about being in Yellowstone. Maybe it’s the millions of years of formation that seem to hold tight to its secrets. When you’re in the park at 8,000 feet of elevation, it evokes a serene sense of calm with lush valleys, jagged buttes, and free-flowing waterfalls.

For seniors who love adventure, the park offers a range of recreational opportunities from hiking, biking and horseback riding to kayaking, white water rafting and fishing. One of the most popular sports is wildlife spotting. When you see a line-up of cars along the highway pulled over to the side, you know there’s something to see. Maybe it’s a herd of bison with their babies, an elk, antelope, or mountain goat. Get your camera out and take some pictures. 

See Old Faithful in All its Glory

When Old Faithful will erupt is predicted on the NPS webcam. Place your bets.

The star of Yellowstone is Old Faithful, erupting on schedule every 35 – 120 minutes and shooting as high as 140 feet in the air. This magnificent geyser in all its splendor lasts between 1 minute, 30 seconds, and five minutes. For those fascinated with statistics, there’s even a clock in the lodge to predict the next eruption. For now, check out the webcam at yellowstone.net/webcams/old-faithful.

With more than 1,000 miles of trails, there’s a hike to challenge you and take you out of your comfort zone. There’s a range of activity for all. Check out the 500-plus geysers in the park with their own schedules, paint pots, calderas, and hydrothermal wonders. Fish enthusiasts will discover the largest population of wild cutthroat trout in North America. Don’t miss the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone River with its gorgeous waterfalls that will simply take your breath away.

Lake Yellowstone Hotel: Classic Accommodations with Spectacular Views

Hugging the shores of Yellowstone Lake, the “Lady of the Lake” is a magnificent hotel featuring 158 deluxe rooms, recreating a time of grandeur and elegance. Built in 1891, this historic hotel provides guests with fine dining, a string quartet, and an Inspired by Artist series. The narrow halls, back porch, and Sunroom make you feel like you’re on a cruise ship.

A Range of Accommodations and Dining

Yellowstone offers nine types of lodging from the elegant Lake Yellowstone Hotel to cabins and more rustic lodging for those who prefer something other than a hotel. as a part of the premier Xanterra Travel Collection. Check their website for lodging openings. The Lodges also offer tours and activities guided by Certified Interpretive Guides.

Consider visiting in the shoulder season when crowds are a little thinner. Spring (May – June) welcomes bison and antelope newborns, while bears are out of hibernation. In winter, wolf-watching is popular and the geysers even more spectacular.

Yellowstone will be back this summer.  If you decide to travel, you can get “lost” in its vastness. Talk about getting away from it all.

For group travel and recommendations, check out roadscholar.org, yellowstone vacations.com and www.nps.gov

Yellowstone sits on top a thin part of the earth’s mantel, so hot springs are everywhere, heated by the planet’s core.

Open: South and East entrances in Wyoming, the lower loop of the Grand Loop Road, restrooms, self-service gas stations, trails, and boardwalks in open areas

Closed: Montana entrances, overnight accommodation, full-service dining, commercial tour buses, and ranger programs.

For the most current information, visit www.nps.gov/yell/index.htm.

 

SeniorsSkiingGuide: Seniors Love Sugarloaf

For Many Many Reasons.

Sugarloaf is a big mountain with lots of choices for all levels.

Located in Maine’s western mountains, Sugarloaf is farther away than other New England resorts, with underpopulated weekdays, giving you more room to roam.

It is rugged and unpretentious which draws one of the most loyal following of skiers in New England.

The setting is a lone behemoth, third highest peak in Maine at 4,249 feet.

It is challenging with seriously steep runs, above-treeline snowfields, glades. Experienced skiers make it less likely they will run into you.

It’s a little wild and wooly. Getting here, you are just as apt to pass logging trucks as SUVs.

Temperature inversion is a springtime phenomenon. Credit: Tamsin Venn

As one of the biggest ski areas in New England with a 2,820 foot vertical and 57 miles of trails with minimal traversing, the mountain is vastly entertaining, suiting any mood or ambition, as you wander from one lift to another.

