Drinking Along the Loire Valley
Who says drinking and “riding” don’t go together? They certainly do! We just came back from a week’s bike ride through part of the Loire Valley, drinking and riding. We had six days of easy riding, covering about 20 – 25 miles each day. Landing at Charles de Gaulle Airport in Paris, we took the train to Tours, in the heart of the Loire Valley. After settling in at our modest but comfortable hotel, we went out to explore the “old town” looking for a place to eat and to start tasting the famous Loire Valley wines.
The next day we rented bikes and got underway. The first stop was the small town of Vouvray, where we tasted a selection of white wines, the best being the Sancerre. Testing our legs we rode out to Amboise, tasted the local beer and rode back in the direction of Tours, checking into our first hotel on the road, in the small town of Rochecorbon. This area of France is a very popular tourist area, and for bikers there are bike paths and small low traffic roads all along the river and to the main towns and attractions. Dinner is a thing in France, if you don’t reserve in advance you don’t eat. The few restaurants in Rochcorbon were “complet” that night and we had to take a taxi back to Tours, after the receptionist at our hotel was able to reserve a place for us.
Moving on the next day we pedaled west along the Loire River and then south on quiet country roads through the farmland to Azay le Ridleau, where we stayed at Hotel Val de Loire. The owner/manager recommended a one star Michelin restaurant. We asked the Maitre’d for a Sancerre, but on tasting it we were not very enthusiastic, but the next bottle he brought was very nice. A cool refreshing full bodied white wine from one of the nearby wineries.
The next day we continued through the French countryside to the medieval city of Chinon. After riding down a long hill we walked our bikes along the cobblestone streets to Au Relais St. Maurice, a collection of buildings, dating back to the 13th century, now converted into a fabulous bed and breakfast place. The proprietor Maurice, acquired the property in 2016, spent two years on renovations, making everything “just so.” The next morning, he prepared for us a full course breakfast consisting of just about everything; a selection of local cheeses, crepes, an omelet from fresh eggs, plus orange juice, coffee, hot chocolate, “the works.”
Getting not such an early start after that breakfast, we continued west in the direction Saumur, passing through the quant town of Candice St. Martin, where the Vienne River flows into the Loire. We stopped here to enjoy the view and have a bite to eat consisting of some delicacies from a local traiteur. So fortified, we headed up hill to the Rocheville Winery for a pre-arranged tour and tasting. We tasted six of their wines, each bottle better than the one before, whites, reds and sparkling. We ended the day in Saumur, a non-descript town of 30,000, mostly built around providing services to the vineyards which surround the town.
Turning east in the morning we pedaled to our last B&B in the area, which turned out to be an unexpected experience. Up a hill to the plateau above the Loire we arrived at an estate known as Le Manoir la Rumilette, where we greeted by Adolf and Linda, his congenial wife, a Belgian couple who acquired the place five years ago as a retirement retreat. After showing us around the Manoir, we inquired about a place to eat dinner. They told us the nearest restaurant was about 10 miles away in the town of Langeais. Seeing that all we had were our bicycles, they offered to drive us down and pick us up after dinner. Not wanting to inconvenience them, we invited them to have dinner with us. Taking us to one of their favorite hangouts, we enjoyed some very local concoctions, wine, and moules. The highlight wasn’t the wine or the moules but hearing their story. Adolf was a Belgian entrepreneur who had ventured out to Vietnam in the late 1980’s to establish a factory, which he managed for twenty five years, while his wife, a registered nurse, worked and raised the children back in Belgium. In the end, Adolf sold his factory to his customers acquiring Le Manoir la Rumilette, to enjoy in his retirement.
Again, we enjoyed a hearty French breakfast, got on our bikes, rode down the hill back to Tours, handed in our bikes and got back on the train to Charles de Gaulle Airport for the flight back home. Touring in the Loire Valley was a rare treat. We certainly enjoyed the wine and the easy riding along the village roads through the French countryside. This is one of the premiere tourist areas in France and anyone thinking about visiting there should not hesitate to contact me for further information.
Montana Brown Trout Magic
Mary Gayle Sartwell and fishing guide Dave Curry with the one that didn’t get away. Dave Sartwell photo
My wife and I also love Montana in the summer, returning year after year to fish for the huge brown trout, rainbows, and cutthroats that fill the streams. This past July was no exception.
We spent two weeks fly fishing many of the wonderful rivers that flow down out of the mountains, almost all filled with snowmelt and exceptional fish. One such adventure was on the Clearwater River, located about 90 minutes southeast of the Whitefish Mountain Resort.
