Make More Tracks: Top Nordic Centers In The Midwest
Here Are Five At The Top Of The List.
[Editor Note: This article by Pete Wilson first appeared in The Nordic Approach, the site of the Cross Country Ski Area Association.]
Midwest terrain is ideal for cross-country skiing.
Generally speaking, the midwestern states make up an overlooked bit of the country—literally, the fly-over states. And sadly, this wild misjudgment often extends to the world of outdoor activities. It’s easy to think of the old woods of the East and the vast mountains of the West as focal points for things like Nordic skiing; in truth, the Midwest is chock full of world-class country ski terrain and culture. Between the region’s breathtaking plains and dense rolling woods, working fields and forgotten valleys, it offers ample opportunity for amazing winter exploration. Below are some of our favorite Nordic centers in the Midwest, all of which combine a warm plains-state hospitality with unique and visit-worthy trails into your next ski destination.
ABR TRAILS
Tucked on the Western edge of Michigan’s Upper peninsula, almost in Wisconsin, the family owned and operated ABR Trails (Active Backwoods Retreat) takes full advantage of the Lake Superior Snowbelt in which it sits. Over 60 km of expertly groomed trails climb, drop and meander along the nearby Montreal river, reaching the heights of Blueberry Bluffs and the Hautanen Highlands and the lows of Coyote Canyon. In order for every skier to easily find the perfect route, trails are divided into loops that each offer a different level of difficulty. ABR’s professional staff (whose grooming skills are so honed they host clinics on Nordic trail building and grooming) stand ready to set you up with gear, advice, warm beverages, and whatever else you may need to keep exploring their nearly endless terrain.
GIANTS RIDGE
Originally designed as a training facility for Olympic skiers, it is no surprise that Giants Ridge towers today as a pillar of world class skiing. With over sixty kilometers of meticulously maintained trails expanding in broad loops over the hills that stretch out westward from Lakes Wynne and Sabin, memorable skis are guaranteed. Combine their epic terrain with the reliably snowy Northwoods winters, and it is quickly clear why Giant’s Ridge remains such a prized destination. Backed by the indulgent amenities of a large resort, Giant’s has a near endless array of activities, lodgings, and meal options ready to make create a unique ski getaway for every guest.
MAPLELAG RESORT
It is not often you strike upon a resort that places cross country skiing at the heart of its guest experience. Originally a maple sugaring operation, Maplelag has converted their 600 acres to pristine ski terrain, while the various buildings on the property now accommodate upwards of 200 guests. Boasting 64 km of trails flanking the frostily picturesque Little Sugarbush Lake, two onsite saunas, and a half a dozen uniquely comfortable lodging options, this erstwhile outpost updates the best Nordic traditions with Minnesotan hospitality and North American grandeur. The last chunk of forest before the Rockies, Maplelag is well worth a stop on your next trip to the Northern Midwest.
SOLBAKKEN RESORT
Nestled along the north shore of Lake Superior, midway between the winter sport hot spots of Lutsen and Grand Marais, Solbakken Resort’s sprawling, snowy playground awaits skiers, snowmobilers, and fat bikers alike. Consisting of 58 km of their own excellent trails, plus several hundred miles of connected trails this northerly play area promises endless adventure and a bottomless supply of what the Norwegians call Hygge—“well being.” With lodgings that run the gamut from motels to luxurious lakeside cabins, there are comfortable accommodations fit for individual skiers, fun-loving families, and couples looking for a romantic retreat alike.
GOLDEN EAGLE RESORT
Sitting both smack dab on the stunning Flour Lake and alongside the famous Gunflint Trail, Golden Eagle Resort is a well-situated gem buried deep in the wilds of Superior National Forest. The Resort’s real claim to fame, though,is its part ownership of the Central Gunflint Ski Trail System. This behemoth network of over 70 km of excellently groomed trails offers climbs to some of Minnesota’s loftiest peaks, and the spectacular views to match. Golden Eagle also maintains a small lighted loop for skiing after dark—on which, if you’re lucky, you might see the northern lights dancing in the night sky.
How Is It At Park City And Deer Valley?
Visitors To These Destination Resorts Send First Hand Report.
[Editor Note: This article first appeared in The Chronicles of McCloskey, March 1, 2021.]
How is the skiing experience in different areas around the country you might ask? We all have heard about the long lines in Colorado and Tahoe and even locally the lines have been robust. I am thinking that the Pandemic has encouraged people to get outside and also the snowy, cold winter around the Easrt has brought about a renewed enthusiasm for skiing. It has also been a good winter around the country. My friends have reported huge snows in the Pacific Northwest and some longer lines in several other western areas.
Last week my wife and I ventured to Utah at the invitation of some very good friends who live there. They have been careful with social distancing and so have we, so our only unknown was the airport and plane. We were careful but the airports were reasonable and allowed for distancing. Even the planes were sanitized, and we were fortunate to not have anyone in the middle seat. We wore our masks, sanitized the seats and tray tables and also our headrests. All was well and we made our way to ski at Deer Valley, our first stop.