We used to take the kids up there. Sugarloaf also has many easier ways down, but it had been years since we had been been there.

It all came back. You can lap the blacks on the Superquad like Upper Narrow Gauge and Hayburner, or stick to blue King’s Landing. Enjoy the views to the west at the top of Timberline chair then meander down the green Upper Timberline. Stop in at Bullwinkle’s for a hot chocolate. Tote Road is a 3.5-mile green run from summit to base, longest trail on the mountain.

Pole your way over to Spillway with its sweet consistent pitch. Take the Skyline quad. Hike up to Sugarloaf’s famed snowfields, front or back side, double blacks all. In spring corn snow with a good snowpack, they are the best.

Follow Spillway XC cut and pick your challenge. The truly adventurous plunge down Upper Winter’s Way, gnarly, bumped, and ungroomed just like the good old days. Gondi Line, Upper Bubblecuffer, White Nitro, or lower angle Ramdown lead back to the base when too windy up top.

Mountain east, served by the King Pine chair, you access the snowcat-serviced hand-cut Brackett Basin Burnt Mountain glades.

Relax on mostly blue runs off Whiffletree. Take the grandkids under the wood arch to Moose Alley to see Amos the Moose and pals Blueberry the Bear and Pierre the Lumberjack.

Schlep alert: Take the short Skidway chair to the Sugarloaf Superquad.

Sugarloaf can get wind-scoured. Think top of Mt. Katahdin, almost the same height. But when you hit it right, there is no finer place to ski in New England. In mid-March, I dove down the middle of an empty Gondi Line, non-stop, gripping corn snow. The sky was blue. It was an experience I hope to repeat when we all can make a safe return to the mountains.

Check Out

Former French team racer Lionel Hering mans Happy Tunes ski shop. Credit: Tamsin Venn

  •  Expert boot fitting by former French racer Lionel Hering at Happy Tunes!, Valley Crossing.
  • Friendly, daily grooming intel in the snow conditions report.
  • Sugarloaf Inn’s Shipyard Brew Haus’ twofer dinners Tuesdays.
  • Venison, fiddleheads, and fine local dining at One Stanley Avenue, Kingfield.
  • Free same-day Nordic trail access with Alpine ticket at Sugarloaf Outdoor Center, 90 km. 
  • Free Sugarloaf Explorer Shuttle. Wave it down. They’ll stop.
  • Don’t miss the Hotel Herbert, Kingfield, for rooms with antiques and charm

The Tickets

Seniors 65-79, $85,  80-plus free.

For Sugarloaf webcams, click here.

For Sugarloaf trail map, click here. 

For Sugarloaf uphill access policy, click here. 

Senior Small Group Ski Week With Lodging Right On Uncrowded Powder Mountain

Plan Now For Next Winter

Seniors participating in Life Elevated Utah having fun and acting silly for the camera. Credit: Harriet Wallis

Gary and Sandy Nielsen have run Road Scholar programs in Utah for about 20 years. They’re experts at planning and organizing week-long programs including Hopi pottery, dinosaurs and rock hounding in summer—and the very popular senior ski program in winter.

But several years ago as the demand for more senior ski weeks kept growing, Gary and Sandy responded with an idea of their own. They created new, small group ski weeks especially for seniors, and they base the programs at Powder Mountain. It’s ski weeks with all the trimmings.

Gary and Sandy cookin’ up Eggs Benedict for breakfast. Credit: Harriet Wallis

Gary invited me to experience the program. As I entered the little lodge’s great room, the first thing I saw was an inviting table with every beverage a tired skier could want: refreshing lemon water, coffee, tea, cocoa, a selection of wine with nice glasses, and plenty of cold beer in the fridge. Such enormous hospitality! As the skiers came in, they chose a beverage and settled into the sofas to retell the day’s adventures. And that was just the beginning.