It is a beautiful small stream that flows out of the Swan Mountains and runs along Route 83.
We floated the ten-mile section between Seely Lake and Salmon Lake, with our friend and guide of many years, Dylan Curry. It can be a tough run because we have to portage around some log jams and downed trees, but the fishing is so superb that it is worth the effort.
About a half mile downstream, Dylan pulled on the oar and slid the fishing raft sideways so we faced the left bank of the tiny creek. We had just dropped through some very shallow water in this beautiful freestone creek and were approaching a long deep pool where the current had undercut the bank.
The short willow bushes leaned out over the edge, making their branches diving boards for stoneflies.
“Adore the shore,” I muttered to myself as I sent the #6 golden stonefly with the #10 Pat’s Rubber leg dropper in tight to the overhang. With a big left mend to keep the line upstream of the flies, the combination floated easily down into the head of the pool.
The floating stonefly bobbed ever so slightly and I set the hook, knowing these fish slurped in nymphs rather than slashed at them. Feeling the weight shift of a big fish driving toward the bottom, I let the line slide through my fingertips along the cork of the rod, keeping the tip up to absorb the shock.
His golden sides flashed in the sunlight as he shot out from his hiding place and raced across the pool right in front of the raft.
It was a huge brown trout that did not want to come to us. This is what Mary Gayle and I came to Montana to see. I heard the Nikon clicking away as my wife put down her rod, and picked up the camera.
The rod-tip bounced as it absorbed the full weight of this powerful fish. Slowly his runs started to shorten. He was beginning to run out of steam. I wanted to get him to the boat as quickly as possible so he would have enough energy left to recover after his release.
He was about 22 inches long – a really fat, healthy fish. We hopped out of the boat, removed the hook, and set him free. He sat at our feet for a brief minute, finning quietly, his gills pumping oxygen back into his body, before we lowered him gently back into the water.
Then, with a quick thrust of his tail, he shot back upstream toward dark water under the overhanging bank in his home pool. The photos prove this is not a “fish story”.
For more information about fishing the beautiful rivers of central and western Montana, contact the Missoula River Lodge, 2515 Huson Rd., Huson, Montana, 59846, or phone 877-327-7878.
Another great option is to fish for the wondrous cutthroat trout on the south fork of the Flathead River in the Bob Marshall Wilderness Area. Rich’s Montana Guest Ranch, located in Seely Lake, offers horseback wilderness trips of various durations that take you deep into the park for up to ten days. The fishing there is spectacular. Contact them at 406-677-2317.
Jackson Hole Sold to New Owners
After 31 years of ownership, the Kemmerer family is selling the iconic resort to new owners who promise to keep Jackson Hole independent – one of the last world-class destinations which hasn’t been bought out by a multi-resort corporate operator.
The Kemmerers have always said they wanted to keep JMHR (Jackson Hole Mountain Resort) both locally-owned and independent.
The new owners are Teton County residents, longtime members of the resort’s board of directors and close friends of the Kemmerers, Eric Macy and Mike Corbat. Both men have extensive backgrounds in finance and investment banking – Corbat was CEO of Citigroup in New York City before relocating to Teton County.
They, their families and a select group of co-investors are expected to take over by the end of 2023. Sale price has not been disclosed. Nor was anything in the sale announcement about continuing JHMR’s participation in the multi-resort Ikon Pass and the Mountain Collective pass systems other than a phrase in the press release about not anticipating any changes to current business operations.
The Kemmerer family – Jay, Connie and Betty – bought JHMR in 1992, and their passion, dedication and commitment turned the Resort into a world-class destination.
“The time has come to transition ownership of Jackson Hole Mountain Resort. We take great pride in what JHMR has become and what it represents to the Jackson Hole community and the state of Wyoming,” said Jay Kemmerer.
“It is of utmost importance to me that the next ownership maintains the integrity and character of the mountain that we have worked so hard to build over the past three decades. There is no better fit for this ownership transition than Eric and Mike and their families, who share the same vision for the future of JHMR and its importance to our great community. I’m excited and proud to pass along this iconic, family-run ski resort to these two strong Jackson Hole families.”
Reflecting on the Kemmerer Legacy
During over three decades of ownership, the Kemmerers invested over $300 million in capital improvements. Their efforts to improve the resort and the experience for employees, guests and the community will have a lasting impact.
Jay’s vision to make JHMR a world-class resort led to many important milestones, including:
- Replaced or built new every lift at JHMR, with Sublette being the final lift to be replaced in 2024.
- Constructed a new $31 million Aerial Tram in 2008 during the financial crisis.
