Notes From a Few Days at Palisades
Selfie of author, Marc Liebman, at Shirley Lake
Let’s start with this is a piss poor snow year for Western ski areas. Yet, despite the lack of snow, Palisades was reporting a base of between 22 and 53 inches on the days we were there at the end of January, yet the ski conditions were actually quite good. SnoCountry was reporting that the area was about 80% open, and that was close to reality. What was closed were many, if not most, of the double diamonds.
Palisades, known to us oldsters as Squaw Valley, is a predominantly expert area. One look at the trail map shows why. The majority of the runs off Snow King, KT-22, Headwall Express, and Granite Chief chairlifts are expert runs.
However, you’ll find blue gems off Siberia Express, Gold Coast Express, and Emigrant, and a mix of blues and greens off the Big Blue lift. You can yo-yo off these lifts and will find runs that are delightful to ski several times in a row.
Most of the runs at Palisades are above the tree line and given the temperature and where one was on the mountain, they began to get soft. However, by skiing where there were lots of trees and shade, the conditions were fine. The snow on the runs off Snow King and Shirley Lake didn’t change much other than in the late afternoon when the sun started to go down, and the snow hardened.
More good news. Palisades is an IKON area, and if you are over 80, you ski for free. A quick trip to the ticket office and, depending on how many days you plan to ski at Palisades during the season, you’ll either get day passes or a season pass.
Palisades has spent a lot of money upgrading its lifts, and it shows. Most are quads, or six-holers. But, as a senior skier, the lifts are missing something important – foot rests. Not one lift that I rode had one. Safety bars yes, footrests, no.
If you are driving up to Palisades on a weekend, take advantage of a reserved parking place. It cost $30/day, but it saves you a long walk wearing ski boots. Locker space at the bottom is at a premium although there are a few at the top of the Funitel Gondola.
For me, walking in ski boots is energy-draining. When you need to make a potty stop, enter the Gold Coast Lodge, where you come out from the Funitel Gondola. There are bathrooms just a few steps inside which means not having to go up or down stairs.
If you leave your skis on a rack on the second or the lowest level means the bathrooms are two levels up. I found an elevator, but an employee said it was for use only by the staff.
On Saturday, the lift lines ran between five and 10 minutes, and the IKON app provided useful info on how long the lines were as well as a way to keep track of my grandkids. On Sunday, the lines were noticeably shorter, and by 1, there were none!!!
Hanging Out With Lindsay Vonn
Legendary downhill racer Lindsay Vonn suffered a devastating leg injury during the Milan-Cortina Winter Olympics, trying to duplicate the Gold Medal she won in the 2010 Olympics and a gazillion World Cup medals. She’s a champion – and an inspiration to all of us, on the slopes and off. SeniorsSking wishes her a speedy recovery. In her honor, we are republishing this article from 2023, when Evelyn Kanter got to hang out with Lindsay Vonn. From the archives:
Where to Eat in Salt Lake City
It’s impossible to go hungry or thirsty in Salt Lake City, where the downtown food scene is booming. Here are some tasty destinations for your next visit during ski/snowboard season or after the snow melts. Choices include my personal favorites from many visits, recommendations from the 70+ Ski Club and more from the city’s tourism group, Visit Salt Lake, all where you can eat well in two hours or less, including dessert, if you have room.
Red Iguana
736 W North Temple – Open daily 11 AM – 9 PM and until 10 PM Fri-Sun
Red Iguana is its keeper is a vibrant family-run institution serves up richly complex moles that have developed cult-like devotion among locals. The perpetual line outside isn’t a tourist trap mirage – it’s a gathering of devoted locals and visitors willing to wait for that first heavenly bite of Mole Negro.
- Tip: Reservations are a must, a couple of days ahead. If you can’t get one, head for a spot at the bar, where the full menu is served.