When it came time for dinner, we gathered around a beautifully set table and enjoyed huge portions of roast salmon, fresh asparagus, baked potatoes, and a crisp tossed salad. There are seconds! Then came dessert: steaming homemade peach cobbler topped with vanilla ice cream. Gary and Sandy love to cook. Every meal was just as spectacular.

“When Gary and Sandy run a program, I know it’s going to be good,” said Henry, a repeat skier.

About The Programs

Gary explained how the ski weeks work. “Powder Mountain is known as ‘Utah’s Best Kept Secret’ and through our nonprofit organization called Life Elevated Utah,” we have been running week-long ski programs for older skiers between the ages of 60-90+ for the past few years.

“We stay right at the base of the mountain in a comfortable 1980s style lodge. This is a true ski-in, a ski-out experience in which our older skiers simply love. We only have five hotel rooms, each with a private bathroom. The rooms have great views of the slopes looking out from each room’s patio doors.

“Our programs are six days of skiing Monday-Saturday with programs beginning and ending each Sunday. We provide transportation to/from SLC Airport, cover seven nights lodging, prepare three delicious meals a day for our small ski groups in our kitchen in the lodge. We help set up ski lessons, mountain tours, and many other ski amenities,” he said.

“I know they really care about me,” said Kathy, a repeat skier. They make sure every detail is just right. This program has just the right number of people, but not too many. I used to do all the ski trip planning when my family was young, but this is so much better. They take care of everything.”

Life’s Lessons Achieved

Gary was one of five children, and it was a family rule that when you turned eight years old you learned how to cook dinners for the family. The cooking lessons stuck, and along the way he developed a specialty catering business. “Chef” is in his soul.

Travel planning has also been in his soul since he was young, and he’s skilled at it. He has degrees in Recreation Management, specializing in travel and tours, and a degree in Business Management. It all fits together.

Looking To Next Season

This really is a best kept secret. Gary and Sandy don’t have a website. So,  to get information for next year’s Powder Mountain senior ski weeks, email gary@lifeelevatedutah.org

Seniors like to ski with seniors, but finding a program is as difficult as looking for a Yeti. Interestingly, Road Scholar has eliminated all western downhill ski programs for 2021. Just one ski eastern Road Scholar program continues.

Small group of seniors on big Powder Mountain: 8,400 acres with 154 trails. Credit: Harriet Wallis

Topnotch

Topnotch At Stowe: Ski, Relax, Recharge

A Great Spot Close To The Big Mountain.

View the stars from the outdoor heated pool at Topnotch.

As one person said, Stowe, VT, takes its wellness seriously and nowhere is that more apparent than at Topnotch Resort. The 120-acre wooded getaway is a place to recharge and refuel in a calm and soothing environment.

The attractive, minimalist hotel has just 68 rooms, plus two restaurants. From the minute you swing open the large wood front doors, you are swarmed by friendly staff ready to help.

Floor to ceiling windows overlook Mt. Mansfield, which beckons, ski me, ski me, which is easily done. Take the resort’s free shuttle up to the Spruce Peak parking area without the hassle of parking.

Alternative snow activities abound, including sleigh rides. Think grandkids.

Topnotch caters to both rabid outdoor types and those who are on a different pace. If you need a chillax day or have someone in your group who does not ski, Topnotch offers a schedule of daily fitness activities—some are free, some have fees. They range from Pilates to Vinyasa Yoga, from Qui Gong to Chakra Balancing; plus a morning stretch at 8:25 a.m.

You can do as much or as little as you like. No one is judging you.

The five-mile Stowe Recreation Path runs along the river across the road. You can fat bike, Nordic ski, hike, snowshoe, walk your dog (Topnotch has several pet friendly rooms). Rent gear from MountainOps, a high-end retail and rental shop that works with Topnotch and where you can pick up local intel.

SeniorsSkiing readers are also tennis players. Check the courts at Topnotch.