- Built the Bridger Gondola and the Bridger Center in the winter of 1997/1998
- Helped with the creation of the Teton Village Master Plan, which was approved in 1998.
- Supported formation of the Teton Village Association and the Teton Village Resort District.
- Encouraged establishment of Jackson Hole Air to support direct flights to Jackson, now available from 13 destinations.
- Purchased the Stilson property and subdivided it into Stilson Residences and the Stilson Transit Center.
- Built Sweetwater Gondola in 2017 to service Solitude Station, now regarded as the premiere learning center in the West for the Mountain Sports School.
- Championed Resort leadership in developing the new Mountain Master Plan in 1996.
- In 2019, switched to 100% green energy, making it the largest resort in North America to run on green power.
- Consistently invested in employee housing throughout Teton County.
- In 2021, began managing capacity at JHMR to elevate the guest and employee experience, with many ski areas subsequently following JHMR’s lead.
The Kemmerer family also has a long history of steadfast support in the local Jackson community and the state of Wyoming. They have made significant, ongoing contributions including to St. Teton County Search and Rescue, the Community Foundation of Jackson Hole, Friends of Pathways, Grand Teton National Park Foundation, Teton Science School and the University of Wyoming.
What Comes Next — Continuing a World-Class Legacy
Jay will remain actively involved in JHMR as a part of the new ownership group and as a board and executive committee member, continuing to provide his expertise and insight.
Mike and Eric do not anticipate any changes to current business operations. Having served alongside Jay and Connie as board members, they have had key input into and approval of all current operating and financial plans, which they endorse. They plan to continue to invest in JHMR improvements, employees and the community while maintaining JHMR’s world-class reputation.
Eric Macy: Cultivating the JHMR Legacy
“Mike and I are honored to have the opportunity to carry on the legacy of this world-class ski resort,” said JHMR Board Member and new owner Eric Macy. “We want to thank everyone at JHMR in advance for their support as we begin this next stage and are committed to our ownership for decades. We appreciate all the hardworking employees and members of the Jackson Hole community who have played an integral part in building JHMR into the ski mountain we know and love today. It is our privilege to continue cultivating an authentic resort experience that is treasured by locals and visitors alike. We look forward to many amazing winter and summer seasons to come.”
Eric Macy joined the JHMR board of directors in 2014. His career spans more than 35 years with experience in financing, restructuring, stabilization and growth of private and public companies in various industries. His background includes experience in institutional finance and corporate operations. Eric began his career at New York investment bank Donaldson, Lufkin & Jenrette in 1986, holding multiple roles there until 1991, when he joined Jefferies & Co., an internationally recognized investment banking firm also headquartered in New York. A full-time resident of Jackson, he has founded and operated multiple successful companies since 2007. Married for 33 years, Eric and Dana Macy and their three children proudly call Jackson their home.
Mike Corbat: Building on Tradition
“Jackson Hole Mountain Resort’s legendary runs, couloirs and iconic features have provided the quintessential ski mountain experience for decades. Coupled with an enthusiastic skier base and a dedicated community, JHMR defines what it means to be a best-in-class ski resort. We will work hard to preserve the cherished aspects of the ski mountain and continue building on the mountain’s storied tradition,” said JHMR Board Member and new owner Mike Corbat. “We are excited to partner with the mountain’s exceptional team to continue developing JHMR’s best-in-class guest experience and unique brand.”
Mike Corbat joined the JHMR board of directors in October 2021 after retiring from Citigroup after 38 years where he led as CEO from 2012 to 2021. Mike leveraged Citi’s unique global network to serve its institutional and consumer banking clients with an emphasis on strong execution and exceptional client experience and significantly improved the quality and consistency of Citi’s earnings. He is a longtime Jackson resident and an enthusiastic fly fisherman, golfer and downhill skier. He and his wife, Donna, reside in Wilson and have two married children and three grandchildren.
About Jackson Hole Mountain Resort
Jackson Hole Mountain Resort (JHMR), located in Teton Village, Wyoming, is a values-led, family-owned, iconic mountain destination with a purpose of enriching the lives of its guests, employees and community through authentic and memorable big mountain experiences only found in the Tetons. Jackson Hole famously delivers the finest powder snow with 4,139 continuous vertical feet of legendary terrain and 2,500 acres of the best beginner, intermediate and expert terrain. The neighboring Grand Teton and Yellowstone National Parks, and operating in the Bridger-Teton National Forest, make Jackson Hole an exceptional and unique global destination. With an enduring commitment to the surrounding landscape, wildlife and authentic community character, JHMR strives to live by its values to reduce environmental impact. In doing so, it runs 100% of its operations on green power.
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