One of the first things we noticed was that Deer Valley was not really that crowded despite what we had heard about neighboring Park City Resort. They limit the lift tickets and since I had an IKON Pass, I was able to ski without a reservation and my wife was able to get a buddy pass at the ticket window each day without issue. In typical Deer Valley protocol, the slopes were impeccably groomed much to my wife’s delight, and the sun shone brightly every day, even though there were cold temperatures . I noticed that the indoor dining was restricted and a reservation system was in place for all the ski lodges. You could get “Grab and Go” meals either by ordering on the Deer Valley App or ordering at the window. Eating outside was encouraged. But there was very little indoor warming encouraged.
In the lift lines, signage was plentiful regarding social distancing and all Deer Valley employees were on alert to instruct anyone who had their face masks down to pull them up. Even on the exit ramps on the chairlifts, there were signs to use your mask when unloading. Instructors had masks on when teaching, and all of the employees had masks for every function in the area.
Main Street in Park City was still pretty crowded and even though there were protocols for social distancing, the amount of people made it so that we did not shop or eat on Main Street. We dined with our friends in their beautiful home and did take out one night.
So, even though there are consistent similarities in Covid protocol in all ski areas this season, the West is doing a good job with the amount of locals skiing and also visitors who now are a little more comfortable traveling. Like the McCloskeys. The atmosphere seems a bit subdued out there as the apres and dining scene are affected by restrictions. You could actually feel it when walking around. Something was definitely different. All bets were off at the No Name Saloon as it seemed to be a haven for the ” cabin fever” crowd. We stayed away for now. I will see what Mammoth Mountain is doing at the end of this month, but if I have the experience that we had in Deer Valley, I will be comfortable and again grateful to be skiing. Thanks for reading.
Moving To Indiana Then Idaho
Part Four: Jan and Judy Find Lots Of Places To Ski.
We returned from Norway in 1957 and headed to Indiana University. We skied Caberfae near Cadillac, MI, a couple of times, but otherwise, our four years at IU were devoted to my studies and having Bloomington’s New Year’s Baby in January 1960. Where and when would we ever start little Erik on skis?
When I graduated in June 1961 we had a second child on the way, and I had a job offer from the University of Florida. Then came a call from Moscow, Idaho. The chair of the Humanities Department wanted to expand offerings in American Studies, and he had contacted the well-known IU program to see whether any newly-minted folklorist was interested.
This was the only job I ever took without a site visit and a personal interview. Everything was done by telephone and letters. The offer came as a telegram. It worked out perfectly: Moscow was a pleasant small town, the university was solid, my colleagues were smart and friendly, and—best of all—there was a nice little ski area just north of town.
The North-South Ski Bowl had a couple of rope tows and a log warming house. Here is a photo of Judy and me with toddler Erik ready to ski. His baby sister Amy, was with a sitter. Yes, I’m still wearing that old Norwegian sweater.
Jan, Judy, Erk, 1962.
Besides our local area, we visited other ski resorts in our region. We skied Mt. Spokane a couple of times, and returning from a meeting in Seattle I skied Snoqualmie Pass. When I gave a lecture for an extension course in Boise I brought my skis and had a day at Brundage Mountain near McCall, a place Judy and I also skied together. By then we had replaced the front clip on our Norwegian skis with first-generation “safety bindings.”
In early 1962 I was surprised by orders to join the US Army and fulfill my ROTC obligation. Even this led to some skiing.
On my way to join my class at Ft. Gordon, Georgia, I visited my parents in Lansing. My dad suggested that we go skiing. But was there time to drive up north? Not a problem. A new little area called Mt. Brighton was on I-96 down towards Detroit. In my dad’s garage I found some gear that fit, and thus I had what turned out to be my last ski day in my home state. Hard to believe that little old Mt. Brighton is now part of the Vail empire.
I was assigned to Fort Monmouth, New Jersey, for a year. Judy and the two kids joined me, and we found a local ski club that met in a neighborhood bar. Their meetings were the last time either of us were carded to buy drinks. We never took a ski trip with the club, but we did get to some eastern ski areas on our own.
Judy’s aunt lived in upstate New York, so we could leave the kids with her and go skiing. Here’s Judy in 1963 at the now-defunct Petersburg Pass. It’s not clear whether she was planning to ski an expert or a novice trail.
Judy checks trail map at Petersburg Pass, 1963
Back in Idaho a major new area opened in the mountains above Sandpoint: Schweitzer Basin, now Schweitzer Mountain. We skied it in January 1964 when Judy was pregnant with our second daughter, Dana, born in Moscow in June. The views from the mountain looking past the frosted trees to Lake Pend Oreille were stunning.
Lake Pend Oreille from Schweitzer.
In spring 1965 opportunity knocked in the form of an offer from the Edwardsville campus of Southern Illinois University. I felt I should not pass up a chance for a promotion to Associate Professor and time off for folklore fieldwork. So back we went to the Midwest with our three little kids, hoping that eventually we would be able to teach them skiing.
To be continued . . .
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