Tennis anyone? You can take daily adult clinics at Topnotch Tennis, with four indoor courts, recently resurfaced and relit, consistently is ranked as one of the top tennis resorts in the U.S.

The piece de resistance, however, is the 35,000-foot spa. You have absolutely no excuse to not be on the slopes the next day due to sore muscles.  A cascading waterfall indoor hot tub hydro-massages aching shoulders, while an indoor pool with a dedicated lap lane lets you stretch out the whole body. A steam room, sauna, and shower will also help melt away any tight spots.    

An outdoor heated pool and hot tub let you swim or soak under the stars.

You may not be interested in the fitness center, after beating yourself to a pulp on Stowe’s Front Four, but if you do, it has a wide selection of cardio and weight equipment and attractive studio. The spa also has 30 treatment rooms. I highly recommend the signature hops massage with Scott, which left me feeling as bendy as the Mom in The Incredibles.  

After the day outdoors, the ravenous will appreciate The Flannel which uses local, seasonal, fresh ingredients from local farmers, Vermont cheesemakers, and culinary artisans, supervised by chef Ryan Lajoie. The Roost, an informal lobby bar, is a popular locals’ après-ski spot with live music weekends and offers more casual fare and a kids’ menu. Topnotch is a place all generations can enjoy.

In spring, rates go down at this four-diamond luxury resort, just in time for Vermont maple sugaring season. Both are sweet deals. Plus Stowe just got three feet of snow.

A New Yorker Discovers New Mexico Resorts

A Veteran Skier Can’t Find Ice On His Visit To Taos, Angel Fire, Ski Santa Fe.

Taos Kachina Peak is at 12,481 where the snow stays cold. Credit: Taos

The past three times I skied here in the East the skiing was good.  That means the trails were all skiable but every run you would encounter different conditions.  Most mornings after a cold night, you will find nice groomed corduroy which had set up overnight due to the cold temperatures.  We have not received much snow but thank God for snow making.  After a run or two the firm corduroy changes to loose large granular pieces. Then after a couple more runs that will change to a fine granulated sugar, again very skiable.  As the day progresses that sugar finds its way to the sides of the trails and the rest of the trail, especially the slightly steeper spots get scrappy and eventually Boiler plate.  Time to go home!

Now once in awhile you will hit a day when it was snowing or had just snowed.  Here in the Northeast this seems to be happening less and less and I am convinced that it is a product of global warming.

As Eastern Skiers we can usually ski any condition as it changes throughout the day and lately that has been the norm.  I still love it but it can get frustrating.

Compare that to skiing out West. West, as in New Mexico. Mountains? You bet.

Here’s what I discovered on a recent trip. The New Mexico ski areas are much higher than the Northeast and as you climb up you get colder and receive more major snowstorms.  Skiing at Taos, Red River and Santa Fe you will be skiing approximately from 9,000 ft. to 12,000 feet, that’s 6,000 feet higher than the tallest mountain in the Northeastern United States which is mount Washington in New Hampshire (6288″). 

The average snowfall in Taos is around 300″ per year of very dry fluffy powder due to the high elevation.    It’s 220″ at Ski Santa Fe, 214″ at Red River. With the higher elevations the temps are lower and the snow sits longer. Compared that to the Eastern ski areas where the elevations are below 4,000 feet.  Whiteface is the highest ski area at 4,650′ with average snowfall of just over 100″. Altitude, acreage, the snow and  weather is all the difference.

In the East we fight icy weather conditions up to 4,000 ft., whereas the higher and drier climate of the Rockies are well above 10,000 feet above sea level.

In the East there are wind chills that are very, very cold, where out West it is sunny during the day with Blue Bird sunny skiers. (Most of the time, it seems.)

Moguls are hard and icy here in the East but in the West they are constantly soft snow. No matter how big the moguls may be they are usually always soft so you actually can be a hero out West while in the East you battle the ice on the downside of almost every one. 