Photo: Visit Utah
Market Street Grill
48 West Market Street – Open for lunch and dinner daily; hours vary daily so check website
This large, bustling restaurant downtown specializes in seafood, including freshly-shucked oysters, salmon, Ahi tuna, which are not local, and Rainbow Trout, which is. West Market Grill also offers seafood salads and soups, and steaks for the occasional carnivore who joins friends at a seafood joint. Groups of a dozen or so can reserve a special section of the restaurant, which is in a landmarked building from 1906.
Café Molise
404 S. West Temple – Open daily for lunch 11:30AM to 3PM, dinner from 5PM.
Also housed in a historic building, the menu here is classic Italian, such as polenta or ravioli with mushrooms. Several of the pastas are house-made, and there’s an excellent wine list, primarily Italian reds and sparkling wines. Save room for tiramisu for dessert.
https://www.caffemolise.com/
The Pie Pizzeria
1320 E 200 S – Open Mon-Sat 11AM to 11PM, Sunday Noon to 10PM
Hidden in a basement near the University of Utah, The Pie is where generations of college students have huddled over massive, cheese-laden pizzas that require serious upper-body strength to lift. The graffiti-covered walls tell stories of late-night study sessions and post-game celebrations, while the Cheese Pull Challenge (an unofficial local sport) continues to claim countless shirt victims.
Feldman’s Deli
2005 East 2700 S | Open Tues. to Sat., 8AM to 8PM.
Step into Feldman’s Deli to be transported from the mountain west to a corner of New York City. This no-frills cafeteria-style temple to Jewish deli tradition that serves up sandwiches so massive they could have their own ZIP code, including piled-high pastrami and corned beef good enough to impress a Manhattan or Brooklyn native. Their knishes and house-made latkes have their own fan club, and locals line up early on weekends to snag them before they’re gone. There’s also a selection of German-style wursts, including delicate Bavarian weisswurst, which is made from veal, not pork.
Yoko Ramen
473 E 300 S – Open for lunch Tues.-Sun., Noon- 3 PM and dinner Tues -Thurs., starting at 4 through as late as 10 PM on weekends.
This isn’t dorm room ramen. Yoko’s steaming bowls feature broths that have simmered for days, house-made noodles with perfect chew, and toppings that transform each bowl into a complete meal for around $15. The tiny space fills quickly on cold evenings when the windows steam up and the scent of pork belly and miso envelops the entire block.
Squatters Pub Brewery
147 W Broadway – Open Mon. – Fri. 11:30 AM – 11 PM, Sat. -Sun. 9 AM – 11 PM
This downtown brewpub is large, loud, and offers an extensive menu of both food, including a variety of burgers, and draft beers brewed in Utah. It’s a solid choice, whether it’s your first plan for dinner or the last place left when there are no reservations or walk-in space to be had anywhere else.
R&R Barbecue
307 W. 600 St., Open Daily 11AM – 10PM
R&R is a no-frills outpost where the bare wooden tables and high-tops don’t compete with the melt-in-your mouth smoked ribs, brisket and chicken. Table setting include a selection of sauces ranging from mild and sweet to call EMS. Sides include traditional BBQ favs such as slaw, hushpuppies and baked beans. Servings are large enough to share, or take the leftovers back to your hotel for tomorrow.
- Tip – This is just one block from the Double Tree Suites hotel where the 70+ Ski Club stays during the annual Ski Safari trip in February, so it’s a good choice if you are too tired to walk far after a day of skiing.
Wanyen
282 W Broadway STE 115 | Open Tues-Thurs, Sun 12 PM – 9 PM, Fri-Sat 12 PM – 10 PM
Wanyen is your new favorite Asian-inspired dessert café, serving thoughtful takes on classic sweets. Their mango sticky rice is beautifully presented with ripe sliced mango and a perfectly chewy scoop of sweet rice. Try new flavors like Midnight Honeycomb or Midnight Hokkaido, their coconut frappe or matcha latte. It’s elegant, comforting, and made to be enjoyed slowly, one bite at a time.
Find more suggestions here for where to eat in Salt Lake City, including breakfast and brunch.
See you on the slopes, or at one of these restaurants. Or both.
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