Maplelag cabins in winter

Part of the joy of cross country skiing is the dizzying array of experiences it offers – not simply marvels of changing terrain, views, techniques, or size of trail networks – but also the wide range of associated services.

For example, you can find day and destination areas or places that are both. Some are barebones – not much more than trails and hope-to-God-its-plowed-today parking – while others offer amenities including elegant lodging, fine dining, snowshoeing and fat biking, hot tubs, horseback riding, wine tastings and live music.

I’ve had the delight of visiting a couple of hundred groomed trail systems in North America, each with its own character.

A few have offered skiing only and others have been affiliated with downhill ski resorts, lodges and hotels, guest ranches, public lands agencies including National Parks, communities (including a trail that dips below sea level), golf courses (golf simulators indoors and skate trails outdoors!), ski clubs, real estate projects, four-season resorts, Olympic venues, and one place carved from a mountain and operated by a power company.

In all those many areas, I’ve found Maplelag unique (www.maplelag.com) to defy categorization— maybe “eclectic/entertaining/endearing” comes closest to the truth. All of their activities and architecture are carried off with taste, style, and warmth.

“Maplelag” is a word coined by founders Jim and Mary Richards, roughly translating into “Maple Community,” reflecting their interest in Norway and location in northwestern Minnesota’s sugarbush region. It’s been a beloved magnet for Midwestern skiers for decades, and despite an October 2022 fire that destroyed the lodge that was the activity focus, the resort is recovering nicely.

About an hour northeast of the Fargo, ND airport and 4.5 hours from Minneapolis/St. Paul, Maplelag is located on Little Sugarbush Lake, with prairie lands starting just five miles to the west. The area holds the last dense forest and last cross-country destination east of the Rockies.

It’s a family-owned and operated area, with the 2nd and 3rd generations now running the place. XC skiing here is especially attractive to beginners through intermediates, with emphasis on wide classic trails, although there are also 13 kilometers maintained for skating.

There’s only about 55’ of elevation change in the whole network, which is shared with snowshoers. Jay Richards grooms a total of around 70 kilometers, mostly one-way, with a lot of short routes and connectors. Trail names are often evocative, such as  “Skater’s Waltz” and the ups and downs of “Wavy Gravy.”

Trails are manicured so you can ski with just a few inches of snow. At most Nordic destinations, you can predict what lodging will be, such as log cabins at guest ranches. Maplelag’s rustic ski-in/ski-out accommodations have ranged from a remodeled Finnish sauna to converted (and coveted) cabooses, with stained glass windows in most rooms at the resort.

The resort has a devoted “extended family” of long-time guests, such as 71-year-old Nancy Eisinger from Walker, MN, who with husband Larry has been classic skiing there since the mid- ‘80s. Their kids were so drawn to Maplelag that their daughter, who raced in the Vasaloppet, was married there, while their son was on the Colby College, ME ski team.

Maplelag long-time guests Nancy and Larry Eisinger – Caboose pictured in background

Nancy talks not just about meticulous grooming but also “the magic of Maplelag” – enjoying the serenity, meeting like-minded people, and catching up with the Richards.

Maplelag’s plan is to remodel and enhance cabins, making some kitchens available. They have also remodeled the Brant Cabin as a store and community area for day users and overnight guests. At this time, they are not rebuilding a main lodge.