Length of trails at all the New Mexico areas were substantial, open Bowls compared to dense trees of the Eastern trails.  Bigger vertical gets plenty of skiing in the West compared to skiing shorter lifts in the East and more runs. 

Taos has the most expert terrain especially now that you don’t have to hike Kachina peak with 1294 acres 51% expert 25% intermediate and 21% beginner. There was only one main lift that gets you to the numerous other fixed grip lifts on the mountain.

Angel Fire has some two mile runs, and best of all 70-75 seniors pay $29, 75+ pay zero. Credit: Angel Fire

Angel Fire has 560 acres of skiing  with 23% expert 56% intermediate and 21% beginner with  their main Chile Express lift over 2 miles long so all the runs down are very long. Their two main lifts are hi speed and you get plenty of skiing in a day. And Angel Fire loves seniors: 70-74 pay $29 a day, over 75 free. 

SkiSantaFe has super senior (72+) tickets for $0. Thanks guys.

Ski Santa Fe was the smallest in skiable acres with 660 acres 40% expert 40% intermediate and 20% beginner but still had plusses. One of which is that you can stay in Santa Fe and drive to the ski area and enjoy the culture. And seniors 72 plus ski free at this resort. Thanks, Ski Santa Fe.

Bottom Line: New Mexico Ski Resorts enjoy low humidity, consistently low temperatures due to elevation and enough snowfall that ice doesn’t form.  It is consistently packed powder from top to bottom

Alpine Backcountry Touring Primer In Bolton Valley

Three Things to Do And Not To Do While Alpine Backcountry Touring.

Backcountry skiing is different, requires planning and gear. Credit: Bolton Valley

For those who have never tried Alpine Touring, Bolton Valley near Burlington, Vt., offers an intro to backcountry skiing every Saturday morning out of the spacious Sports Center near the main lifts.

That is due to a recent change in Bolton Valley ownership. Three years ago former owner Ralph DesLauriers, his son Evan, and local partners bought back the well-loved ski resort.

Alex describes the required gear. Credit: Tamsin Venn

An avid backcountry enthusiast, Ralph’s other son Adam developed a unique backcountry and split boarding program to fully enjoy the 1,200 acres of terrain here. Ralph’s daughter Lindsay who is president of the organization is another fan.

In Alpine Touring, you skin up the mountain with your heels free on lightweight, Alpine-like equipment then lock in and ski down. It’s called “earning your turns.”

We were lucky to have as our guide Medevac helicopter pilot Alek Jadkowski who was patient and clear with us newbies. Indoors we learned how to secure the toe, adjust the heel lifts for uphill climbing, then lock into downhill mode, and put on skins. We followed Alek uphill to nearby Holden’s Hollow Glades and soon were all whooping it up between the trees in thigh-deep snow having caught our fearless leader’s joyous enthusiasm.

Here are three things Alek recommends when starting out in this fast growing sport.

What Not To Do:

1) Don’t ski alone. It’s possible to injure yourself so you can’t even call for help; you need someone else to do that.

2) Don’t get lost. It doesn’t necessarily require a map or compass. You can use GPS or a map on your phone; how you keep track of your location is up to you. Carry a phone battery booster; take into account you may be out of cell service range.

3) Don’t drop your skins in the snow. They will lose their grip and with it your uphill power. Fold them carefully when removing them. Stash them in your pack.

What To Do:

1) Wear a helmet. Travel uphill with a lightweight beanie but downhill protect your head from possible tree contact. Wear goggles to protect your eyes from tree branches.

2) Know what weather to expect and dress for it. You get hot and sweaty climbing uphill and chilled when you stop to switch gear and ski down. Layer your clothing, carry a backpack so you can shed layers and put them back on. Slow your climb if overheating. Drink plenty of water.

3) Do have fun. Go and ski something you are going to enjoy; find the level that suits you; do something that makes you happy.

Where: Bolton Valley Resort and Mt. Mansfied State Forest. 100 km trail and glade network

Learn: Intro clinic every Saturday, (9:30 to noon). Cost $60 includes two hours of guided skiing but not rental gear. Private guiding and lessons also offered.

Fees: NBU (Nordic/Backcountry/Uphill) day pass $13 for seniors (65 plus). Senior Season pass $149; age 75 plus $79.

Gear: State-of-the-art rentals of Dynafit Alpine Touring ski equipment, $60 a day.

Gimme Shelter: BV has added a warming tent in its backcountry glades.

Getting ready to go Alpine Backcountry with friends. Credit: Tamsin Venn

 

SeniorsSkiing Guide: Historic Dartmouth SkiWay

Big Mountain Fun And Small Mountain Friendly With History All Around.

Corduroy in the morning. Dartmouth Skiway has a mix of twisty narrow and open groomers. Credit: TheSnowWay.com

Dartmouth Skiway in Lyme Center, NH was founded in 1956. After six decades the ski area has recently hired only the fourth director in its history. Mark Adamczyk who was the director of outdoor adventure at the Winter Park Resort in Colorado will replace Doug Holler, who is retiring at the end of this season after 19 years on the job.

The Skiway rock guards the entrance to the big, green lodge. That’s Dartmouth green, BTW. Credit: Roger Lohe

The Skiway as it is known locally is family-friendly and reasonably priced with 20-30 runs of terrain that will serve first timers or challenge skiers and riders of all ages and abilities. One-on-one teaching for beginners through advanced skiing is a tradition at the ski area that includes two mountains, a clean, comfortable lodge, a rental shop, and a food court. Visit the area and you’ll see not only kids learning to ski in a beginner area and older skiers doing snowplow turns on the trails, but also ski racers from Dartmouth College training and clacking through the gates.

The Holt’s Ledge side of the resort has a double chair while there is a quad chair and a conveyer lift on the Winslow side. The McLane Family Lodge is open and airy with plenty of space. The large wooden tables and benches and stone fireplace give the lodge a rustic appeal of skiing in the old days. You’ll see after-school groups at the Skiway during the week, but even on weekends the slopes are uncrowded and the lift lines minimal. Dartmouth Skiway has more than 100 skiable acres including tight off-piste trails and glades for advanced patrons, 968 foot vertical drop, and 16,000 square foot lodge.

Watching the races at the Holt’s Ledge, circa 1960. Credit: Dartmouth.edu

This area is quite historical in the world of skiing and ski racing. More than 100 national and Olympic champions have trained at Dartmouth Skiway. The Dartmouth Skiing Wall of Fame on the first floor of the lodge reveals a Who’s Who of ski legends.

Calling the lift ticket prices at Dartmouth Skiway reasonable is an understatement. Adult midweek lift passes are $33 (weekend $58) and half day prices available for morning or afternoon are available for only $28. Prices are lower for teens and children while senior skiers pay only $27 a day or $22 for a half day, and super seniors age 80 and over ski or ride for free! There are low priced season leases for equipment and packages to learn skiing or riding (with private lessons). The beginner area is $14 all day, and there is a Skiway Special on Monday and Tuesday for $23 during non-holiday periods.

From a personal view, the Skiway was about 15 minutes from my home in Hanover, and much of my family ski lore occurred there. Each day of the week there was a different town after-school ski program. I ran the Ford Sayre snowboard program for a number of years there, hiring Hanover High School kids (including my son and daughter) to teach and chaperone hundreds of younger kids in small groups. On a recent visit to the Skiway following a full day snowstorm, I was greeted by the woman at the ticket window stating, “Some things never change, it’s no surprise seeing you here on a powder day.” Riding on and off trail with my kids at Dartmouth Skiway is a deep-rooted part of my family history and on-snow soul.

Dartmouth Skiway is 15 minutes from I-91 Exit 14. For more information  click here. 603-795-2143.

For a Dartmouth Skiway trail map, click here.

For Dartmouth Skiway web cam, click here.

Skiway has a museum in the lodge reflecting 60+ years of history. Credit: Roger Lohr.